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Discussion Starter #1
Have one leaking,should I replace the good one also or just do the bad one and get the Wing in the wind.?
 

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While you are there might as well do both and have fresh seals, bushings and oil in both.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Dave,I was trying to just the one fixed and go riding but I suppose I'll do both,shoot it might fail next week and I'd be pi----.
 

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Dave,I was trying to just the one fixed and go riding but I suppose I'll do both,shoot it might fail next week and I'd be pi----.
My thought is you have most of the work done just doing the one, it's not much more trouble to do both.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'm in the middle of one now but looking at the other one that don't leak and the thought crossed my mind,Huum,could just leave that one and get back to doing what the 1500 does good,GOING DOWN THE ROAD.
Your right Ken,the whole is way over 2 years,heck,I've owned it 14 years and haven't had any seals leaking,have no idea if the pto had them replaced.
Dave what type oil does it need and how much oil in each leg.
 

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Dave what type oil does it need and how much oil in each leg.
I would hope you have a manual but;
12.7oz in the right fork, 12.6 in the left Honda SS8 or equivalent according to the manual. There is a measurement for the correct level if you care to search for it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I do have a massive manual.thanks
 

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It definitely worked for me. I had a leak and after cleaning the seals I have completed 10000km (6000mil) and no leaks so far.
Same here, I had 1 start to leak 2 years ago and made a tool from a plastic bottle and it's still dry, probably 20 to 25,000 miles. The seal wasn't very old at the time so I though I would give it a try.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well got the one apart,the seal was in upside down,😝,putting it back together but it looks like I need to replaced the bushings that I didn't order so i am leaving the other one on right now until I get the bushings and then do both them then.Most likely the other one is in right cause it's fine now .
Curious as to why mine don't have the air fitting in the top,I think it has had the springs replaced along with updated rear,seem I read in the po notes that it had Progressive springs put in it,it is SE model and was suppose to have the valve,I think?
 

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Well got the one apart,the seal was in upside down,😝,putting it back together but it looks like I need to replaced the bushings that I didn't order so i am leaving the other one on right now until I get the bushings and then do both them then.Most likely the other one is in right cause it's fine now .
Curious as to why mine don't have the air fitting in the top,I think it has had the springs replaced along with updated rear,seem I read in the po notes that it had Progressive springs put in it,it is SE model and was suppose to have the valve,I think?
If you check the following link, it is given as optional for your bike.
http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Honda/Motorcycle/1991/GL1500SE+A/FRONT+FORK+EXCEPT+I/parts.html
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Interesting,from what I read the SE was the only model that had them?
I don't care for them,I only ride single so no need for more pressure on the seal,that is if it does put pressure,my 85LTD had them but I always rode double.
 

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Interesting,from what I read the SE was the only model that had them?
I don't care for them,I only ride single so no need for more pressure on the seal,that is if it does put pressure,my 85LTD had them but I always rode double.
While you have them apart, you might want to tap out the top bolt and install a bolt in the center. It makes changing the oil in the forks a whole lot easier via the "dipstick" measurement method. My SE has the Schrader valves, and changing the oil just involves removing that valve and draining the oil, then refilling with a copper tube as a dipstick to measure the depth inside the fork. There's a how to somewhere on this site that tells the correct heights for various models and spring configurations.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I did see that article,but I didn't take the top out.
 

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Having the schrader valves makes assembly a breeze, especially if you really have Progressives springs in front.
That allows you to hold the cap in a vise, invert the fork -without oil- and pull it down onto the cap,. while helper starts the threads
Compare to pushing down on a socket and ratchet with your chest AND hope you dont strip the threads.
Once all assembled and tightened, a squeeze plastic bottle with pointed tip fits into the open hole- add FORK OIL, install valve and enjoy

Fork Oil should be changed every 8000 miles/2 years according to Honda

NOTE IF Prog brand springs you reduce the amount of oil by 2 ounces, due to increased fluid displacement by larger spring coil wire- thats per Progressive tech help and install directions
For the average 1500 thats a tick under 11 ounces of 10 or 15 weight fork oil. Prog suggest 15w which is a bit stiff for some solo riders.

Note- do a clean and lube service to the TRAC anti-dive system built in the forks, that button the brake caliper assembly activates under hard braking
It changes the flow of oil thru the forks, increasing resistance to dive under weight transfer
At least operate the button several times, if you dont go inside.... which will tear the gasket and require another weeks wait,,yeah just push the bottom several times to be sure its free
With new fork oil the TRAC and overall fork operation is going to work a lot better.
 
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