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Should water pump water replacement be based on age,miles or failure?My 87 Interstate has 80k+ miles but it is not leaking & runs cool.How much labor & time for this job?
 

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One of the more knowledgeable members will answer soon.
But failure would be my guess.
We have 90,000 on our 85 no leaks etc. If yours has had good maintenance regular flushes with the correct anti freeze and distilled water (not tap) should be good to go.
But if you have some major maintenance coming up belt change, hose change might not be a bad idea. Or maybe a long cross country trip.
I did a belt, hose, thermostat fluid flush last winter, wish I had gone ahead and rebuilt the pump while I was in there. Here is the link.

http://www.goldwingdocs.com/forum/vi...0898a4196303d7
 

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There is a weep hole on the bottom of the pump and when the seal lets go there will be oil and or antifreeze leaking out the weep hole. You can also remove the inspection cover in the front if the pump and check the bearings for any play side to side, and top to bottom.
Do you have a repair manual for your bike? Doing your own repairs or paying a shop? I don't know the shop flat rate time to replace the pump if that is what you are asking for.
If replacement is needed, be sure and change the thermostat and hoses too, also those numbers are in the list of Aftermarket parts.

If you have not replaced the timing belts, do so. They are due if you don't have a record of then being replaced :before now. These are interference motors and if a belt breaks the valves will hit the pistons and bend or break off a valve head and a hole in the piston. Belts are cheap insurance, $50-60 for 2 belts compaired to a motor or heads. There are Aftermarket belts for less than half the price of Honda belts. Look in the Aftermarket parts list in the reference and facts forum section. You can order online and save at Rockauto.com once you get the belt number from the list.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
thanks.I have a manual but sometimes talking to someone who has gotten his hands dirty gives me a better of the repair at hand.Been a mechanic(diesel) long time & I like to tinker on it.There are some really useful post on the forum.
 

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I have found that they hold up if taken care (of with proper pm and not left to set by themselves for long periods of not being ridden or run. They get cranky sitting around waiting for attention. Just keep a look out for leakage at the weep hole and inspection of the impeller play once a year. Get a new o-ring for the inspection plate.
If. You have to replace the pump get the Honda pump. Not a real bad job, just have to pull the front cover to get to the pump bolts to remove and will need the gasket kit from georgesfix(good guy, good prices too) on EBAY. Maybe 4-5 hrs first time.
 

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Should water pump water replacement be based on age,miles or failure?My 87 Interstate has 80k+ miles but it is not leaking & runs cool.How much labor & time for this job?
If it isnt leaking and the bike is running OK why even think about replacing, I think I did my 85 about 200,000k
 

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If it isnt leaking and the bike is running OK why even think about replacing, I think I did my 85 about 200,000k
If the bearings are going it probably won't leak right away and if the bearings are going you run the risk that they'll seize breaking the drive tabs. Murphy's law says that will happen far from home.

At the very least take the cover off and check for play in the bearings.
 

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If the water pump happens to seize it can break the oil pump shaft whitch will require engine removal to replace. I was lucky on mine, I replaced the engine and a small woodruff key was in the waterpump impeller housing (I didn't know obviously) and the bike would run hot. when I pulled the water pump the shaft on the pump had broke and I had to remove the front oil pump housing cover to get the pieces out. I dont think bearing failure can be determined by milage or age, i certainly wont replace mine until it leakes, but if your going to be in the front of the engine I would do it just because.
 

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If the bearings are going it probably won't leak right away and if the bearings are going you run the risk that they'll seize breaking the drive tabs. Murphy's law says that will happen far from home.

At the very least take the cover off and check for play in the bearings.

This guy say's he's had the bike four years, presumably he's been driving it and has done regular maintenance in the past four years such as changing the oil and filter at the correct schedule or better.
80,000 miles no way that pump should be worn.

He is asking how much for labour and cost, means he is probably taking it to a stealer to do or some other shade tree mech.
 

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This guy say's he's had the bike four years, presumably he's been driving it and has done regular maintenance in the past four years such as changing the oil and filter at the correct schedule or better.
80,000 miles no way that pump should be worn.

He is asking how much for labour and cost, means he is probably taking it to a stealer to do or some other shade tree mech.
My bike had 84,000 Km on it when I got it.
At 105,000 KM the weep hole started weeping.
I put a new pump in and the bike was quieter than it had been from the day I bought it so the pump bearing had been bad 21,000 KM or more.
I consider myself lucky that I didn't have a catastrophic failure.
A simple test of the water pump bearing play should be a semi annual ritual when you change the coolant.
 

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Semi annual ritual? I think you meant bi-annual every 2 years.

If you don't know how long it's been since the coolan has been changed then it's time to change it. You don't need to remove the "inspection" plate or cover. I've had 3 1200's and I quit frankly don't know what that means. All you have to do is remove the two nuts holding the lower end of the radiator to the frame. Pull the radiator forward an inch or so and loosen the lower radiator hose where it attaches to the engine crankcase. Stick your finger in there and you can feel the impeller shaft. Try to wiggle it up and down and sideways. If it's bad there will be movement. I'm not talking about rotational movement. But straight up and down and sideways movement of the shaft.

Mileage doesn't matter. I replaced the water pump om my 84 Standard with 40k miles. It had sat for many years and the silicates came out of suspension and ground the bearings and seals up.

You can find modern ani-freeze that says "contains no silicates" and "safe for all engines" so if you pump is not bad now there is a good chance it will last for many more miles using modern coolants and changing it every couple of years.
 

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Semi annual ritual? I think you meant bi-annual every 2 years.
Du, what you said.:waving:
I also question seal failure, in most if not all cases it's bearing failure that causes seal leakage.
 
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