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Hello guys, do any of you know a top notch 1200 mechanic anywhere in the US that I could bounce some ideas off of? I have replaced everything to do with the cooling system. on a 73 degree day running on the highway at 70 its bumping the fan on and off, im ready to pull my hair out. I checked the temp of the radiator after a ride with a laser temp guage, the water comming out of the stat housing is 205-206 the water comming out the bottom is 182-185. the fan runs so much wile rideing its starting to pull the battery down. So please share with me any 1200 expert teck you might know. thank you.
 

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Can't find the name of the shop right now, but the Honda dealer here (columbus) has a recommended shop for older Hondas. I'll see if I can find it tomorrow.
However, based on the symptoms you describe, it sounds like the water isn't flowing, either due to a bad thermostat or maybe a clogged radiator. My Jeep had the same symptoms, and had to replace the rad.

Have you tested/changed the thermostat?

May be step one of a DIY job.
Good luck



http://www.findbikeshop.com/state/OH-bikeshop.htm



Royal Motorcycle Performance

314 475 1245



is the one I was thinking of
 

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Yea I tested the stat it tested good, I have been running it without a stat to see how the temp did, no diffrent, the rad was serviced at a rad shop.
 

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Vapor lock?
I assume you've 'burped' it?

(BTW: Took a short hop over to Wright Patt yesterday. Nice day for a ride)
 

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Check the anti-freeze level with the rad cap off and engine running. If, it's low when you pull off the cap, that's your problem. you may have not burped the baby as we call it when you replaced everything. Too much air in the cooling system.
 

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can you verify that your fan is not running backwards? what temp rating is your thermostat?, Did you replace the water pump? Do you have proper rad hoses that will not collapse when coolant is being sucked through them?

Im not sure what temp is considered too hot or out of normal for that bike but if your temp sensor is not reading accurately, it will turn on your fan when it does not require fan cooling.
Is your bike consuming coolant?
 

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hatchetman wrote:
can you verify that your fan is not running backwards? what temp rating is your thermostat?, Did you replace the water pump? Do you have proper rad hoses that will not collapse when coolant is being sucked through them?

Im not sure what temp is considered too hot or out of normal for that bike but if your temp sensor is not reading accurately, it will turn on your fan when it does not require fan cooling.
Is your bike consuming coolant?
Honda doesn't offer the stat iin diffrent temps just the stock one. The water pump is tight, no wobbel, no leaks and not slipping on the shaft. Hoses are new. The fan is comming on at the temp it should. the bike is just running right below and right at that temp all the time. And it's not useing any coolant. Thanks.
 

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Sounds to me like your fan is coming on too early. Do you have a digital dash? If so, what is the reading (bars) that the fan kicks on? Mine doesn't come on until 6 bars and cuts off at 5. The temps sound right.
 

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Code:
The temperature drop across the radiator should be at least 30 degrees and preferably more. The outlet temperature of the water should be below the set point of your thermostat.  If you're running a 185 degree thermostat, an outlet temperature of 155-165 should be observed even in the hottest weather.

I noticed you did not mention maintenance on the radiator. If the fins of the radiator are rotten where they fasten to the tube it will not cool well. Also older radiators can accumulate a film on the inside of the tube. It acts as an insulator and will not allow the coolant to come in contact with the tube. Therefore it can not give off heat. I would have the radiator gone through.

Explain the problem to the radiator shop. 
I really doubt it is a pump or thermostat problem. When they fail coolant 
can sit in the radiator for a long time. I would expect high engine temps 
and low radiator outlet temps then. Good luck!

What the heck did I do to get the white box?? My computer skills are not the greatest! Oh well.
 

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You obviously have had the t-stat out. If it is a Honda t-stat there is a small "air bleed" hole in the outer ring. This hole MUST face UP or you will end up with some air in the system after refilling.

If it has been replaced with an aftermarket t-stat, you must drill a small (~1/8") hole in the outer ring and install the t-stat with the hole at the 12 o'clock position. This bleed hole allows air in the system to escape.

Sounds like you've covered most other bases, so it could be something simple like this.
 

