[bigred45]

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Please help! I have a 1996 1500 SE with about 91000 miles on it and I have owned the bike about 2 1/2 years.
About 6 months ago my alternator went out and I installed a compufire alternator and a Westco SVR sealed battery. Before I replaced the battery and alt. I was having the "start on button release" starting problem when the engine was cold and after I replaced them the "start on button release" pretty much stopped.
Now the starting problem is coming back getting harder to start.
The charging system is putting out between 14 volts to 14.5 volts. The battery before I even turn the key on is about 13 volts or more. While cranking the battery voltage drops no lower than 12.5 volts. This problem only occurs the first time I try to start it normally in the morning to ride it to work. What could it be and could it be a vacuum line or in the en richer (choke) or even tided to my second problem?
My other problem is after the engine and exhaust warm up it backfires in the exhaust after I let off the throttle and down shift. I did see some post about this problem and a deceleration solenoid but I have been unable to find them. I even tried to find the solenoid on Cycle Max's OEM parts but no such luck.

Please I need some help. I ride almost every day back and forth to work. :? raying:



Thanks Everyone
Philip

 

[agnogel]

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Hi Philip i would suspect that your sub filter has disingrated and has been sucked into the carbs or the solinoids on the right of the pic with the gray hoses going to them you need to remove the sub filter and check its condition

 

[hummer5205]

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agnogel wrote:

Hi Philip i would suspect that your sub filter has disingrated and has been sucked into the carbs or the solinoids on the right of the pic with the gray hoses going to them you need to remove the sub filter and check its condition

Philip It could be what agnogel has suggested & It could also be the little o-rings that connect the carbs to the intake This is what my 86 se-i did on deseleration ! So I would try both of these things & then no need to trade her in ! Besides you know whats up with your bike & you may not know whats up with the new- to -you bike !

 

[Indianawantsme]

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It could just need Seafoam like mine when it had small backfiring on decel because one slider wasn't quite closing all the way. Didn't take much Seafoam or much time and hasn't done it since.

 

[Racerx]

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Usually backfires in the exhaust is a rich (to much fuel) issue and backfire in the carbs is a to lean condition.

 

[DriverRider]

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As to the starting issue, when was the last time the plugs were changed?

JD

 

[grambo]

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try seafoam or what.and run hard...ifno...then pull the air cleaner box cover and spray and cup with your hand and sparay bothe sides let it suck hard...gooos it...ifno the primaries are comprimised)partially blocked...and do the above 1st

 

[bigred45]

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Ok I knew I would forget to mention some things. When I wrote this I was at work and had been up for 2 days straight.
When I installed the new alt. and battery about 6 or 8 months ago I did replace both the sub and cruise filter. When I removed them both where still in one piece then just fell apart when they were touched.
I also replaced the spark plugs, fuel filter, cleaned the K&N air filter and changed the oil and filter.
I run sea foam in it once or twice a month. I normally don't let her sit more than a day or two without riding her. I ride the bike to work allot.
Once the bike starts and warms up it runs good other than the pop in the exhaust when down shifting. It can be such a pain to get it to start when it is cold.
I am really beginning to think that my problems lie in the carbs. Now all I have to do is find the time to tear it down and look at the carbs and vacuum lines to see if I can find anything.


Thanks everyone! You'll are a great help and I appreciate everyone's time and effort on my problem. :applause:


Philip :waving:

 

[Goldwinger]

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My 97 was doing something similar. Turned out when I had the bike up on the lift it had crushed the seals between the exhaust header and the engine. Once replaced the problem went away. If you have a mechanics stethoscope you can hear the leaking around the header. Good Luck

Now if I can only get the clamp from the header to the collection box to seal 100% I would be a happy man.

 

[93Wing]

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For the pop on decel check your vacuum tube on the left hand side (as you sit on the bike) down at the intake. You will be able to see it easily, it's at the back of the head and about knee level. I had the same problem and this tube was off. Replaced it and the pop on decel went away.



Hard to start, are you choking it to start it? My bike needs to be choked even when it's 100 degrees out. Once it starts I ususally don't leave it choked for more than a few minutes. Once warm she runs like the dickens.....

 

[bigred45]

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93 WING When cold I do put the choke about half way when it is cold. I will check for the vacuum leak or leaks as soon as I get a chance, I work about sixty to eighty hours a week. That is what I am thinking the problem is even with the hard starting.

GOLDWINGER I do have a mechanics stethoscope and I will look for exhaust leaks. My bike doesn't have a stock exhaust. The PO installed it a few years before I bought the bike.

