Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums banner
Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,046 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have heard that doing a carb R&R on a 1500 is a major PITA. I have looked through the "How to articals" but I didn't see anything about carb removal.
I have a gas leak somewhere B/C when I'm done riding, I have a strong raw gas smell. It is NOT the petcock as the tray is dry. So I'm thinking that is coming from the bowl gasket.
My question is what is the hardest part of the R&R?. I'm going to do all the hoses while I'm in there. I already have a carb kit. I need to get this done before Nassir.
Dose somebody have a "How To" for this?

Thanks, Carl
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,379 Posts
i've worked on 1100, 1200 and 1500 carbs the pita is the same.. easier to work on them since there are just two of them. but the removal is almost the same as lots of plastic has to be removed, easy but what gets tricky is to remove some hoses on the air box and aronund the carbs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,795 Posts
...My question is what is the hardest part of the R&R?...
Hardest part is the 1st-time removal of the carb from the rubber isolators, atop the intake manifold... they sometimes stick pretty hard, and you'll have to manually rock/pull in order to break them free. Re-installation is much easier if you lightly Grease the mating surfaces (preforably using K&N Air Filter Grease).

Buy yourself a foot-long pair of hose pliers too.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,046 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thank you gentlemen. :claps: Larry, that link will help a lot.:bow:
 

·
It aint rocket science
Joined
·
3,966 Posts
Toughest part for me is getting my paws in to hook up water hoses for the heat riser and clamps. Like everything else on the bike no extra length of nothing to ease reassembly.

Don't strip the heads of the top carb plate screws they can be tight and you will likely know if somebody has been in there before. Impact driver is your friend. I had a float bowl gasket leaking only when cold, after warm up it stopped.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
102 Posts
I am mechanically inclined as I drag raced for over 15 years but the thought of tackling the carbs just had me on edge so I went to a dealer about an hour from me with a tech who has done it for close to 40 years, 24 hrs later I have a new bike, man am I glad I found him. It was worth what it cost just to not lose my religion 20 times.
 

·
Honda Guru
Joined
·
2,075 Posts
Carl… you might want to take a close look at the hoses going to and from the fuel filter. The Honda spring clamps aren't the best in the world and especially if you have one of those accessory fuel filters (that are now out of stock) the hoses aren't an exact fit. There was a .25mm difference between the stock/accessory fuel filter fitting diameters. Gas can leak and the 'I smell raw gas' is a common complaint. Get some small screw-type clamps… that might fix it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,046 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Carl… you might want to take a close look at the hoses going to and from the fuel filter. The Honda spring clamps aren't the best in the world and especially if you have one of those accessory fuel filters (that are now out of stock) the hoses aren't an exact fit. There was a .25mm difference between the stock/accessory fuel filter fitting diameters. Gas can leak and the 'I smell raw gas' is a common complaint. Get some small screw-type clamps… that might fix it.
I have a Napa filter installed right now. I seals pretty good, & I don't see any wetness from around the filter. Thanks for that tip though.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,046 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well I got the job done this weekend. It was not as bad as I thought. I did not try to rush it. I removed the plastic Friday night. Removed the carbs, soaked them in carb cleaner, new gaskets & hoses & reassembled the carb on Saturday. (I took about 4 dozen pics along the way.) Put them back on the bike today. Synced the carbs, adjusted the idle. Went on a 12 mile road test & when I got it back into the garage, I didn't smell the raw gas.

When I got everything apart & inspected the hoses, I really didn't see any cuts or cracks. But I replaced all the hoses anyway. One thing I did find was the two coolent hoses was soft at the tip top of the hose. It appeared that it had a very small coolent leak. So I cut off about 1/2" from the top of the hose. The service manual call for the pilot screws to be set at 2 turns. I found that they were set at 3.75 turns. This could be one reason that it always smelled like it was burning rich. I mean that my eyes would burn If I was stuck at a traffic light. I'll do the idle drop in a little while. It's nice that Honda had some foresight in that they already have pilot screw access holes built right in to the front end.

All in all, the job wasn't bad. In fact (to me), I had a harder time removing the carbs on my old 1200. It seams that I had to have the carb assembly in just the perfect position before they would come out of the engine compartment. Then trying to get back in was another trick.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top