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Trying to change the fork oil on my GL 1500 interstate (non-air) forks and having problems removing the fork caps. I loosened the top support bolts, put penetrating fluid on them and made a tool with a 17mm bolt head. I am using a breaker bar and I am busting the bolts when I try to take it off. I assumeit is right hand threads

Any clue what to do?

:?
 

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It aint rocket science
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Yes, they are RH threads. If they are that tight, Mr. muscles from Brussels (insert PO here) cranked them too much.

Bite the bullet and beg, borrow or steal the correct bit for the job with an impact driver or air wrench.

JD
 

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Hi 51 i take it when you say suport bolts its the pinch bolts a good 17mm hex socket may be what you need instead of the bolt heads you can try taping the caps just for the shock factor it has worked wonders in the past just dont tap to hard and yes there right handed that means there anti/clock wise to open
 

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You are correct on the right hand threads. I had a hard time breaking loose my fork caps the first time I tore my forks apart,(probably the first time they were ever torn down!) after buying my '90 in '09, I actully went online to Sears & bought a 17mm allen socket w/ a 1/2"drive ($$$) to get a good fit.Then used a 1/2" drive ratchet with a "persuader" to break them loose! Both caps were a bear.When assembling them,I made sure I coated those fine threads with "Never Seize" Buy the way,I think Mother Honda calls for a torque setting of only about 25 ft.lbs!
 

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Thanks for all the help. I do have an impact gun but I am scared to use it! I will get a 17mm allen socket and try the breaker bar again. I have it soaking in penetrating fluid now. Maybe we will try tomorrow. Just trying to do simple PM .
This forum and you guys are a great help, Thanks
 

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I had to use an air impact gun on mine to brake them loose. I tried the braker bar thing and I nor my oldest son could get them to move. Good luck on getting yours undone.
 

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beertap tom wrote:
Loosen the top yolk pinch bolt first, if you didn't do it already.
Ditto, as was said, loosen the pinch bolts first and give it a touch with an impact. Just did mine a couple of weeks back. Only thing when using an impact, watch the cap doesn't go for a trip when it comes loose, not a heck of a lot of force on it but enough to throw it if you're not prepared. Once I realized it, onthe second one I just touched the trigger and took it the rest of the way with a ratchet....Mike
 

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I had the same problem with one of my caps, the 1st time I took them off. I ended up using a Grade 8 17mm hex head bolt, 2 nuts, a couple of bolts and had a tack of weld put on across the bolt/nuts to keep them from spinning. I had to get a thicker bead of weld put on, because I ended up breaking the 1st weld tack, when I tried to remove the stubborn cap.:shock:Once I had the thicker bead of weld on, it broke free

Here's a couple of shots of my setup;











Insert the 17mm hex bolt into the cap and use a 17mm socket with breaker bar to loosen the cap. You canslip a pipe over the breaker bar handle for added leverage if need be. I needed to do that the 1st time.







Dusty
 

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Got it!!:applause:Let the caps soak with a liberal amount of penetrating fluid around the caps overnight. Went to the local parts store for the 17MM hex 1/2 drive and put the breaker bar on it came loose. Hardly any effort. Now to draining and measuring and replacing. Hard to concentrate today being 76 and sunny but PM calls. Putting back in Honda SS-8 10w oil. Hopefully will see a difference in the ride.

Thanks for all the tips.
 

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So I just about lost my head when taking off the cap. Spring when flying. Seems that I have 2 springs in each fork and a milled spacer about an inch 1/2 long that looks like it was between both springs. The book calls for one spring. Has this bike been modified?
 

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Different years have different spring / spacer setup.

my 92 had long spring and short spring separated by a washer.

now i have 1 long spring, care of progressive.

You may find the 10w oil a bit thin.
 

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Is there anywhere that I can see if the 1 1/2 aluminum spacers on the top of my springs are stock? The bike is a 93 with 80,000 miles 3th owner. Records show no oil change for forks or mods to the forks.
 

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Sometimes a little heat can help loosen things also if you have the forks out of the bike.
Maybe try boiling some rags in water and wrapping them around the forks at the caps. Do it a few times till the forks are pretty hot to the touch.

When I changed fork seals on the 1100 last year one fork would not come apart no matter what. I heated the slider around the fork seal with hot rags like that and finally got it apart once I got it hot.
 

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Thanks Agnogel,
That is exactly what I needed. No wonder I just about took my head off! I assumed that I had untouched springs. Someone left out a middle washer and added milled aluminum spacers 1 1/2 inches long to the top of the springs. The springs are about 7-8 inches out of the tube. I know the PO rode two up all the time . I am going to install the springs back to specs and see how it goes. My next upgrade will be progressives. I had no signs of leaking but the fluid levels were real low.
I really appreciate the responses.:bow: Attached is the 1993 fork schematic
 

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