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Ok guys, I need some tech info on a 1200 carb. I need to know where the idle mixture/pilot screws are, and I need to know how to re-adjust the fuel mixture once I put the idle screws back in after I clean the idle passages. Was told that that was the most likely problem with the carbs on my bike....so I'm going to remove the screws and clean the passages as I was advised to do. Just have to figure out WHERE those are, and how to re-adjust the fuel mixture after I clean them and put the screws back in. I'm pretty certain that the engine is running too lean, as the pipes got cherry red the other morning when I let it warm up with the choke on. I've already checked for vacuum leaks, and can't find any. Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated....
 

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Have you removed the carbs from the engine?It sounds like the idle circuit is plugged and a thorough cleaning is in order.You could also run some seafoam through it if the carbs are still on the engine and that may clear it up.
 

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The pilot screws are near the float bowl, just above it. If the soft plug have been drill out you should see them. Theplugs in the carbs you can see in the open on eachsideare facing to the rear. If they are not drilled out you should see the soft plug still in the opening. You will have to drop the lower plastic's to get to the front carbs under the fairings. Those soft plugs are facing forward on the carbs.

Remove the soft plugs by drilling a small hole in the center. Then take a sheet metal screw and screw it into the hole. Take a pair of plyers and work the soft plugs out. Now you can get to the pilot screws.



I would count the number of turns in and seat the pilot needle before removing for cleaning. After cleaning seat the pilot needle and turn the pilot needle back out to the turns you counted before. This would be a good start point to tune them.



The pilot scews are mount left and right, them do not stick straight out where you can see them.

Left side of the bike looking at the carbs the front pilot screw will be on the left front side of the carb facing forward. Rear carbs it will be on the right side of carb facing to the rear. Rev. for the right side but located the same way.



Kurt
 

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Ok, I know the screws u are talking about. Now, can someone tell me how to go about re-adjusting them? I know they are not right at the moment, as the bike is running WAY too lean at idle...to the point where it will idle but has NO power for take off at all. Once u get it ABOVE idle with some actual fuel, it will take off and run great...but I have to rev it several times to get it to take off, and it makes me look really stupid....especially when it stalls and I have to stop, put it in neutral, then restart it and try to take off again. And FORGET trying to take off on any type of incline...that's not happening! So, I need to know how to adjust the fuel mixture once I clean the passages. Moon, this bike recently had the carbs rebuilt (well, they were done by a "Honda tech" last year, then the bike sat up all winter. Its a 1984 model. Need to know how to set the fuel mixture properly once I clean the passages, as I'm not familiar with doing this on an engine with 4 carbs. 1 carb (regardless of number of barrels) on an engine, I can do. This has to be a bit different?
 

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domscorpiorlg wrote:
Ok, I know the screws u are talking about. Now, can someone tell me how to go about re-adjusting them? I know they are not right at the moment, as the bike is running WAY too lean at idle...to the point where it will idle but has NO power for take off at all. Once u get it ABOVE idle with some actual fuel, it will take off and run great...but I have to rev it several times to get it to take off, and it makes me look really stupid....especially when it stalls and I have to stop, put it in neutral, then restart it and try to take off again. And FORGET trying to take off on any type of incline...that's not happening! So, I need to know how to adjust the fuel mixture once I clean the passages. Moon, this bike recently had the carbs rebuilt (well, they were done by a "Honda tech" last year, then the bike sat up all winter. Its a 1984 model. Need to know how to set the fuel mixture properly once I clean the passages, as I'm not familiar with doing this on an engine with 4 carbs. 1 carb (regardless of number of barrels) on an engine, I can do. This has to be a bit different?

Each pilot screw on each carb should beadjusted to the same amount of turns. This is the reason I said to turn each of them in until seated and count the turns going in.



After you clean them seat the pilot screw on each carb, then turn each pilot screw on each carb 2 full turns counter clockwise. This will fatten the idle curcuit. Clock wise leans it out. If still to lean on the idle curcuit turn counter clock wise to fatten it up.



Needless to say I would op. for a carb sync. when you get done setting and cleaning the pilots. Probly has not been done for quit some time.



