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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, quick question here. Took the oldwing out for a nice 80 mile ride last week, came home, hooked the tender up and thought everything was cool. Two days ago, I went to start it, nothing. No crank and no lights on the dash at all, although an aftermarket USB switch that came installed by the previous wonder fires up (it’s hooked directly to the battery). I’ve checked the main fuse (which I replaced with an inline fuse holder 2 years ago) as well as the fuses under the gas tank shelter. The battery is holding a strong 12.5 volts. Any ideas? Bike sits covered in the driveway when not ridden, no heavy rains or anything. I do notice that the battery requires charging pretty often. I could use some ideas. Thanks!


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Discussion Starter #3
Check battery voltage while pushing starter button, may not stay at 12.5
I’ll try that too and report back. I get absolutely no lights what so ever whenever I turn the key to on and nothing, no click or anything when I press the starter.


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Do you have any tail lights? I'll assume not for now.
Are you sure the repair you made is good on the dogbone fuse? I would really check that out especcially if all the fuses in the fuse box are dead with the key on.
At the ignition switch you must have 12 volts on the red wire at all times. When you turn the key on you must have 12 volts on the black wire..
Check to be sure both ends of both battery cables are tight and clean.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Do you have any tail lights? I'll assume not for now.
Are you sure the repair you made is good on the dogbone fuse? I would really check that out especcially if all the fuses in the fuse box are dead with the key on.
At the ignition switch you must have 12 volts on the red wire at all times. When you turn the key on you must have 12 volts on the black wire..
Check to be sure both ends of both battery cables are tight and clean.
The repair I made on the dogbone fuse was done two years ago and has run effortlessly since then. I’ve made sure that the terminals on the batteries are clean and tight. As stated earlier, there’s an aftermarket USB port that’s run straight to the battery that’s hot and works as it should. The battery is a year old AGM that I’ve had to charge multiple times, maybe it doesn’t have the amps to start it but I get no lights, no dash lights and no sound whatsoever when I tap the starter.


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02 GL1800 w/Auto Pilot
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you need to put a Voltmeter on the battery... and report back what you see
 

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Discussion Starter #7
you need to put a Voltmeter on the battery... and report back what you see
I did that yesterday, holds a strong 12.5v following charging. Is there another way I can test the battery?


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2012 GL1800
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Did you check the voltage with they key on?
Remove the battery and take it to your local auto parts store. They can load test it.
Check the voltage on both sides of the main fuse.
It is possible that the ignition switch is bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Did you check the voltage with they key on?
Remove the battery and take it to your local auto parts store. They can load test it.
Check the voltage on both sides of the main fuse.
It is possible that the ignition switch is bad.
I’ll be sure to give this a try.


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The repair I made on the dogbone fuse was done two years ago and has run effortlessly since then.


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Like the farmer said when his horse died "That's funny, he never did that before." It is important that you do the things the guys ask and not just clear them in your own mind. A USB port probably draws a fraction of an amp while the starter will pull as much as 300 amps or more. You can't assume the battery is good because the USB works or it has 12.5 volts with no load. For the Guys to help you, you have to help them as well. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Like the farmer said when his horse died "That's funny, he never did that before." It is important that you do the things the guys ask and not just clear them in your own mind. A USB port probably draws a fraction of an amp while the starter will pull as much as 300 amps or more. You can't assume the battery is good because the USB works or it has 12.5 volts with no load. For the Guys to help you, you have to help them as well. :)
That’s the plan! I’m gonna fiddle with it more in the coming days. Shifts at the FD have been relentless lately and I haven’t had much time.


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1987 GL1200 Interstate
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The wires on top of the solenoid can heat up and fry the connector. It's not something readily seen without digging into it.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Just got back from auto zone who ran a check on the battery. No faults there they said.


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Discussion Starter #15
The wires on top of the solenoid can heat up and fry the connector. It's not something readily seen without digging into it.
Well well well, we have a front runner. The question now, does the solenoid need to replaced along with the wiring harness and resplice wires into a new connector?




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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Looking now, I see that mine is wired COMPLETELY wrong lol. Off to Autozone for $4 in parts lol.

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1987 GL1200 Interstate
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OEM solenoids are still available from Honda. They are wired correctly and work for a very long time. I'd go back to the stock dog-bone fuse also.

Aftermarket solenoids may, or may not, be wired correctly. Best way to tell if one is right, is to hook it up and see if all of your wiring melts. That's how several here on the forum find out.
 

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Looking now, I see that mine is wired COMPLETELY wrong lol. Off to Autozone for $4 in parts lol.

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Don't buy just any fuse holder, get a good one, best you can find. That may fix things you didn't know were wrong.
 
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