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Gl1500 carb rebuild

36K views 160 replies 23 participants last post by  TXRLGL1500 
#1 ·
Its been awhile since I last posted. Ol Blue has been parked since last february. The accelerator pump on the carbs I believe are shot. Simply had no funds to affect a repair especially since my Dodge decided to drop second gear very far from my driveway this year.That alone was a 3k repair (diesel truck). Just put doing anything with the bike further and further back. Anyway, getting ready to order parts and wonder if it would be advisable to install the #60 jet(s) out of the later model 1500's to help eliminate the off idle stumble? Any advice would be welcome.
Thanks
David
 
#2 ·
You first need to determine if the service campaign was done and if it was you have other problems and changing the jets from the #55 of the campaign is not advisable. If not done I would go with the Keihin #58 jet.
 
#3 ·
if the recall was performed the dealer performing it was to leave some sort of visible note in a specified area.
This bike has nothing of the sort anywhere. While I have owned it for eight years, have had it apart in a lot of areas EXCEPT for the carburetors. When I bought the bike the P.O. never mentioned it having the stumble. I just about wrecked it against a tree in his driveway when it decided to take off.

I am reluctant to start the rebuild of these units myself but guess I can learn. Just intensely dislike how far I have to take the bike down that far again. Will order the smaller jets when ready.
Thanks
David
 
#4 ·
Resurrecting my question as I am getting ready to tear down the bike to get the carbs off. If I change the jets on this bike to a later jet size, should I change all to match the sizes associated to the later bikes? Meaning as DriverRider indicated a #58 (assuming its the low/idle size and its not the #55) to match the high speed jets to it? Or just keep whats there?
The question may seem convoluted but hopefully you get my drift?

Thanks
David
 
#5 ·
There were at least 3 generations of 1500 carbs and they are calibrated to run with what was designed into them including air bleeds matched to main jets. Changing main jets is not advisable for an off idle stumble and will kill fuel mileage.
 
#9 ·
Yes, they will be stamped with size.
 
#11 ·
My 88 did not have the recall done and had the stumble. I went from the #50 to a #60 and it took care of about 95% of the stumble. I could not find a #55. Do not change the main jet. The #50 low speed jet is what is causing the stumble problem. If you are pulling the carb, get new carb boots and replace the float bowl seals while you are in there. Also a good idea to replace the problem vacuum hose that sits under the carb. You can still get all of these parts from Honda.
 
#12 ·
Thanks Snowmoer! I was just checking those slow jet sizes and you answered my question. I ordered a Randakk's kit and waiting on it now. Its my intent to order that size. Just hit honda parts fiche looking at the sizes. 1990 shows the first year to have the #60.
1988 and 89 had the #50. I will wait until I disassemble the carbs to see what the actual size is. Likely it is #50. No evidence of an
"X" stamped anywhere on the frame in area of the battery box.
 
#13 ·
Took off all Tupperware this afternoon. Now to start the task of keeping all hoses in order taking lots of pics. In the past have always used a stinky smelly carb cleaner...not this time. Have read where several have boiled there carbs out with distilled water to antifreeze. What is the advantage if any to antifreeze?
 
#14 ·
Haven't done any carb work, but hear the vacuum lines can be a nightmare. Thought it might be advantageous to tag the lines as you get ready to take them off, and photograph them with the numbers in place for reassembly reference. I use this product for wiring issues in my business, when the number of wires gets cumbersome. Maybe something along that line ? Same number at each end of each vac line. You can create double digit numbers with 2 strips applied. Might help.

http://www.uline.com/Product/Detail...gclid=CKHX2sqd08oCFYkjgQodX5YNYQ&gclsrc=aw.ds
 
#15 ·
Haven't done any carb work, but hear the vacuum lines can be a nightmare. Thought it might be advantageous to tag the lines as you get ready to take them off, and photograph them with the numbers in place for reassembly reference. I use this product for wiring issues in my business, when the number of wires gets cumbersome. Maybe something along that line ? Same number at each end of each vac line. You can create double digit numbers with 2 strips applied. Might help.

http://www.uline.com/Product/Detail...gclid=CKHX2sqd08oCFYkjgQodX5YNYQ&gclsrc=aw.ds

I use the same exact thing, and have all my working life....
I used to work in Telephone Switch Centers, and you don't dare make a mistake and wire up a 600 pair cable to the wrong 600 pair cable.....

that will cost you your job.
 
