[brherrick]

I have a 06 Goldwing with 77,000 miles. The cruise control has started to not stay engaged under certain conditions: 1) if the cruise control is set and engaged and I accelerate to pass someone, then deaccelerate, the cruise disengages, 2) if the cruise control is set and I go up any hill under the throttle power from the cruise control, when I crest the hill and the bikes starts to throttle back because of the setting on the cruise control, it will again disengage, 3) if I have the cruise control set and I am on relatively flat road, then the road goes down any incline, again it disengages, 4) if I try to set the cruise control while backing off on the throttle or going down any incline it will not engage, 5) if I try to engage the cruise control without a slight increase in the throttle, it will not engage.

I have adjusted the cruise control lag, but that didn't help, and then set it back to specs in the repair manual just to make sure that wasn't part of the issue, but that made no difference either. I also replaced the entire RH handlebar control assembly because in trying to clean out a couple of the sticky switches I broke a tiny wire and could not purchase just one micro switch, so I bought and installed the entire assembly. The cruise control wasn't working properly before or after the replacement. I replaced the bushing for the clutch, but that didn't help. I installed a used reverse/cruise control unit from Ebay but that didn't work, so then put the original back on.

While riding I have tried pushing the clutch lever forward, but that makes no difference. I have also pushed the hand brake lever forward, but that makes no difference. I have adjusted the foot brake (disengagement switch for cruise control) and have also tried holding the lever up with my foot while riding, but no difference. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

 

[DaveO430]

You have covered almost everything except the throttle switch. Is there some slack in the throttle cables?

 

[brherrick]

You have covered almost everything except the throttle switch. Is there some slack in the throttle cables?

Can you tell me how much slack in the throttle cable there needs to be? I’m thinking that I don’t have any at all, but I’m not sure, and how do you check that?

 

[DaveO430]

You should be able to move the grip back & forth just a little with no resistance.

 

[cihilb]

1/8 to 1/4 inch movement is about normal.

 

[brherrick]

1/8 to 1/4 inch movement is about normal.

Thanks for your replies, it didn’t have any slack so I did adjust it to have about 1/4”. The weather let me take a ride today and unfortunately the problem still is there. Any chance it could be the actuator?

 

[DaveO430]

Thanks for your replies, it didn’t have any slack so I did adjust it to have about 1/4”. The weather let me take a ride today and unfortunately the problem still is there. Any chance it could be the actuator?

Not very likely. It could be the control unit though.

 

[brherrick]

Not very likely. It could be the control unit though.

I replaced the control unit (with a used unit from EBay), and I still had the exact same issue. So I took it back off and reinstalled the existing unit. Obviously can’t guarantee that the used unit was not bad, but I wouldn’t think it would have identical issues if so, but I could be wrong.

 

[RambozoClown]

Based on your initial description, it sounds like the times when it disengages are when there is substantial throttle travel by the actuator. If it is dirty and gummed up inside, it could be tripping some over current sensor. Is the throttle nice and free? Also can the actual throttle switches become tripped by the actuator if something is hanging up? If you have a multimeter that does data logging you can check the various switches while out on a test ride.

 

[gumbyredd]

My first knee jerk thought was the brass bushing, but I see that you have replaced it. One time when replacing that bushing I got the rod in backwards that goes from bushing to clutch master cylider. Did not work too well that way.
gumbyredd

 

[DaveO430]

I replaced the control unit (with a used unit from EBay), and I still had the exact same issue. So I took it back off and reinstalled the existing unit. Obviously can’t guarantee that the used unit was not bad, but I wouldn’t think it would have identical issues if so, but I could be wrong.

I have never heard of a bad one, it was just the best guess I had. It's never been anything but a cancel switch problem on an 1800.

 

[Bike...and Dennis]

Since it only seems to happen when the bike has some decel force, or downhill direction, could there be a loose brake light switch maybe that trips when it is rocked forward? Or maybe just out of adjustment real close to the trip point...?

 

[cihilb]

Very possible. I know I had to readjust mine after the brake recall was done. Didn't take much movement of the brake pedal to cancel the cruise. Even hitting a bump in the road would cancel it. Of course living in Western PA doesn't help. all the roads are bumpy!

 

[brherrick]

Very possible. I know I had to readjust mine after the brake recall was done. Didn't take much movement of the brake pedal to cancel the cruise. Even hitting a bump in the road would cancel it. Of course living in Western PA doesn't help. all the roads are bumpy!

I did adjust mine as well, but it didn’t solve the issue.

 

[Fenton.Dale]

Try this
To get to the adjustment, you have to take the top shelter off. You loosen the jam nut, then rotate the adjusting nut so that it moves farther down the threaded rod, in effect lengthening the cable. The idea is that with the cruise disengaged and the engine at idle, you want the cruise cable adjusted so that it almost starts rotating the throttle. The best way to do it is to rotate the adjusting nut with the engine idling until the engine starts to speed up, then rotate it back about 3/4 turn until the engine returns to idle. Tighten the jam nut at this point to hold the adjustment in place.

 

[DaveO430]

Try this
To get to the adjustment, you have to take the top shelter off. You loosen the jam nut, then rotate the adjusting nut so that it moves farther down the threaded rod, in effect lengthening the cable. The idea is that with the cruise disengaged and the engine at idle, you want the cruise cable adjusted so that it almost starts rotating the throttle. The best way to do it is to rotate the adjusting nut with the engine idling until the engine starts to speed up, then rotate it back about 3/4 turn until the engine returns to idle. Tighten the jam nut at this point to hold the adjustment in place.

That will fix a cruise lag issue but will not fix a cancelling issue.