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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I and trying to figure out what stops the brake pedal from rising too high when the brakes are not applied. The previous owner devised a clamp to hold it down. He said without the clamp the pedal is way too high, something broke I guess. I looked at every angle and could see no type of stop. Pulling my hair out and really don't that much to spare.
 

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Bob Cassel
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okay, I just went and checked mine out and the brake pedal is connected to the rod that goes into the rear master cylinder. It is held directly to that rod with a pin and clevis. The pedal the pivots on a point that has a spring around it to provide return when the brake is depressed.

The return distance of the pedal is limited by the extent that t he master cylinder moves. Since the master cylinder has a limited travel, the brake pedal cannot pivot up any higher than the master cylinder piston can travel inside of it.
 

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If I remember correctly the brake pedal goes on a splined shaft and it might be installed on the wrong splines. You may be able to remove it and rotate it down 1 spline and reinstall it.
 

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The retainer clip could have came out of the groove in the master cylinder or it may just need to be adjusted by loosening the lock nut on the MC push rod and turning the rod farther into the clevis.
 

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If I remember correctly the brake pedal goes on a splined shaft and it might be installed on the wrong splines. You may be able to remove it and rotate it down 1 spline and reinstall it.

Not on 1100s.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The P.O. said whatever happened, happened all at once. I looked again and the clevis and adjusting rod looks fine. The rod going into the master cylinder goes into a rubber boot. There must be something broken that is hidden by the boot. Not alot of room in there, not even sure I can pull the master cylinder out without removing the gas tank. The brakes work fine. Might have to live with it. It just bothers me because the rest of the bike is perfect. Thanks for all the replies guys.:bow:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The retainer clip could have came out of the groove in the master cylinder or it may just need to be adjusted by loosening the lock nut on the MC push rod and turning the rod farther into the clevis.
Dave is the retainer clip hidden by the rubber boot on the master cylinder?
 

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The P.O. said whatever happened, happened all at once. I looked again and the clevis and adjusting rod looks fine. The rod going into the master cylinder goes into a rubber boot. There must be something broken that is hidden by the boot. Not alot of room in there, not even sure I can pull the master cylinder out without removing the gas tank. The brakes work fine. Might have to live with it. It just bothers me because the rest of the bike is perfect. Thanks for all the replies guys.:bow:
Yes you can remove the MC without pulling the tank, pretty easy to do.

Dave is the retainer clip hidden by the rubber boot on the master cylinder?
Yes it is, as you can see in the diagram. The problem may be that the housing has corroded away and the clip will not ever hold.
 

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Junior Grue
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Yes it is, as you can see in the diagram. The problem may be that the housing has corroded away and the clip will not ever hold.
Yes I was a disbeliever until you set me straight.
The 1200 diagram in the parts fiche shows the snap ring going in before the push rod which is incorrect.:sadguy:
 

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To lower the petal you remove the pin from item 16, loosen lock nut 22 and raise the lock nut and item 16 emough to get the pedal to your desired level.

Item 15 is a snap ring that holds the piston in the master cylinder. If it is not longer properly seated then the pedal would be raised. It also represents an EXTREME DANGER. If the piston gets far enough out of the master cylinder than all the brake fluid will leak out and you'll have no rear brakes.

Hope this helps.
 

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To lower the petal you remove the pin from item 16, loosen lock nut 22 and raise the lock nut and item 16 emough to get the pedal to your desired level.



Hope this helps.
No need to remove the pin, just loosen the lock nut and turn the rod.
 

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I'm not so sure the adjustment is for setting the pedal height, as it is for pedal freeplay?
The book CALLS it a pedal adjustment and then cautions about brake drag. Symntecs maybe? I guess the important thing is to have enough travel to operate, without preloaded pressure on the master cylinder.
 

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I'm not so sure the adjustment is for setting the pedal height, as it is for pedal freeplay?
The book CALLS it a pedal adjustment and then cautions about brake drag. Symntecs maybe? I guess the important thing is to have enough travel to operate, without preloaded pressure on the master cylinder.
The only stop for the pedal is the master cylinder push rod. It will go way, way up without the rod connected. There is no free play adjustment and no way to get brake drag unless something else stops it upward movement.
 

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The only stop for the pedal is the master cylinder push rod. It will go way, way up without the rod connected. There is no free play adjustment and no way to get brake drag unless something else stops it upward movement.
DOH! I keep forgetting the pedal "pivot" reverses force applied on the master cylinder rod. The spring on the pedal prevents the rod from exerting force on the master cylinder plunger.
 

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Junior Grue
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I did discus/argue this with Dave based on experience with other bikes that have a pedal stop and floating push rod and it turns out he was correct.

Of course if the rod is lengthened to the point were the petal's upward movement is stopped by the foot peg then any farther lengthening will cause the piston in the master cylinder to move in and perhaps cover the bleed back port.
I'm unsure if the rod can be lengthened that much but it could account for the warning in the manual about brake drag.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Success!

OK, I tore everything apart, and the circlip/snap-ring was not seated in it's groove. There was so much crud in there that at first I couldn't even see the groove. Cleaned everything up and put everything back together. I wasn't real happy with the fit, it seems the groove is a bit shallow to get a real good grip on the snap-ring. I will have to see if it pops out in the future. If it does I will machine the groove deeper and use a little bigger snap-ring, or drill some small holes through the housing and pin it with some small roll-pins. The spec for the adjustment calls for a 7mm difference between the footrest and the pedal height. This seemed a little wonky to me, so I adjusted the push-rod till I had a tiny bit of free travel in the pedal. The old fluid was really nasty, hadn't been changed in a while for sure. Thanks again for all the helpful posts guys. :bow:
Jeff
 

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I did discus/argue this with Dave based on experience with other bikes that have a pedal stop and floating push rod and it turns out he was correct.

Of course if the rod is lengthened to the point were the petal's upward movement is stopped by the foot peg then any farther lengthening will cause the piston in the master cylinder to move in and perhaps cover the bleed back port.
I'm unsure if the rod can be lengthened that much but it could account for the warning in the manual about brake drag.

Believe me it won't, the 1100 brake pedal will rotate almost straight up. That is what you do to get the pedal off.
 

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Junior Grue
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Believe me it won't, the 1100 brake pedal will rotate almost straight up. That is what you do to get the pedal off.
I see, the 1100 pedal goes over the foot peg whereas the 1200 pedal goes under.
 
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