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purchased a stator from rmstator a month or so back. installed it and everything checked out. about 2 weeks later and about 700 miles later, dead battery again.

i am now recharging battery, when fully charged will check stator output again.

could it possibly be something else?

new battery and new stator from rmstator. battery, is from napa. will post what i find when battery gets fully charged again.

thank you,



mark z.:waving:
 

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Hey Mark, what is the condition of the connector just forward of the battery that has the 3 YELLOW wires running into and out of it?

This is a problem spot in the charging system. Most people cut out that connector and splice the wires together, solder them and shrink wrap them. The connector is famous for getting moisture in it and corroding and causing all sorts of problems.

Give it a look and let us know what you find.
 

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it looks good. am planning on doing away with it but wanted to make sure all worked before i did. when i am positive the stator is good, will cut, solder and heat shrink wires.

battery has been charging at 4.3 for about an hour now. this charger will say full when complete. beginning to think maybe, a bad battery, even tho it is new.



mark z.:waving:
 

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got tired of waiting. took battery off charger, read 13.7, then started dropping to 12.80. started bike and it read 13.00 at 3000 rpm's.

it's coming up, but not much. wondering should i keep charging battery? [don't want to over charge it] and thinking about cutting plugs off, soldering and heat shrinking.

or is the stator possibly bad, even tho., new or possibly something else?

any help will be greatly appreciated.

thank you,

mark z.:waving:
 

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Do you have an Auto Parts store close by? (Auto Zone, O'Reilly's, NAPA...) If so, take your battery in to them and have them run a load test on it. This will tell you if the battery is bad or not.

I am pretty sure that you can check the voltage of the stator regardless of the battery. Start the engine and hold it at the recommended RPM and using a tester, test across 2 of the yellow wires coming from the stator. You will test 3 times ( A to B, B to C and C to A) and should show around 50 volts on each test, if my memory serves me correctly.

Keep us informed as to what you find.
 

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Had same problem ,out came wire cutters and got rid of connecter ( 3 yellow wires) problem no more.
 

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Recently on a 1000 that had the "infamous" conector by-passed the problem just moved down the line to the next connector. That is the one that goes to the rectifier on a 1000. The same 3 yellow wires caused that connector to fail so if it is the same on a 1200 add that to your list of places to look.
 

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Yes, the connectors are a problem everywhere. My stator went out and left me stranded 200 miles from home. I got the bike home with a lot of help from friends and when I did, I ordered the Poorboy alternator kit and have never looked back. I am done with the stator thing. I cut and capped all wires and everything is good.
 

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I got a bad reg/rec from RM Stator once. It only put out 11 volts. I replaced it with a Honda used one and it runs about 13.7. RM has a different wiring pattern as their improvement. Didn't do it for me.
 

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Hey Zimmerleemark,
Your Goldwingis listed as a 1500. The 1500 uses an alternator system, not a stator. When I had my 1500, sticking brushes in the alternator caused similiar problems to yours.
suks2bu37
 

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suks2bu37 wrote:
Hey Zimmerleemark,
Your Goldwingis listed as a 1500. The 1500 uses an alternator system, not a stator. When I had my 1500, sticking brushes in the alternator caused similiar problems to yours.
suks2bu37
1500 gone now, back to a 1200



sux too:cheeky1:

mark z.:waving:
 

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At 3000 rpm the stator should be putting out 15 + at the battery.

If you've been charging the battery at a higher rate than 1.5 Volts you've likely cooked it.
 

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Not an expert on electrics, but I've heard that if you check the battery voltage with the bike running, with the multi meter an AC mode, instead of DC, and you get a value, it could be the regulator /rectifyer is cooked and hence the reason for the lower DC value. The remainder coming to the battery is just AC. I'm open to correction on this.
 
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