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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I don't want to pull the carbs off (again) but my engine doesn't idle good and if I pull off #3 and 4 plug wires it don't change anything, pull off # 1 or 2 it will die. at faster rpm all pistons are firing but it still don't run good at that. I just put the engine back in and also cleaned the carbs. the bike ran great before I pulled the engine. what would effect only the back two cylinders? a weak coil?
 

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Dave has you pointed in the proper direction. If you R & R'd the motor and pulled the carb rack, go back over your connections to and around the coils.
 

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Dudeboy check to be sure it is firing correctly. Pull plug wires on one side and insert plugs and watch for spark while cranking over. They should not be sparking at the exact same time. Pull wires on the other side to prevent starting while checking.

You got to get back with answers when someone posts you a question.:coollep:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have done all this and everything seems OK. without taking it apart I am at a great quandry. same o thing. I have new plugs, new wires, clean carbs, I didn't install carb kits, installed new seals/gaskets.
 

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It aint rocket science and the thing aint going to the moon.

If you had done the tests between this thread and the other one you would know by now what the problem is.

Compression test, visual spark tests, check timing with a timing light and the carb clean for rich-lean tests.

Try spraying a little carb clean down into the intake, just a couple small shots and then maybe a little more. ANY CHANGES.

BTW What did you do to the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
on the engine I done nothing, I removed the stator because it fell off while running. I know it is difficult to diagnose something when you cant touch it, I am here and I cant do it. I have an idea that it is the carbs. I just hate to pull them. I didn't overhaul them the first time I only cleaned them trying to save a hundred dollars. If you don't do it right the first time how will you ever do it right again? now I have nothing but time...
 

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Is that the year with the pulse coils in the rear of the engine.

It aint the end of the world if you gotta pull the rack again, look at the bright side only 2 are giving problems.

You gotta know whether it is ign or rich-lean related before starting any work. Once you know that you dig a little deeper into the system so you can zero in on exact parts/components which will cause the problem.

Only get parts in this case as needed, everything should be able to clean up or adjust out.

These guys here know their racks.:)
 

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on the engine I done nothing, I removed the stator because it fell off while running. I know it is difficult to diagnose something when you cant touch it, I am here and I cant do it. I have an idea that it is the carbs. I just hate to pull them. I didn't overhaul them the first time I only cleaned them trying to save a hundred dollars. If you don't do it right the first time how will you ever do it right again? now I have nothing but time...
How is it charging W/O a stator. Diagnosis is not hard if you can follow directions and do as told when it comes to checking things.

You did it your way the first time, take direction and do it right the second time.:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I AM AWARE THAT THERE ARE ONLY TWO THINGS TO KEEP AN ENGINE FROM RUNNING ( PROVIDING THE MECHANICS ARE OK) fuel and/or spark. determine which one it is and then take that course. I thought that one of you guys would have a quick and easy answer for me. The best answer was slow down, go to work and fix it. I thank you for all your help...
 

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Only my 2nd post but from what you described in your post. It's good possibility your idle jets are clogged. Best approach to cleaning carbs is to treat it like surgical operation slightest bit of dirt can screw things up.

%90 of my carb experience is with the CB750 this spring was chasing the inexplicable bit of dirt. Bike would run great for an hour and then start cutting out or decide to be hard starting PIA when its a kick only, had to flush the tank, replace filter and pop the rack off to clean things properly. Granted an inline four is much easier to work on than a Goldwing

Have cleaned carbs on an 85 1200A did not enjoy it
 

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I am from the camp that thinks if something ran correctly BEFORE I worked on it, then it was something I did (or failed to do) that's caused the problem. I personally would rule out failed parts as the problem and get an accurate set of vital signs of your motor. Compression (the third thing a motor needs to run) for baseline information, spark (verify that you're getting equal visual spark to each plug), timing (rule out firing order mistakes).

A thorough carb cleaning is complicated but not beyond the capabilities of average mechanical aptitude, if one is observant for the details. Same goes for the R & R process.

Did you drill out the pilot screw access plugs and remove the pilot screws during your cleaning operation? If you didn't open up all of the carb's passageways and blast them out with cleaner, then you can be sure they're clean. After verifying that nothing was missed in the electrical department, like an unplugged wire to a coil, for instance, then I'd concentrate on a thorough fuel system service.
 
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