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Have you replaced the fan switch? If so the new one may be an
"upgrade" switch, designed to turn the fan on at a lower temp.
There was a thread on this a few days ago. If you bought the switch
from S*ber, this is what you got with out being told. There is another E-Bay sight that sells the same switch, but explains what it is. If you live in Arizona and drive in the desert, you might want one. Otherwise not.

On my 84 the part number is 37510-MB9-871 and is $66 for the OEM part.
 

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I had a similar issue with my 84 1200A. Temp would go up and fan would come on at most any speed. Finally after many attempts to correct, I took out the t-stat and drilled 10 1/16" holes around the perimeter so there was always flow. T-stat still functions as designed. It takes a little longer to warm up on cool mornings but that is OK.Otherwise, temp stays right in the middle unless I am in start/stop traffic on 80 + deg days. Fan then comes on as needed and cools right back down once I am moving for a few minutes. It worked for me, cost 0$. Sounds like you have tried everything else.

Keep us posted as to how this turns out. I will be curious to see how it this is solved.

Toolman
 

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OK this doesn't make any sence to me, I just let the bike idle till the fan came on, the stat houseing was 211 when it kicked on, soon as the fan came on I started taking readings across the rad, the area directly infront of the fan was down to 135-145, in no time, how ever down toward the bottom it was still 195 and the bottom spout was also 195. Could air trappedbe doing this or does it sound like the rad shop screwed me cleaning it?
 

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Occasionally air can get trapped in a radiator but in a short time it will usually work its way out. The temperature where the fan blows is not necessarily indicative of coolant temp. What if it is cooling the radiator but the coolant is not able to contact the tube as I mentioned above. You would have a cool radiator and hot coolant. Does that make sense? I would think the radiator might need a second look. I would call the radiator shop and explain it just as you did here. 16 degree drop across the radiator is not near enough especially if it is cool outside. Again....good luck,
 

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redwing52 wrote:
Occasionally air can get trapped in a radiator but in a short time it will usually work its way out. The temperature where the fan blows is not necessarily indicative of coolant temp. What if it is cooling the radiator but the coolant is not able to contact the tube as I mentioned above. You would have a cool radiator and hot coolant. Does that make sense? I would think the radiator might need a second look. I would call the radiator shop and explain it just as you did here. 16 degree drop across the radiator is not near enough especially if it is cool outside. Again....good luck,
I think your right, doesn't sound like its cooling the water, I think I will find a new rad shop. One thing I forgot to mention, I don't have the lowers on the bike, with all the in and out of the rad It was easyer to leave them off, I wouldn't think they would have much if any efect on it??? Thanks bud.
 

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Hey I had a radiator shop tell today that I should remove the radiator, plug the bottom hose outlet. fill it with distiled waterand the cleaner called CLR it's ment to disolve calcium lime and rust, he says to let it soak over night then flush it out good, And then bring it in for a cleaning if this doesn't work. What do you guys think??
 

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bignbadjon wrote:
Hey I had a radiator shop tell today that I should remove the radiator, plug the bottom hose outlet. fill it with distiled waterand the cleaner called CLR it's ment to disolve calcium lime and rust, he says to let it soak over night then flush it out good, And then bring it in for a cleaning if this doesn't work. What do you guys think??
CLR is very acidic... while it will remove calcium deposits, it may not be the best for the radiator... I'd probably start with a little weaker acidic solution, vinegar for example.. In fact, I'd probably load it up with vinegar and drive it for a day.. Furthermore, it would seem to me that a good radiator shop could boil out calcium deposits without your help... try another rad shop... you shouldn't have to do his job..SDB/Jim
 

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Maybe I didn't explaine that right, he told me to try that before I brought it to him meaning if that worked I wouldn't need to bring it to him at all. Think vinagar would do anything??? Other then make it smell funny?:cheeky1:
 

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bignbadjon wrote:
... Think vinagar would do anything??? Other then make it smell funny?:cheeky1:
Do you use it in your coffee maker?? Works there.. should work in the bike.. I think it is more like a coffee maker than a toilet... SDB/Jim
 
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