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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alright, I know I've posted about this before, so some of ya'll may be tired of it, but I still ain't got a solution and it's drivin' me nuts! (short drive, but still :))

So, the cluster "blinks out" when it's cold. Only when it's cold though. The "blinking" doesn't seem to be affected by bumps, wiggles, or other electrical accessories. The only thing that "activates" it is engine RPMs. It starts to happen at anything colder than about 60-65 degrees depending on where and how the bike is parked (IE, in my garage or outside in the sun).

At the warmest it happens, it's fine until about 3,000 RPM. As it gets colder, it will only stay on at idle, then below about 30 it won't come on at all.

Suggestions given in past posts were to check all the connections... check. I went through ALL of them, cleaned them, and "tightned" them up when possible. Another suggestion was the regulator, so when it warmed up last year, I got a can of freeze spray junk from radioshack and hit that dang regulator 'til it had a nice thick layer of ice... cluster still worked fine. I then used the same spray on all the connections, no effect.

I should add that engine temperature can have some effect as well. Example: if it's about 40 or so outside, when I first fire it up, it obvioulsy blinks badly at about 1200 RPM, goes out completely by 2000. But after a good long ride where the engine comes up to temp, if I stop at a light for a few minutes, when I pull off the "activation" RPM is either much higher or, sometimes, the cluster works just fine, like it was warm outside.

So, my conclusions are:
1. It is definately temperature related
2. Whatever the problem is is somehow related to engine RPM
3. Whatever it is that's affected by the ambient temp is also in some way affected by the heat from the engine, but only while standing still.

Because I fear I have been miscommunicating the problem in previous posts, I have attached two videos of what it's doing. In the videos, I tried to raise and lower the RPMs to show you what I'm talking about with temp/RPM ranges. The first video was a couple months ago, it was about 35 degrees that day (maybe 40 or so in my garage), the second was this morning, about 60 degrees in my garage.

Please, oh Goldwing masters, HELP!!!! :bow::wtf::cheesygrin:
http://s1135.photobucket.com/albums...=view&current=20130116_113004_zps2510e607.mp4

http://s1135.photobucket.com/albums...=view&current=20130207_105613_zps84c4732b.mp4
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
For some reason I can't seem to upload the videos so you can just play them here in the thread, so I just put in the links... anyone have any ideas on how to do that? Seemed to work just fine on the old system :?
 

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I have seen this problem on digital dashes that use a power control unit. The solder joint at the connector gets hot and burns a hole in the printed circuit board. Of course, I'm not seeing a control unit for the digital dash, so this doesn't apply.
My best advise is to remove the digital display unit, remove the cover and inspect the solder contacts closely for burned or missing solder. Since the entire head goes dark, it's either a common power or ground.
Good Luck.
 

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take a close look at fuse # 4 and at C2
could be a bad connection inside the fusebox itself
 

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Did you happen to clean the circuit board in the dash while cleaning the connectors?
Use 99% Isopropal alcohol(medical grade)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok, fuse 4 checked, socket looks good as new and I'm guessing someone already suggested that previously (probably you :)) because it looks like I replaced that fuse recently.

C2 no longer exists... hasn't since before I got the bike. PO had cut it out and put in one of those cheap screw-type terminal blocks from radio shack and wrapped it loosly in electrical tape. Last winter when I went through this, I was having other electrical issues too, so I had a full weekend of wiring repair. One of the repairs I did was to remove his terminal block and do nice, clean, heat shrinked solder joints for all the wires previously stored in C2.

As far as cleaning the circuit board... if you mean did I take the cluster apart and clean the board internally then the answer is no. At the time, the general consenus was a wiring problem.

So what's the next step? Pull the cluster and tear in? Or are there other avenues I should persue first?
 

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Ok, fuse 4 checked, socket looks good as new and I'm guessing someone already suggested that previously (probably you :)) because it looks like I replaced that fuse recently.

C2 no longer exists... hasn't since before I got the bike. PO had cut it out and put in one of those cheap screw-type terminal blocks from radio shack and wrapped it loosly in electrical tape. Last winter when I went through this, I was having other electrical issues too, so I had a full weekend of wiring repair. One of the repairs I did was to remove his terminal block and do nice, clean, heat shrinked solder joints for all the wires previously stored in C2.

