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Any chance of doing a write-up on this? it sure would be useful for anyone else thinking of this job. :waving:
Any chance of doing a write-up on this? it sure would be useful for anyone else thinking of this job. :waving:
1500 rearend on 1200 upgrade
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Just finished a 1500 rear wheel and final drive upgrade on my 85 Aspy 100 kilometers on it and no problems.The saddle hight is a little higher because of the 16wheel in the back but it sure shifts smoother a lot less clunk when I change gears and hardly any when the speed and R.P.Ms are right.The change up wasn't that bad a job really worth doing I think will take it for good run this weekend to see how it performs. Ride With Pride!
Just finished a 1500 rear wheel and final drive upgrade on my 85 Aspy 100 kilometers on it and no problems.The saddle hight is a little higher because of the 16wheel in the back but it sure shifts smoother a lot less clunk when I change gears and hardly any when the speed and R.P.Ms are right.The change up wasn't that bad a job really worth doing I think will take it for good run this weekend to see how it performs. Ride With Pride!
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Well done. I'd love to see a picture of this and read how you did it. :clapper:
Well done. I'd love to see a picture of this and read how you did it. :clapper:
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I also have a 85 aspy. Just wondering why the upgrade? :stumped:Are they better, stronger, etc., etc., etc., then the stock rear end?
I also have a 85 aspy. Just wondering why the upgrade? :stumped:Are they better, stronger, etc., etc., etc., then the stock rear end?
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Tj, congratulations and many happy miles. This winter I'm planning on tearing my rear end apart ( well, the bike's rear actually), to grease and service. I'm alittle concerned about what I'll find my bike makes a sort of clicking sound when you roll it across the floor, and it definitely has a bit of a clunk when pulling away from stoplights. So if you have time, any advice to the group would be appreciated.
Tj, congratulations and many happy miles. This winter I'm planning on tearing my rear end apart ( well, the bike's rear actually), to grease and service. I'm alittle concerned about what I'll find my bike makes a sort of clicking sound when you roll it across the floor, and it definitely has a bit of a clunk when pulling away from stoplights. So if you have time, any advice to the group would be appreciated.
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Clunk, here, also. JUST can't put my finger on it. Seems to be at about the first 1/2 to 3/4 revolution of rear wheel. Quite loud. Any thots?
Clunk, here, also. JUST can't put my finger on it. Seems to be at about the first 1/2 to 3/4 revolution of rear wheel. Quite loud. Any thots?
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Could very well be the rubber cushions in the wheel mating flange. Seems that once theyre worn, all of the movement from the entire driveline ,(gear mesh, u-joints,splined shafts, etc.), gets amplified.
Could very well be the rubber cushions in the wheel mating flange. Seems that once theyre worn, all of the movement from the entire driveline ,(gear mesh, u-joints,splined shafts, etc.), gets amplified.
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Been in there. Splines, brgs, cushions perfect. ?????? Sounds, acts like a 2" steel ball rolls from the front of sidebag, to back, from every departure from stop. Never does it once rolling. Go figure
Been in there. Splines, brgs, cushions perfect. ?????? Sounds, acts like a 2" steel ball rolls from the front of sidebag, to back, from every departure from stop. Never does it once rolling. Go figure
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Oregonwinger wrote:
Oregonwinger wrote:
I think your problem is going to be the torsional damper in the final gear shaft in the transmission. If the cam, wears or the spring weakens, the cam can jump. If it wears enough you could get a multiple machinegun sound out of it.Been in there. Splines, brgs, cushions perfect. ?????? Sounds, acts like a 2" steel ball rolls from the front of sidebag, to back, from every departure from stop. Never does it once rolling. Go figure
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Hey exavid on July 22/05 you wrote in reply Oregonwinger wrote:
My question is what is this sound a precurser to that is what isdamage can be done from this,and what is the fix for it? Thanks .