I do appreciate everyone's input on this problem. Now all I have to do is find the time.


Thanks Everyone
Philip

 

[hummer5205]

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bigred you need to put the choke on all the way The only time I don`t need to choke my bike is when the temp outside is 75 or Higher !

 

[bigred45]

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Sorry i have been unable to post the last couple of days I have been stuck at work.

I did manage to look at my bike for about an hour Thursday before I went to work (I wanted to ride it to work) and now the starter is staying engaged. I will really start trouble shouting it on Saturday after I do some work on my sons car.

Wish me luck. This thing is really starting to [email protected]## me off and it would not take much for me to trade it in on a new one after I get it running. I will eventually find the problem.


Thanks everyone,
Philip

P.S. I will keep you'll posted it just takes me time!

 

[ALEX BERECZKY]

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Approach-1. Ditto the diagnosis of a Leak from the Exhaust Manifold Copper-O-rings.

I would add though that you should first verify that the Chrome Nuts (2 per exhaust pipe, to the manifold) are present and snug... They very commonly work their way loose, and fall off.

If the nuts are loose/missing, then you can easily fix that; if they are present, then and only then proceed to removing the exause system as required to replace the Copper-0-rings.

Hint: When re-installing the nuts add a Split Ring Lock Washer to prevent them ever coming loose again; be very careful to not overtorque the nuts, as the studs easily break off.

Approach-2. If #1 does not work, then look for a Nylon-Tee-Joint just forward of the reverse lever on the left side of the bike... if a vacuum line detaches from that, then it can also cause the same problem you're having.

 

[bigred45]

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I did get to start trouble shooting the starter staying engaged today. I pulled the seat and battery. I can put an ohm meter from the positive battery cable end and the ground and there is continuity. I then removed the cable ends from the starter solenoid and the cable end going to the battery to ground had no continuity. I put the ohm meter on the other cable going from the starter solenoid to the starter and ground and there was continuity. I am pretty sure there is a short in the starter. I will try to remove the starter tomorrow.
At least I am getting to try to find the problem with the starter staying engaged. After that maybe I can try to find the problem of hard starting and pop in the exhaust but I have to find the first problem first before I can go any further.
I will keep everyone updated.

Philip

 

[OnaWingAndaPrayer]

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I have had starter run on problems . Before you remove the starter check Starter Relay A and Starter Relay B . I had both of them go bad at different times . If I remember correctly relay A would keep the starter engaged even with the key off .

 

[bigred45]

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Thanks OnaWingandaPrayer. I guess I need to order a repair manual from Cycle Max because I would just be guessing where the relays are. I think a manual would help allot.
I did not get to work on it today because it rained all day (I don't have a garage) and I have to work tomorrow. I am not sure when I will get to work on it.


Thanks Again Everyone,
Philip

 

[bigred45]

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Ok I finally ordered a repair manual from Cycle Max and two head light bulbs today and I got to work on my wing today. I did take the starter to work over the last few weeks and take it apart, clean it up, replace the brushes and bench test. All was fine so I put it back on today. I did not try to start it because I am waiting on the manual so I can find the two relays for the starting system the ones OnaWingandaPrayer was talking about. I will probably replace both of them. I did put the battery on a trickle charger but I did not put it back in the bike yet.
Maybe I will have it running in a couple of weeks.

Thanks everyone,
Philip

 

[satan]

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Hey Bigred (Philip)... Those starter relays are easy to find:

- Follow the dark wire from the positive battery post. It stops at Starter Relay A (just forward of the battery, and right above the 55A dogbone fuse; there'll be a 30A fuse integrated into the side of the relay assembly to help ensure you're looking at the correct one...)

- Then do the same 'wire-chase' thing from the starter.. the big black wire from the starter stops at Starter Relay B (This one won't have the fuse; it'll be located just aft of the oil-fill hole along the bottom frame rail -- look for the big black wires)

 

[Redeye1620]

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Goldwinger wrote:

My 97 was doing something similar. Turned out when I had the bike up on the lift it had crushed the seals between the exhaust header and the engine. Once replaced the problem went away. If you have a mechanics stethoscope you can hear the leaking around the header. Good Luck

Now if I can only get the clamp from the header to the collection box to seal 100% I would be a happy man.

GOLDWINGER TOOK THE WORDS OUT OF MY MOUTH. POPPING IN THE EXHAUST MY BE DUE TO LEAKING HEADERS.(sory, the caps lock was on) Listen where the pipes are bolted to the manifolds. I would start there before tearing into the carbs. The next place to look would be vacumm leaks......-Rich