Kurt
 

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Discussion Starter #6
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Ok, if I'm understanding you correctly...running the screws all the way in leans the mixture out? Makes me wonder if the passages are completely occluded, or if the screws are still run all the way in? Going to remove them when I get back home to clean the passages with carb cleaner. I was told to spray carb cleaner into the passages, then blow them out with compressed air. Do I need regulate the air pressure?
 

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domscorpiorlg wrote:
Ok, if I'm understanding you correctly...running the screws all the way in leans the mixture out? Makes me wonder if the passages are completely occluded, or if the screws are still run all the way in? Going to remove them when I get back home to clean the passages with carb cleaner. I was told to spray carb cleaner into the passages, then blow them out with compressed air. Do I need regulate the air pressure?
Ok, as I said before. Before you remove them run them in all the way and count the turns in on each carb pilot set screw.. This will tell you where they are set before you remove them weather there set right or wrong. Then remove them. Yes you can clean them with carb cleaner and then blow them out. Pressure is no rpoblem.



THEN replace the pilot srcews. Turn them in until seated. THEN back them out 2 full turns, this is a good starting point to go leaner or richer.



After you set the pilot screws at 2 turns out try riding the bike. If it still stumbles off the start try fatting (counter clock wise)the idle circuit.



Kurt
 

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Discussion Starter #8
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Ok Kurt, just wanted to make sure I was understanding you correctly. Sorry, not meaning to be dense. I know that these bikes are very meticulous about the carbs and stuff...FAR more so than cars are. I just want to make sure that I do it right, u know?
 

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No problem.

Before you shoot carb cleaner into the pilot path way make sure the rubber "O" ring seal is on the pilot needle. If not make sure you dig it out of the path way....the don't like carb cleaner!



Kurt
 

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Discussion Starter #10
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Ok, will do! Not sure how I'll dig it out of there, those passages are very small!!!
 

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Something small round and sharp. The "O" rings should come out with the pilot needles with no problem.



Kurt
 

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IIRC, there is the pilot screw, then a spring, then a flat washer, then the O Ring. When I did a carb rebuild in my 1200 this last Spring, I used a piece if fine wire & bent a micro hook on the end to get the O Rings out. I would have to say that if you are trying to do this on the bike, it is going to be tough. Just make sure that you have all the parts out BEFORE you blast it with air.
 

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When stalled in traffic, I just start the engine in gear. Won't hurt the starter. No need to iritate the traffic behind you any more than necessary and keeps you from looking any more like a clutz than you already do.
Bobby
 

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You haven't said what year and model you're dealing with. That makes a difference. I agree with William. If you do have a carb problem, take the rack off the bike.

What you are talking about doing probably won't help and may even cause more problems.

Anyway, if you get a manual, it will tell you how to correctly do an idle dropand the correct number of turns for your year of carbs. And you really should check the year and modelof the carbs to make sure no one has changed them.
 

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moonhead wrote:
In post #4 he states that it is indeed a 1984 that makes it a 1200.
What Dennis was referring to was the carburetors as they may have been changed by a previous owner.

If the carburetors are 84 then the initial pilot screw adjustment is 3 1/2 turns out 49 state or 3 California.
 

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Sorry, I missed the year referrence in post 4. Still, I believe you should confirm the carbs are for an '84 and do a proper cleaning.

Seems like it would take more than a clogged idle circuit to make the bike run hotenough toturn the exhaust headers red.
 

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Sounds like you have a clogged idle jet problem more then the mixture screws. I agree that you should pull the carbs and do a though cleaning. I did mine this spring, and it's not as bad as it looks.
I think Dennis could pull them with his eyes closed in a dark garage ! :ROFL::ROFL:

Remove the bowls, remove and clean both idle and the main jets ,floats, float valves and seats, remove the slides and needles and clean all the passages ( i used spray carb cleaner ).You may want to check the float levels, i reset mine because the guy i paid to do it screwed them up.

A good carb. sync. is a must when it's all back together, it made a major improvement to mine as the final touch.

Jim
 

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Like others have written, remove the carbs for a cleaning.

I would never use compressed air in a carburetor that was assembled. Just not good practice.

JD
 
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