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Remember reading about this theseveral days ago. Can't place the search I was in at the time. Tried differentones,just not hitting it right.It must be that age issue creeping up again. Noticed this morning this is starting to happen, sounds like its cranking normal but starts when button is released. There was a list of things to check, voltage during cranking, lose or corroded connections. Don't remember if there was anything else. I'd like to thank everyone for the wealth of knowledge from this forum.
 

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This is a classic symptom ofinsufficient voltage during cranking.When cranking, the voltage drops so low that the electronic ignition fails to operate properly. Itcould be a weak/defective battery, bad connections, damaged cables, excessive current to starter (i.e. starter problems), etc. It is just a matter of eliminating the potential causes. I'd start with the battery and its connections; this is the most common cause.
 

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This is starting to look like a battery issue, came out from work tried starting and it did the same thing. Got home and restarted and it started normal as with a fully charged battery. Seem it does it after it sits awhile. Still going to check voltage and for loose connections.
 

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Damm you guys are good..
I've never heard or read about a release start.. I guess I've always had a good battery and connections.....
 

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Thanks, Rudy this is thethreadthat I was looking for but couldn't find.:waving:
 

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I thought it did that by design. Granted my battery is probably not up to snuff but I geta real fast crank on the starter but only fires when button is released. I don't know what kind of amps the ignition needs to see but my starter isn't laboring even the slightest.
 

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I have noticed the same phenomenon, but chalked it up to me being new to the wing scene. I now have read this and the other thread and have a theory to throw out there.
The 1500 uses the starter for the reverse drive. I know there has to be a relay or some such switch so the engine knows the start button is being activated for purposes other than cranking the engine. My thought was that maybe something is malfunctioning that should be putting voltage to the coils or other firing mechanism. I know on older car engines, the ballast resistor is bypassed during the starting circuit in order to create a hotter spark. Is there something of this nature built in to the computer of the 1500. It just seems to me that there is no ignition spark during cranking, but releasing the button applies this fire as the crankshaft is still rotating.
Oh well, probably just a brain bubble on my part. As long as it starts, it is not really a problem. But, I have had occasion to have to start it with a low battery and the starter wouldn't spin fast enough to achieve this inertia.
 

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mooseye wrote:
....My thought was that maybe something is malfunctioning that should be putting voltage to the coils or other firing mechanism....
The proofto the crux of the problem is that known good battery that is fully charged eliminates this issue... for example, when the compufire alternator (which apparently more fully charges a battery) combined withits recommended battery is used, the problem goes away..
 

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sandiegobrass wrote:
mooseye wrote:
....My thought was that maybe something is malfunctioning that should be putting voltage to the coils or other firing mechanism....
The proofto the crux of the problem is that known good battery that is fully charged eliminates this issue... for example, when the compufire alternator (which apparently more fully charges a battery) combined withits recommended battery is used, the problem goes away..
I may accept this explanation, but I would still like to know why.
Surely, Honda did not design the machine to notfire until the operator releases the start button with a stock battery???
 

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I had been thinking that I had 'start on release' symptoms, but today I tried just holding the button and it cranked up just fine.

If low voltage was a problem, then holding the button on would only drop the voltage further, right?

Seems to me that a spin and release may be a good way to practice starting, because if it starts on release after a very short jab the battery is being stressed less.
 

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Yes, I went there first, put the trickle charger on it, had a green light in 2 minutes, it may be getting weak though. Atthis point it's onlyhappens after sitting at night or after work. If I've been riding and stopping forcouple hours, starts right up.Will be going through it this weekend in between riding. Other half is out of town sothe honey do's will be on the back burner.
 

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Replaced the battery and it starts right up. If other are having the samesymptomof starting on button releaseyou may very wellbe looking at a new battery
 

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SD Brass said:
The proofto the crux of the problem is that known good battery that is fully charged eliminates this issue... for example, when the compufire alternator (which apparently more fully charges a battery) combined withits recommended battery is used, the problem goes away..
I do not profess to be an electronics expert or an electrician, but................if a poor connection exists somewhere in the circuit,a weak battery causes the symtoms while a fully charged battery does not, could you not make a case for there being just more voltage/amperage to cross the bad connection, thereby starting normally?Isn't it possible toclean all connections (including the start switch), therebyreducing resistance and a weaker battery would now do the trick? My .02
 

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I went through the exact same headache this summer. Didn't even realize it was an issue until I read a thread on it. Then, sure enough, the battery finished dying shortly afterward. Of the many responses in the thread the wisest words were "Time for a new battery". It was. Starts like a champ now. I suggest an AGM.
 

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L8ndeb wrote:
SD Brass said:
The proofto the crux of the problem is that known good battery that is fully charged eliminates this issue... for example, when the compufire alternator (which apparently more fully charges a battery) combined withits recommended battery is used, the problem goes away..
I do not profess to be an electronics expert or an electrician, but................if a poor connection exists somewhere in the circuit,a weak battery causes the symtoms while a fully charged battery does not, could you not make a case for there being just more voltage/amperage to cross the bad connection, thereby starting normally?Isn't it possible toclean all connections (including the start switch), therebyreducing resistance and a weaker battery would now do the trick? My .02
Yes.. that is true... and what hasn't been said yet goes right along with your premise of "therebyreducing resistance" As batteries age (or are abused with deep discharges) they develop more and more internal resistance (that acts just like external resistance)... The battery seems to be just fine, but under heavy load, the voltage drops below normal... In fact, this is one of the often overlooked advantages of the AGM type battery (like the oddessy), is its very low internal resistance...
 

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Point taken Brass. I was only trying to point out that before blaming a bad battery, I would make sure all connections/switches are clean. Ya know what happens when more voltage/amperage is pushed through a bad connection or dirty switch. Take care.
 
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