Ride With Pride! TJ859
Hey exavid on July 22/05 you wrote in reply Oregonwinger wrote:
I think your problem is going to be the torsional damper in the final gear shaft in the transmission. If the cam, wears or the spring weakens, the cam can jump. If it wears enough you could get a multiple machinegun sound out of it.Been in there. Splines, brgs, cushions perfect. ?????? Sounds, acts like a 2" steel ball rolls from the front of sidebag, to back, from every departure from stop. Never does it once rolling. Go figure
My question is what is this sound a precurser to that is what isdamage can be done from this,and what is the fix for it? Thanks .
Ride With Pride! TJ859
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This problem happens about 1/2 wheel turn, even light throttle. By then, the drive line has turned 1 1/2 turns. We can definitely hear it at the wheel, strongest on the left side.
This problem happens about 1/2 wheel turn, even light throttle. By then, the drive line has turned 1 1/2 turns. We can definitely hear it at the wheel, strongest on the left side.
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If that is indeedthe problem it's in the transmission. The cause could be a weakened spring that forces the cam and ramp together or it could be wear on the mating surfaces of the cam and the ramp. I don't see how it can damage anything else, eventually it might start slipping more and more and have to be repaired, but it's likely it can continue as is for quite some time. Taking it easy getting underway would help. It might be possible to prove the problem by pulling the rear wheel backwards with the bike in the lowest gear. It would take considerable pressure, similar to the forward torque applied by the engine when the sound is heard. If you could apply enough pressure, it should feel like a ratchet jumped, there should be a jump of a couple inches along the circumference of the tire. If you have access to a parts diagram of the engine, take a look at the final shaft, you'll see the cam that is pressed to the back of the final gear with a spring. This cam absorbs torsional pulses from the engine to prevent chattering in the system and reduces shock in the gears. Normally the cam stays at the bottom of the ramp and moves very little, but if you where to drop the clutch or make a serious shifting error, this joint is there reduce the shock on the transmission gears and the drive line. If the cam can go over the top of the ramp, it will snap down on the other side and work from there with the relationship of the shaft and gear now being 180 degrees from where it started. That 180 degree shift may be the bump you're feeling on acceleration from a standing start. It might not, but it's a good possibility since there's really nothing else in the drive line if the U-joint, rubber/aluminum/driven flange assembly, final drive pinion and ring and the splines are okay that could give such a thump.
If that is indeedthe problem it's in the transmission. The cause could be a weakened spring that forces the cam and ramp together or it could be wear on the mating surfaces of the cam and the ramp. I don't see how it can damage anything else, eventually it might start slipping more and more and have to be repaired, but it's likely it can continue as is for quite some time. Taking it easy getting underway would help. It might be possible to prove the problem by pulling the rear wheel backwards with the bike in the lowest gear. It would take considerable pressure, similar to the forward torque applied by the engine when the sound is heard. If you could apply enough pressure, it should feel like a ratchet jumped, there should be a jump of a couple inches along the circumference of the tire. If you have access to a parts diagram of the engine, take a look at the final shaft, you'll see the cam that is pressed to the back of the final gear with a spring. This cam absorbs torsional pulses from the engine to prevent chattering in the system and reduces shock in the gears. Normally the cam stays at the bottom of the ramp and moves very little, but if you where to drop the clutch or make a serious shifting error, this joint is there reduce the shock on the transmission gears and the drive line. If the cam can go over the top of the ramp, it will snap down on the other side and work from there with the relationship of the shaft and gear now being 180 degrees from where it started. That 180 degree shift may be the bump you're feeling on acceleration from a standing start. It might not, but it's a good possibility since there's really nothing else in the drive line if the U-joint, rubber/aluminum/driven flange assembly, final drive pinion and ring and the splines are okay that could give such a thump.
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Thanks exavid for the quick reply.Since the 1500 wheel upgrade to my 1200 the machinegun sound you described has decreased and withwhat yousay in your reply to my question I won't worry about it for now and I will take it easy on lift off.
Thanks
Ride With Pride! TJ859
Thanks exavid for the quick reply.Since the 1500 wheel upgrade to my 1200 the machinegun sound you described has decreased and withwhat yousay in your reply to my question I won't worry about it for now and I will take it easy on lift off.
Thanks
Ride With Pride! TJ859
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