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Just wanted to pick the brains of some of the Guru's and get there input. I just overhauled these carbs and it runs great in mid- range, and tip end. Now all of a sudden during the idle it sounds like it's starving for air/ fuel??? Can't quit put my finger on it, but it acts like it's an Air/ Fuel mixture problem??. I never touched them during the rebuild cause they are sealed with the OEM caps. I changed the sub filter and the vacuum is great. I don't have a vacuum leak, and the system is sealed. Just seem to sputter at an idle. Once you come off the idle circuit it performs fantastic. Any thoughts??? Thanks in advance for any and all replys...................Allan AKA flyboyziel56
 

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Hi Allen when you say starving of air/gas what symptoms do you have re running rich, missing, hesitation ect
 

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Hey Allen!
Did you sync the carbs?
 

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Thanks for the replys!!. The carbs were synced after the rebuild Stu!!. I have them dead on. As for the idle problem during idle when you crack the throttle there is a hesitation and a " Flutter " sound like it's running on 3 or 4 cylinders but it's not, only for a moment. Then it clears up and all is normal?? Make since?. During deceleration when it goes to 850 rpm it momentarily dips lower and then flutters, then comes back up to 850. If you start it up when it's cold there is no way to hold an idle @ 850 eps unless it's hot. ????????
 

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Plugged idle jets or slides not operating smoothly. Try some seafoam spray on the slides as you flic the throttle a few times.
 

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If you did not remove the mixture jets there is a good chance some crud got behind the needles. i know they are hard to get to now, but you need to remove the needles and clean out the ports, then adjust them for best idle. the same thing happened to me when I built my carbs.
 

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Monkey wrench that's what I've been thinking!!. It acts just like a mixture problem. It's the only thing I've not touch. It's like if I could only move them out or in, I could smooth it out!!!
 

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those caps have to come out then clean out the pilot jets.
these have very small holes and are easily plugged, a wire from a wire brush should go through.
before you remove, FIRST turn the pilot jets in, write down how many turns till it hits bottom.
 

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Armo wrote:
those caps have to come out then clean out the pilot jets.
these have very small holes and are easily plugged, a wire from a wire brush should go through.
before you remove, FIRST turn the pilot jets in, write down how many turns till it hits bottom.



Well today I went from good to bad to ugly!!!. I went on a 150 mile round trip with the bike and about 75 other bikers. We escorted 2 pieces of steel from the WTC in NY. It left Jacksonville Fl. This morning headed to south Fl. The bike did fine until the trip back home. Mid way to the house when I brought it to an idle it just dies!!!. I have to keep around 1000 to 1100 RPMs just to idle. If you feather the throttle it starts to surge and then hesitates. This just all started within a few miles???. With the way it started acting up in traffic, I'm lucky I made it to the house. Well tomorrow the carbs are coming off and the caps are going to be removed to get the screws cleaned and readjusted.

Hope this works??? :praying: Allan
 

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and NEW fuel filter,
you should be able to see through the pilot jets, but sounds like one is clogged, if you can't unclog it with a fine wire, put the jet over a flame to heat it up, then try it. You don't have to replace the caps. but you can put a blob of silicon.
 

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Armo wrote:
and NEW fuel filter,
you should be able to see through the pilot jets, but sounds like one is clogged, if you can't unclog it with a fine wire, put the jet over a flame to heat it up, then try it. You don't have to replace the caps. but you can put a blob of silicon.
Well that wasn't it!!!. I removed the carbs (AGAIN) and tried to heat the pilot screws witha wagner heat gun and it wouldn't budge!!. Come to find out these screws were "D" style screws and the tool for removing them is # 07LMA-MT8010A from mother honda. Anyway I managed to get them removed with no damage to the pilot screws, and cut a slot into their head of the screw. This way I could use a thinlong flat tip screw driver through the front of the radiator opening to adjust the pilot screws. Starting point is 2 full turns out from seating the screw, then doing the "Drop Method" is from that point turn both screws out until the RPM's drop by 50RPM's. AfterI cleaned and reassembled the screws and cleaned the passage way's, started up the engine and noticed right away there was that same old flutter!!!. I allowedit to get up to operating temperature and started the "Drop " procedure. I checked both sides and it had no effect. This lead me to believe Imay have a VACUUM leak!!!. So I took a can of Carb cleaner and sprayed it around the base of the carb/intake area and the RPM'sshot up!!!.Now I never checked under the rubber flap where the intake lies, butI suspect itmight be there or the rubber to the carbs!!.