#16 ·
BlueWaterHooker, AZgl1800

It was mid-seventies here yesterday so I was motivated even though I have a bad case of bronchitis to start this tear down.
But its stockshow here in Fort Worth so anytime the next few days or so the weather will reverse!!!

Jim Martino's website regarding the carb removal on his wing has been very helpful so far. Hopefully is pics on the carb disassembly will be as hopefully.

Id'ing everything with pics is on the the list but thinking colored tape of some variety. This bike has never has the air cleaner off. Meaning the bottom half of the air cleaner that is attached to the carburetors. Its my first rodeo from there down....as I indicated earlier. The interesting thing I have found is all the hoses are original and are NUMBERED!!!!

The only other item after reassembly will be to re-plumb my bypassed auto shutoff valve. I need to examine the vacuum line to it. I think that may have been the cause of some of my issues from a few years back that led me to bypass it. The hoses have a light dusting of dirt on them typical for the bike age. Will examine each hose after carb removal.

As for cleaning the carbs I do not want to use Chem-tool carb cleaner. While yes it works, its horribly stinky and the odor just clings to everything. SO going to get a crock pot and boil them in distilled water for several hours then blow out with compressed air. Unless someone else has a better idea on cleaning agent. Let me know.
Thanks
David
 
#18 ·
Well, if they're numbered, aren't you a lucky dog. I've heard folks on here referring to hoses by a number, but thought that was the parts identification number, not a number physically on the hose. Hope you can photograph them with all their numbers showing, while in place. An alternative for any other lines/wires you might need to number, would be masking tape, with numbers written on the tape with a Sharpie pen. Good luck. Glad it's not me.....yet :shock:

One other thing, from the guy with probably the least experience in this area :)
If you replace any hoses with sharp bends, they are probably preformed hoses. It might pay to get the OEM replacement for those, as regular stock hose will have a tendency to kink in a sharp turn. And keep in mind these are 'vacuum' hoses, meaning they are subject to 'collapsing' pressure by the vacuum applied. So, structural strength (wall thickness) and rigidity is important to avoid having one restrict under vacuum, especially in a hard turn.
 
#17 ·
I highly suggest you go to an auto parts store, and get the 3M numbered tapes.

they are white, and have black numerals on them, and they are much narrower than a roll of electricians tape.

if you put #5 wire back on the screw with #5 stuck to it, you can't go wrong :rofl:
and they will stick forever, so the next time you drop that wire and say "aw crap", don't matter, it is numbered #5 still yet.
 
#22 ·
John
Do you think it would be a good idea to use marked tape labels???? LOL! I do indeed! I got your drift! One thing I learned long ago do not leave ANYTHING laying where you do not want a wife to come move it!!! 9 times out of 10 they do not know what they moved and when you ask where it went they do not know what you are talking about!!! Things never stay apart for long in my garage (unless parts are on order) as that is exactly what happens. Did not do anything with the carbs today, had a different iron in the fire to take care of and I had to get a 16 inch phillips screwdriver to reach the carb clamps.
Thanks
David
 
#23 ·
Oh, do I ever know about wives moving things.

When I was off on my 30 days NASSIR8 tour, she decided that she knows better than I do how my office should be arranged.

I came back to a "very neat, organized group" and pretty as a picture...
pissed me off no end, and I told her "hey, it is pretty, but it is useless to me"

I can't find most of what I want, still yet today.....
I told her to stay out of here, this is my room, you are not allowed to move anything.

somewhere is a military ammo box that can't be found anywhere.
she claims she never saw it???

funny, it sat in the same place for 3 years, so why isn't it where I put it?
 
#24 ·
John
At the other iron in the fire today I left(LOST) my handy solarforce 500 lumen three mode flashlight I left it in the residence down at our other place. And neither me nor my bro. can find it. I was using it and then set it down somewhere. Both went thru the place three or for times. I know its there but it had decided to hide. Yeah, no wife to blame there! But glad its me. Lately have been a bit bad about that. The bike has all the tupperware stowed on a folding table in the garage while ALL the screws and fasteners are in individual baggies in Trunk on the bike!!

Just went back to Martino's website...looking at the carb tear down pics..you are right...labels, then pics before removal. Found some pics he took I failed to pay much attention too and of course a hose(s) that can only be seen after they are taken out. I may use some new longer hoses in those areas as comments about their location is a pain to reach after the carb is back on and space is pretty limited.
David
 
#25 ·
There is no such thing as "too many" pictures.
When I review them, I see 2 or 3 of the same view, and 2 of the 3 are fuzzy and I delete them.

