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Hi, I'm new to this fine forum and by reading the archives and entries below I see there are some very knowledgeable people here.

What I have is just above 13 volts at 1000 rpm idle then it goes up to about 15 volts as the rpm increases. It pretty well stays at 14.8-15 volts with the rpm above 3000. This seems pretty typical of the early Wings I have seen.

The 1000 rpm idle voltage falls to about 12.4 with the fan on & brake light on but comes up to 14.8 after a few seconds when the engine is reved up.

The above pretty well agrees with my service manual but I see a few posts by Dave Campbell that it should be 14.8 even at idle. I really don't see how that is possible but thought I should ask the experts here to see if they have found similar.


Thanks for all responses, a great web site here.

Twisty
 

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Welcome to the forum Twisty.

14.8 at idle is fine on paper, but I don't know of any 1200s that will do this, even though the alternators are fine. I think your alternator is in goo dshape and putting out a healthy charge. 12.8 or thereabouts seems to be average at idle.
 

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Hi Twisty, It all depends where your voltmeter is connected into your wiring andthe accuracy of the meter.

Mine is fitted across the accessory terminals and reads about the same voltages as your meter. If you check straight across the battery with adigital meter you'll find that the charging voltage, as long as your stator and rectifier are in good condition,is 14.8v as Dave Campbell suggests
 

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JOHNO wrote:
Hi Twisty, It all depends where your voltmeter is connected into your wiring andthe accuracy of the meter.

Mine is fitted across the accessory terminals and reads about the same voltages as your meter. If you check straight across the battery with adigital meter you'll find that the charging voltage, as long as your stator and rectifier are in good condition,is 14.8v as Dave Campbell suggests

JOHNO/ I have the meter hooked to the accessory terminal but have also hooked it directly to the battery posts as a cross check and the readings are very close. I have also checked the meteragainst a dvom 'Fluke' and the meter is quite accurate.

There is just no way my alternator is able to make 14.8 volts at idle and with the fan running it is about base battery voltage.

According to my service manual a reading of -1 amps to 0 amps with the voltage over 12 volts at a 950 rpm idle is normal 'fan off'. That just doesn'tagree with some of the postings here so that is why I'm asking all thequestions.

With that factory alternator & fixed magnetic rotor I just don't see how it can make 14.8 at idle with the fuel pump, coils, headlight, tail light, running lights, cooling fan, etc on.

Maybe I'm off base here but 14.8 at idle just seems out of character for that 1200 system.

Twisty
 

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My 1200 gets 14.8 at normal riding speed, not at idle. It improved after I installed the stator harness.
 

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tricky wrote:
My 1200 gets 14.8 at normal riding speed, not at idle. It improved after I installed the stator harness.

tricky, any idea what you get at idle?

Twisty
 

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I will check tomorrow and let you know, its too cold out there right now:) Its no where near 14.8 I am sure
 

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Hi guys, don't forget that battery's state of charge and condition will make a big difference in idle voltage, so check the battery voltage before startup, then see how much it goes up after the engine has run for a while. I once read a study on motorcycle batteries that it takes a full hour of highway driving to completely charge a battery after it has been used to start the bike. Idle RPM will also affect voltage, as well as having the headlite on high beam and the cooling fan running.

I have a high output 50 amp alternator on my 84 Wing and it still only puts out 13.6 volts at a 950 RPM idle speed, so I can hardly see a stock alternator put out 14.8 volts at idle, especially when the regulator should keep the voltage closer to 14.5 volts max.

Vic
 

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twisty wrote:
Hi, I'm new to this fine forum and by reading the archives and entries below I see there are some very knowledgeable people here.

Here is my first question? I just installed a volt meter on my 86 1200 non fuel injected and am wondering if the voltage I am seeing is correct?

What I have is just above 13 volts at 1000 rpm idle then it goes up to about 15 volts as the rpm increases. It pretty well stays at 14.8-15 volts with the rpm above 3000.

The 1000 rpm idle voltage falls to about 12.4 with the fan on & brake light on but comes up to 14.8 after a few seconds when the engine is revved up.

The above pretty well agrees with my service manual but I see a few posts by Dave Campbell that it should be 14.8 even at idle. I really don't see how that is possible but thought I should ask the experts here.

More info. I have a rear bumper light bar with 14 small bulbs in it 'like small push in dash bulbs'. I have also removed all the connectors in the yellow wires from the stator to the regulator and soldered all the connections.

Thanks for all responses, a great web site here.

Twisty
Welcome to the Best Goldwing Forums in the Known World Twisty!

I believe the manual calls for 14.4V at 3500rpm or there abouts. At lower rpms you are going to see lower voltages especially with the added lights. My previous bike, an 86 SEI, showed around 12.3V or so on it's digital voltmeter at idle. Your voltage readings sound okay to me. I've never seen a Goldwing that would charge at 14.8V at idle.

:waving::15red::waving:
 

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My 1200 had a new alternator and reggy fitted three years ago. It has always shown 12.8 volts at idle, even with the new parts. My understanding is that the GL1200 stator just does not charge the battery at idle.
 

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My 84I shows 14.6 at idle

dean_3326 :12red::12red::12red::12red::12red::12red:
 

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tricky wrote:
twisty wrote:


I checked it this morning, and at 1000 rpm the voltage is 14.9 I do have the Stator Harness installed. I got mine from here. http://www.vencowings.com/


Thanks Tricky/ I just used your infoand went out &and testedmine cold. With the rear bumper bar lights disconnected at 1050 rpm cold I get about 14.5 v. That rear bumper light bar draws 3 amps at 12 volts 'static'.

With the brake lights on and at 1050 idle it goes down to 13.4 v 'light bar disconnected'.

Hot with the fan and brakes on it's about 12.5-13 v depending on how long it idles with the brakes on.

I'm not too sure about the condition of my battery at this point as it only has about 12.2 v showing after sitting all night.

Right after a run it shows 13.1 volts 'ignition switch off' but slowly bleeds off to about 12.2 overnight.

I bought the bike used last fall so don't know the battery age or history.

Sorry for all the questions here but with all the 1200 electrical problems noted I am just trying to get smarter on the 1200 charging system.

Thanks to all that have responded so far as I am getting smarter on the 1200 electrical system with every post.

Twisty
 

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I have all my extra lighting controlled by a relayed switch and very seldom use them. If I go for the external alternator set up maybe I will then. I know if I have them all switched on the voltage starts a steady drop so just to be on the safe side...no extra lighting.
 

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It, does sound like you have a lot of extra's connected that are on when the bike is at idle. I must admit my stator is a non standard high power version and I don't have any extra's that are on when at idle, for info, the fuel pump is only active every time the left coil fires (works off the pulses)so is not a constant load.

With your battery only showing 12.2v in the morning could mean a dying battery but this is could also be ambienttemp related. I use an Optimate charger which is connected whenever the bike is at home so the battery is always top line

When my original Stator died the voltages from the pulse coils would start to affect volt readingsfrom about1500 rpm leading me to believe the stator was fine, how wrong was I when the battery gave up the ghost 400 miles from home!!!!!!!!
 
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