Looks like it's Gremlin chasing time!!!!:waiting::waiting::waiting:........Allan
 

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you know, Dr. House has the same problems when he's trying to diagnose a patient...
 

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Kenny wrote:
Have a read of this attachment, might help you find the leak.

http://www.hrot.org/martino/carb/index.htm
This must be a problem with the 1500!!!, As it turn out "That's exactly where the problem was"!!!!. I'll attach a picture of the culprit and as you can see in the first picture it was that same hose with the bend on it going to the left side intake. These hoses attach to the "T" in the right intake and then travel up to the engine control module. Module is sensing the vacuum and adjusting the timing according to the vacuum!!!. Anyway I did a complete vacuum check of the solenoids and all of them were working according to the service manual. the attached image shows the hose missing from the "T", and it's #3 orange to a #1 orange. thanks so much guys for all of your help!!. I'll keep you all informed as to the progress of the assembly.



............................................Allan AKA flyboyziel56:cheesygrin:
 

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Here is the hose!!!. I put a small screw driver through the hole in the bend just for reference!!!!.
 

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Yep, that 90 degree is the worst on the whole bike. I had a small crack in mine and it took care of the same problem you are having. You just have to poke around and look under everything on these bikes....;)
 

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Glad to see you found it Allan, I have a similar problem and had researched it, hence I came accross the articleI sent you. Be glad to know what you find down there, my bike is an '89 so I plan doing this job soon but while I'm down there I'm goin to replace as much pipework as possible, water hoses as well. Let me know how you get on.
 

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Kenny wrote:
Glad to see you found it Allan, I have a similar problem and had researched it, hence I came accross the article I sent you. Be glad to know what you find down there, my bike is an '89 so I plan doing this job soon but while I'm down there I'm goin to replace as much pipework as possible, water hoses as well. Let me know how you get on.




Well one thing is for sure, if you plan on doing the vacuum lines do yourself a BIG favor and during he hose replacement change out the fitting on the left side intake. I took out the straight fitting and replaced it with a 90 degree fitting. This way the bend that seems to be a common problem on the hose will now be on the fitting. Cut a straight piece for the hose and continue on. I guess Mother Honda never figured this out!!!!, or there would have been a TIB bulletin...............Allan
 

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I agree, from the shape of the old hose you can see where the pressure of the vacuum suction is putting pressure on the bend of the hose causing failure, my bike only has 42,000 miles although it is 22 years old so suppose can't complain too much, as a matter of interest how clunky is your gearchange? I'm looking at replacing seals and piston in the slave cylinder to see if it will help.
 

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Kenny wrote:
I agree, from the shape of the old hose you can see where the pressure of the vacuum suction is putting pressure on the bend of the hose causing failure, my bike only has 42,000 miles although it is 22 years old so suppose can't complain too much, as a matter of interest how clunky is your gearchange? I'm looking at replacing seals and piston in the slave cylinder to see if it will help.


I got mine @ 107K. I know have 111K on the speedo. I had very healthy records showing the maintenance on it from day 1. Records show @ 97K the clutch assembly and slave were rebuilt along with a new timing belt. Before you rebuild the slave, try bleeding out the system. I did mine awhile back (2K ago) and found black crud in the master resivour. I used a vacuum gauge at the bleed point and sucked the old crud out until I had clear fluid. Made a world of a difference in the clutch shifting points!! It still plunks loud but I believe that's from age and miles. I'm using synthetic oil from Valvaline (High Mileage). And it calmed down the plunk noise. There are some things we just can't seem to get away from. Mileage and gear klunking is 2 of them!!!!. I can relate on the years for things to go wrong. Mine is only 11 years old but a lot of miles!!!...........................Allan
 
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