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Lubrication maybe brake fluid
 

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It aint rocket science
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The elasticity of the rubber will spring it back into shape. The edges of the piston are not what I would call sharp enough to cut or damage anything. Dip in brake fluid, spread and install. If it makes one feel better they can pull just an edge over and then with the aid of a pick roll the rest of it around minimizing it touching the piston. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I am the rebuilding the clutch master cylinder and have a question. How does one get this oil seal over the shoulder 0625201714a[1].jpg on the piston without damaging the seal?
0625201714a[1].jpg
0625201714a[1].jpg 0625201714a[1].jpg
 

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Warming rubber parts up with a hair dryer adds elasticity then use your lube to slip it over. If it’s a new seal, it won’t be damaged.
 

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First make sure you install it with the lip facing the right way. Then do it just like you button your shirt or change a tire. It is easier than you are making it be. Like Nike says"Just Do It." 😎
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Done, did not realize the seal was so rugged not to tear.

This got started because the clutch went out last Saturday. There did not seem to be anything wrong with the clutch handle mechanism. I am waiting on a slave cylinder kit as I have read that it is possible for the fluid to get past the oil seal and mix with engine oil at the slave cylinder, not good. Changing oil now just in case.
 

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Done, did not realize the seal was so rugged not to tear.

This got started because the clutch went out last Saturday. There did not seem to be anything wrong with the clutch handle mechanism. I am waiting on a slave cylinder kit as I have read that it is possible for the fluid to get past the oil seal and mix with engine oil at the slave cylinder, not good. Changing oil now just in case.
There is a cavity between the slave and motor oil that has a weep (drain) hole. if either seal would fail the leaking fluid would drain out the hole unless it is plugged. Not likely but possible.
 

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Mine was plugged,if the drain hole is open then you will see fluid on the ground,
Thats job will try your patience,I had to take a piece of round steel and grind a slot in it with a lip to get the inner seal out and use a home made slide hammer.
i think it’s a good idea to check that hole ever couple years for plugging.
Did you try bleeding yours and change the fluid.?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Mine was plugged,if the drain hole is open then you will see fluid on the ground,
Thats job will try your patience,I had to take a piece of round steel and grind a slot in it with a lip to get the inner seal out and use a home made slide hammer.
i think it’s a good idea to check that hole ever couple years for plugging.
Did you try bleeding yours and change the fluid.?


I did bleed the clutch but after reading how the slave cylinder would be a mess after 56K as one poster wrote, I decided to go all the way and rebuild the slave and master cylinders. With 214K+ miles and ignoring the slave, it is time. I have kept up with all mtce but have looked past this and paid for it by getting stranded last weekend, 2nd time in 25 years.
 

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I have kept up with all mtce but have looked past this and paid for it by getting stranded last weekend, 2nd time in 25 years.
How were you stranded? You can't ride it without the clutch?
 

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Plan on being on your back for this repair,if the inner seal we’re good ,it’s not a hard job,just a lot of feeling for things to get off and put back on
 

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Clutch slave work might be easier if you first disconnect fuel pump power and then run the carbs out of gas. Then lay the bike over on its right side.
 

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The alternator will need to come out first,then you can get your hand in there.
 

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Is the battery box removable on the 1500? That might be another avenue of attack....
 

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probably is,but if the alternator haven’t been out in a while it would be a good time to replace the dampers ,two birds with one stone?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Rather than laying the bike on it's side, I screwed 4 hefty hooks in to the rafters of the garage. I used 4 tie down straps. Two went to the frame under the seat and two to the handlebars because I did not trust my Harbor freight lift it was on. Getting that last oil seal out was &^T&&^((&*4 difficult. Once you start it, there is know turning back as I mangled it right quick. Now to re-install. Thanks for all the comments, ten heads are better than one.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
You all know how it goes, fix one thing on a 25 year old machine with 214K miles and something else breaks. After rebuilding the clutch master and slave cylinders, time to bleed the DOT4. Used a mity vac and then tried to pump the handle to find out the cable is leaking. GRRR!!!
Any way, have any you guys changed out the clutch cable? Wondering what Tupperware needs to come off.
 
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