I use my cellphone, turn the Flashlight function ON, then set the camera to "no flash".

that allows me to Preview what the picture is going to look like,
ie, move away from that bright reflection??

I take a lot of views, just move the camera/phone an inch or two and go around the area I am working on.

When you transfer those pictures to your PC and look at them on a big screen, you are going to see a lot of things that you did NOT even know was there...

things like, "Hey, that hose clamp is loose....",
or "wow! look at that wire, it is frayed and almost broken in two"

you just can't have too many pictures....
the camera sees those minute minor details like a "light blue" versus a blue wire and where it was connected to before you unhooked the two of them...

the little 3M numbered tapes are invaluable for documenting where things go. They are tiny enough to put on almost anything, wrap around the wire twice so it sticks for eternity.
 
#30 ·
I am going to mark the hoses with tape but putting a matching number on the location may have to be the picture with the taped hose as a location. Since I intend to soak the carbs in hot water its possible those will float off. I think I may get a fine point sharpie marker. Its permanent and do not believe the soaking should affect it. Will try a test piece first.

Spiralout: I already have a impact driver. Had to use it to get the air cleaner base off. Will look for the long flatblade. Thanks for the heads up on that. I bought the phillips from Lowes.

Discovered last year a fellow moved in down the street that had been out of the country...I noticed him he came tooling by on an
old VFR Honda Sabre 1000!!! Could not miss him. Gray hair, no helmet. He would turn the corner in front of my house, shut the motor off and coast into his garage. Its an 84 or 85 model. Went down to introduce my self and discovered he had the matching 700cc V4 interceptor in his garage AND a bike I wanted to own in the 70's a 1971 Norton Commando he was getting activated after being in Florida storage for awhile. He had owned it since his twenties!!! He is about my age in mid-sixties....Great to have a neighbor that keeps things as long as I do.
Ok off to work this morning.
David
 
#31 ·
Update:
Slow progress, carb is unburied from the air cleaner housing, only have three hoses left to disconnect (hardest ones) I finally
had to use a regular label maker to create my labels long enough to wrap around the hoses to stick to each end of the label. They will not stick to the hose.

Leaving some hoses in place on the carb as they will come off with the carb as an assembly. Taking plenty of pictures.
The clamps on the isolators to intake manifold.....The right side was reasonably tight....the left side clamp was not even finger tight.... could be vacuum leak??? With the two large hoses the run to the carbs with radiator fluid still connected I did
move the carb around a bit.
Since I still work full time and on my feet most of the day I can only lean over the bike for so long before my back starts giving me fits. Figure I will be able to get the carb off by saturday some time.
 
#32 ·
Finally got the carb off the bike yesterday. Actually had to pry some on it slowly. Then it popped off the rubber isolators.
FWIW the pilots are slotted not the d-shape some have described that came installed on their bikes. One question, HOW in the
heck do you adjust the pilots when you cannot even see them? Mine being a california version of the 1500 has a whole
lot of hoses covering the side of the carb the pilots are on.
Thanks
David
 
#33 ·
You need to do this.

http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums...lot-screw-limiter-cap-work-around-1500-a.html

The way Honda intended for mixture adjustment from front of radiators is pretty much futile due to sighting, plug wire, coil, hoses, forks, fender all being in the way. Much easier when air cleaner removed is to just reach down from the top with fingers and small screwdriver aided by a mirror and good lighting.:)
 
#34 ·
Separated both carbs this evening. Only one hitch. had to drill off one screw head on the slide cover. Then will get an easy out
to remove the threaded shaft. There was some sludge in the bowl and looked like some accumulation in the main jet.
Also the carbs on Martino's website are very different that my 88 model where the main and idle jets are concerned. The idle
jet is in very solid and its going to get replaced but decided will boil the carb up for awhile in distilled water, get it good a hot
then try to back it out. The accelerator pump looked ok, no splits and the slide rubber is clean and what I think is in very good
condition for a 28yr old bike. However I am dreading putting it all back together. I have pictures of everything. Left most all the vacuum hoses together in an assembly and disconnected ONLY at the source from the carb.

The rubberized insulated heat shield over the manifold is very stiff and still have not removed it.
Not going to skip removing it for inspection of the hoses beneath but will do so AFTER I get the carbs all back together in one
piece.

DriverRider: Thanks for the pilot screw limiter mod tip. I will use it. I was looking at them a bit ago and wondering how to get a better range of adjustment.
Thanks
David
 
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