Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums banner

Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
109 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
imported post

Would a vacuum leak only effect low speeds? I removed carbs and cleaned them recently. Now I have a stutter starting around 45 mph. If I turned the cruise on it still does it. I have checked every hose i can see and no faulty ones. I can get on her and hit the gears and it pulls like a train but when I level off at say 60 it starts to drop about 3 mph then pick itself back up. It like when has a constant vacuum then it does it but only at higher speeds. At idle she is spot on I have noticed it when i hit 4th and 5th gears, and i am holding her stready. I am at my whits end. I do not want to take her to the Doctor, but its looking more like that. Any diagnosis would be great Thanks and God Bless. I have tried the spraying of carb cleaner and propane and no change in idle. One thing i thought was odd when it drops mph the tac doesnt show it that i dont understand.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8 Posts
imported post

If your GW is not fuel injected and you did not sinc the carbs you could be running into problems there. A good way to check for vacume issues is to spray carb cleaner around your hoses and see if you hear a change. Have you checked you fuel filter also?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
109 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
imported post

Yes, I checked the filter and it was still clean. I have sync the carbs already also.
 

·
Lost on this *****
Joined
·
4,317 Posts
imported post

You could try a couple strong doses of Seafoam.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,437 Posts
imported post

I think you are running a little lean.

Try choking it a little to see if you can get the bogg/stumble to goes away.

Did you check or re-adjust your float levelwhen you had the carbs off?

How is second and third gear?

Did you check the operation of the carbs accelerator pump?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
109 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
imported post

I didnt check float level, i dont have the float level tool thing. Choking is does seem to help quite a bit. I did the seafoam. It doesnt do it in 2nd or 3rd the faster I go the owrse it gets, maybe cause its pulling more air and making it more lean? The accelerator pump is great lots of flow when i twist it.
 

·
Postpubescent member
Joined
·
36,382 Posts
imported post

It doesn't sound like a carb sync problem to me, not at highway speeds where the sync really doesn't have much if any effect on the engine. Could be a problem with the gear position switch or the wiring between it and the ECU. The switch controls the ignition timing through its input to the ECU. It could be carburetors too but not likely the sync. You might want to check out the hot air intake valve, if it's not solidly open it could be switching the air from cold to hot just by intake suction. If that was happening it would change the power output.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
156 Posts
imported post

I suspect it is your float levels are incorrect.since it seems that the carbs are what you worked on.

And yes it will cause probs at only certain engine speeds.

IE:( it idles perfectly)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,437 Posts
imported post

Sounds like you EGR valve is allowing too much air at cruising speeds. Just kidding.

Choking is does seem to help quite a bit.
Synced and idles fine. 2nd and 3rd gear no problem observed or complaints. 4th and 5th bogs at cruising speed.

At 2,500 rpms cruising, there would be not much throttle orengine loadingin 5th gear. No complaints in 2nd gear, but loading could have even less and couldmask a problem, if it was even there.

I would try and recheck the above, but put the bike on the center stand and go through the gears to spin the wheel with no load. Try and simulate the lower gears with the same RPMs. Play around with the acceleration also. Choke too.

The gear indicator switch does tie into the carb ECM and does control two solenoidsthat adds air in the carb inthe higher gears (I think). But, these aresmall vacuum hoses. The green solenoids are under the right fairing pocket. If you are running lean, this could run you leaner.

With your air cleaner off, are the blacker plastic sliders openingin unison?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
109 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
imported post

Yes the sliders both slide evenly and I just sprayed a shot of wd on them and they both move easily with my finger. Im wondering i just rebuilt my fuel valve not to long ago, and since it opens by vacuum from manifold if there might be a problem in opening up enough when the bike idles down at cruising speed. But when i get on it there is more vacuum and this may allow it to open fully during acceleration. But it ran fine before i pulled the carbs to replace the bowl gasket. I am going to get a caliper and check the float heights since i did remove them to clean the carbs, maybe i bent one of the tangs and didnt know it. If its not the fuel valve or floats then it I may have to send it to the doctor. (sigh).
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,437 Posts
imported post

Check the PVC valve and Purge valve. Sorry, I just kidding again.

Get that WD oil off them sliders. Spray them down with carb cleanerto dry them; otherwise, they will later stick and cause you problems. Check/verify the operation of the sliders with the engine running. You know the covers over the diaphragm and spring goes on only one way due to the vent hole.

I doubt very much that the vacuum to your petcock auto fuel valve would cause you any problem. Fuel starvation of the bowls would be noticeable at high power, higher rpms where fuel demand would be the highest. If the fuel delivery rate can notkeep up there, then you starve and run out of fuel.

Actually, when you "get on it" vacuum goes down. The highest vacuum is at idle. If it pulls like a train, you do not have a fuel delivery problem with the auto fuel valve.

Is you performance in 1-3 gear truly acceptable? That is cruising at low speeds, high speeds, light and hard acceleration with no stumbles or hesitations? But your problem is only in 4+ gears say at cruise?

What a true pain to go through them carbs. The doctor will definitely take your money. Sounds like you are actually pretty versed in working and disassembling Humpty Dumpty, but doctors can make mistakes also. Carbs really only need that cleaning on the inside and inspecting a few parts. Other than that, there is nothing much to them, IMO.

You do have a service manual, right?

Put it on the center and continue to knock your brainout. Be you own doctor.

For hesitation purposes, many have always recommended SeaFoam, and many have installeda trigger wheel.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
109 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
imported post

Yea when i run through the gears straight through there is not problem. Its when I level it off and either set the cruise or hold the throttle. I know it wasnt doing this beofre i removed the carbs so I am pretty sure its something I did. Would the floats effect high speed performance, like I think they would? What about the pilot screw, or is that mainly at idle?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
266 Posts
imported post

I'm not sure about 1500's but I have GL1100 that was doing the same thing after carb rebuild. Float levels were set to 15.5 mm it would idle nice but get on the road it started smelling like it was running rich and run crappy in 4th and 5th gear. Pulled carbs and found float on #1 at 5mm, reset float level tried again. The problem came back so I pulled the carbs for the second time and seen the same issue on #1 float level. I have spare floats replaced this float and the problem went away apparently the tang for setting the level was failing. I'd look in to the floats on you carbs seems to be where the problem is pointing to.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top