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I have a 4-way flasher (emergency flashers) on my 07' GL1800 that every time I use it, the button sticks in and I can not get it to release once I'm done with it. This happened after a funeral procession of Goldwings (on a cold day) and someone else had the same problem. Anyone have a solution?
 

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yes the solution is to take apart the switch assembly, clean and lube the switch. there is a pictoral tutorial about how to do it. but i cant find it. if you wanna try your luck search for it, i think it was also under a post of cruise control which is the same kind of switch. or wait while someone post it. anyway if you got the skills go for it and clean the switch. not a hard thing to do just be careful cuz there are a couple of small to watch for.
 

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Sometimes you can take something like flat wooden stick or a flat piece of plastic, something that will not scratch the button and push the switch in hard and slip the stick off the side of the button and let it snap out, may have to do that a few times, sometimes it works and the button will snap back out. Long term yes you will have to take it apart and clean it and use a good silicone lube in the switch and use it sparingly just a little will do, this is one case where if a little is good more is not better. But sitting beside the road with the flashers going the snap trick sometimes works, rather than pulling the fuse and losing signal lights too.

Kit
 

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Didn't say what type of lub was used, or did I miss that?
 

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Something like this will work, you can get it at any electrical supply house. Some applications have it in a pressurized can like whipped cream.
Dielectric Silicone Grease Kit
 

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just for the record, when i cleaned mine i used bearing grease (lol, the only thing i had around) and its still working like a brand new switch, its been around 11 months since...
 

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Most likely will never hurt anything, it is just that the idea behind die-electric grease is it will not conduct current, and prevents any type of short circuit or arcing across switch contacts due to the grease providing a current path.

Does bearing lube conduct current? Heck if I know, but that is the reasoning behind it and silicone will stay soft and flexible longer and not dry and harden.

Kit
 

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Actually this is a 07' GL1800 which has the 4-way button on the left side below the left side glove box and down by the Preload button. The one that the website shows is from an older model. I'll read further and see what others are saying as well.
 

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Pete Id take the switch apart & clean the connection parts with some w-d 40 & see if that helps on my gl1500 several of the switches when it got cooler outside have stuck until it warmed up & the wd-40 really helps !
 

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Does the same fixapply if the flashers will NOT stay on? My flashers work when I hold the button in, but as soon as I let go the switch pops back out and they stop flashing.

Can it be fixed or is it a new switch needed?
 

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Yes same deal. Do you need a new switch or is the internal mechanism and slider broken, or is the grease just holding the slider from dropping into place? You would have to take it apart to know for sure.

Everything electrically is working, that is proven just by holding in the switch to make contact , when you release it it is not staying locked into place, so it is the actual physical part of the switch, not the electrical.

Kit
 

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Ok, switch hasbeen removed, cleaned silicone greased and put back together.



It now works perfectly.:) Things that were a bit tricky were that pesky spring, (nearly lost it twice) and relocating the black section of the switch (the bit with the 4 cables attached.)

I found that locating one side into the plastic tabs was causing the slider metal contact rails to displace the spring loaded contacts. This meant that the switch would not move at all when assembled.

After a few moments reflection, I worked out that if placed parallel above the receiver with alll 4 lugs lined up, a solid downward push located all lugs at the same time.

The secret to successfully cleaning the switch is the small rod and the rod receiver on the underside of the large part of the switch body. If you are careful you can totally remove the rod and the spring plate it sits on. Clean thoroughly or you will not succeed.

Pay particular attention to the bit on the underside of the plastic slider that this rod locates into. This is actually a complex piece of moulding, not as I first thought, just a locating hole. The rod needs to slide freely through this moulding for the click on and off mechanism to be effective.

Next job for tomorrow is to fit an accessory outlet into the left hand glove box so I can charge my Ipod on the move. Should be easy enough.;)
 

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chrisatgoldwing wrote:
Ok, switch hasbeen removed, cleaned silicone greased and put back together.



It now works perfectly.:) Things that were a bit tricky were that pesky spring, (nearly lost it twice) and relocating the black section of the switch (the bit with the 4 cables attached.)

I found that locating one side into the plastic tabs was causing the slider metal contact rails to displace the spring loaded contacts. This meant that the switch would not move at all when assembled.

After a few moments reflection, I worked out that if placed parallel above the receiver with alll 4 lugs lined up, a solid downward push located all lugs at the same time.

The secret to successfully cleaning the switch is the small rod and the rod receiver on the underside of the large part of the switch body. If you are careful you can totally remove the rod and the spring plate it sits on. Clean thoroughly or you will not succeed.

Pay particular attention to the bit on the underside of the plastic slider that this rod locates into. This is actually a complex piece of moulding, not as I first thought, just a locating hole. The rod needs to slide freely through this moulding for the click on and off mechanism to be effective.

Next job for tomorrow is to fit an accessory outlet into the left hand glove box so I can charge my Ipod on the move. Should be easy enough.;)
Yep the aux plug in is an easy one, under the left pocket in the black boot are two connectors, you want the red one. If you have the aux socket with the the pigtail with the plug it makes it very easy, just plug it in.

Kit
 
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