As far as cleaning the circuit board... if you mean did I take the cluster apart and clean the board internally then the answer is no. At the time, the general consenus was a wiring problem.

So what's the next step? Pull the cluster and tear in?
Or are there other avenues I should persue first?
If you have cleaned the connectors with electrical contact cleaner real good, I would clean the board inside the speedo as it could have some solder flux that has wept from the heat there in AZ and if so it will attract moisture in the cold air during the winter months and that could be the problem. The 96 & 97 1500 circuit boards had a problem of they were not cleaned properly at manufacturer and the LCD clock and radio displays did weird stuff in moisture laden air.
 

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the dog bone fuse situated to the right of the battery, can cause problems with the dashboard and lights, I had it happen on an apy, and have seen it happen on an SEI just recently.

the fuse is under a rubber cover below the starter solenoid, to the right of the battery, take the fuse out to check it, because a look at it wont show any cracks.

I would suggest replacing the dog bone with a 30amp blade fuse.

good luck
 

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if you say that C2 has been "replaced" per se i would revisit that repair again
removing the tank cover and wiggling each wire may help to find the intermittent problem,problems such as these are a bear to find

i'm well aware of an intermittent problem which took me 3 years to diagnose,repair only two two hours
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Dogbone to blade fuse already done... been that way a long time.

Part of my checking to recreate the problem was to shake and twist every connection, including the repair at C2. Like I said, no form of "movement" seems to have any effect. Just the same, I've been caught by that trap before, so when I tear in later today I WILL double check that repair.

I don't know that I would call this intermittent in that the causes of it are definate... IE temperature and engine speed. It will consistantly do what it did in the video with precision every time.
 

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I had the exact same symtoms as in your video's on one of the ltd's a couple of years ago during winter. I was able to only narrow it down to the trip computer, swapped out computer and problem went away and hasn't returned
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The trip computer... now thats an avenue I've not yet looked down... I've had plenty of problems with the trip computer, but I never thought about that and this being related... good call boss, its officially on the list!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
1200L rider, I love ya :), I hate ya too :lash:, but I love ya...

We have a winner... I don't know how, why, or otherwise, but we have a winner. It's the trip computer.

It was already cold today, but just to make sure I'd have plenty of "diagnostic" time, I kicked the a/c on in the garage to get it down to about 30. I fired it up and yup, cluster blinking. I got my heat gun out and started puttin' heat on the cluster. Got the whole cluster good and hot to the touch... no change. Tried to put heat on the trip computer, no change. But figuring the trip computer was a bit harder to heat, I just went ahead and unplugged it... cluster was workin fine. Plugged it back in, cluster stopped workin', unplugged it, cluster started workin' again.

So drat, spit, and poopy :sadguy: One of my favorite parts of the bike is toast and it just so happens to be one of the hardest parts to find :sadguy:

Ideas for salvation? :?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
BTW, I should point out that at NO time does the screen on the trip computer have any kind of malfunction...
 

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It might just need a good cleaning and checking out, pull it apart and clean the board and connectors.
 

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sounds unusual,i've had trouble with a trip computer before but it never made any difference in the dashboard
 

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Hey,
What did you finally do about this computer issue.
I have the same dash issue and have found that unplugging the trip computer makes the blinking stop.
My trip computer doesn't work. Yet the button to reset the trip odometer works and I like being able to do that.
Please let me know what you did.
Thanks,
IrnBear
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I took the travel computer apart and found some corrosion between a couple solder joints. I cleaned it up with a dremel and it SEEMED to work... for a couple months anyway. Now it's back and worse. I don't know what to do at this point but i do KNOW it's something with the travel computer.
 

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There is always a couple of them available on eBay. Currently there are at least 5 of them ranging from butt ugly but working for $75, to pristine for $282.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
There is always a couple of them available on eBay. Currently there are at least 5 of them ranging from butt ugly but working for $75, to pristine for $282.
That's more than a 1/4 of my monthly income right now :ROFL::sadguy:

Seriously though, I have a half butt plan, just have to have that impossible to get thing called time...
 
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