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Hi can any of you clever guys help me try solve this problem?? When trying to start the bike from cold it wont start at all with any choke,even just a little bit and it wont go. It eventually starts without the choke but coughs and splutters for a while and while warming up spitsand splutters like its running on five or less cylinders small puffs of black smoke come out exhaust. Once engine is warm it seems to run fine but has a flat spot between 2 and 3 thousand revs any ideas??:?It also smells of petrol quite strong when trying to start, Do you think it would benefit from new plugs?? PS I aint very mechanically minded so bear with me please....;)
 

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Welcome to the forum bigjok :action:

I'm not certain of thesolution due to the symptoms you describe. Has the bike been lying up over winter ? I am sure a Guru will be along soon to help you out.

Cheers for now

Eric
 

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Its been sitting a couple of months but i have always went and started it once a week or so... It smells of petrol as well when trying to start it.
 

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hi bigjok and welcome to the forum you will find that the 1500s dont like the cold weather, when starting the bike put the choke full on and dont touch the trottle if it fires let it run for about 2min on full choke then lower it to half way until the temp guage starts to rise, as for new plugs it problery could do with a full service when was this done last if your not mechanically minded you might want for some one else to do this for you as there is quiet a lot of stripping to be doneif you have a look at the british goldwing owners site they may have a guy to recomand near you for this who is up to speed on the wings not nesseralya honda dealer i dont belive they know what they are doing or youcan pm silverfox he may have a contact
 

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If you smell fuel and there is black smoke from the exhaust and the engine won't start even with just a little choke, there is an over rich condition at the carb. There are many reasons for it and the biggest one is carbon /varnish build up on the fuel metering circuits. Another condition could be a choke circuit that is sticking in the (more closed than open) position when not in use. 62,000 miles is not a lot of miles on that bike, however, the years also take their toll and fuel vapors building up over time will collect on metal and cause a sticky varnish on moving parts.

Look at the carb and operate the choke to be sure all the linkage and moving parts go full stop. Inspect the choke cable for loseness. If possible, inspect the carb throat for heavy black varnish / carbon buildup. It's a good sign that it's time for a dose of Seafoam cleaner or manually remove the carb and clean it..
 

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Would Redex poured into the carb do the same thing as seafoam?? I have never heard of seafoam before but i have heard of guys using redex to clean the carbs??
 

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The redex is mostly a carbon cleaner that the soot ect that builds up in the cylinders we cant get the seafoam on this side of the pond but you can try ebay i found that the carb cleaners here are not so hot , have you had the bike serviced lately and the carbs synced
 

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never had it serviced yet i will get it done and get the carbs balanced hopefully that will help.......
 

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joc when you say notserviced yet do you know when the last service was done
 

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I dont know when it was last done although I know the guy who had it previously had it serviced every 4000 miles, But when i bought the bike it had sat outside for quite a long time. I bought it from ebay without seeing it. It was a good price so i was happy enough to spend a bit on it if need be.I went out today and it started without choke no problem but it is pretty mild today compared to the past few days so i am wondering if its possibly just the cold that has made it a bit damp??
 

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Another thing to keep in mind is that these GL1500 needs to have a continuous strong battery.

This ignition system does not like lower voltage with the drain on the battery during starting. Many times the engine will start just as the starter button is released.

If the battery is slightly low, it will not start the engine. Sure the engine cranks, but the ignition system to fire the spark plugs is too low. Many use atrickle charger to keep the battery fully charged. Also, many like the more powerful Odyssey/AGM battery.

It does sound like you have fuel fouled the plugs. You may want to take them out and clean them.

Next time it iscold and will not start. Stop and try to jump start or put on a battery charger to see if that immediately corrects your starting problem.
 

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Smells of fuel does it, hard to start, black smoke, OK... these are very classic symptoms of a very common misdiagnosed problem.

Vacuum petcock diaphragm tear.

If you tear the diaphragm in the vacuum petcock, fuel will be drawn into the middle right cylinder, fuel will also not be passing to the carburetors because the vacuum is too weak to open the petcock. In extreme situations you may see raw fuel come out the exhaust.

Check middle right hand sparkplug for fouling.

There are rebuild kits available for the petcock, but issues have been reported with their quality.

Honda sells the petcock assembly.

The petcock is located in the shelter directly to the right of the fuel filler cap, you may also notice a dampness under the petcock after riding, another sign of a leaking diaphragm.

Mine was misdiagnosed by three different dealers, until I got frustrated and found it myself.

Yes you do need a battery that is fully charged for prompt easy starting, but a GL1500 will bump start even with a marginal battery
 

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Ton 96,
If you tear the diaphragm in the vacuum petcock, fuel will be drawn into the middle right cylinder, fuel will also not be passing to the carburetors because the vacuum is too weak to open the petcock. In extreme situations you may see raw fuel come out the exhaust.
The vacuum petcock is only a valve that opens and closes to flow to the carb, right?

So, flow to the carb will then be limited by the needle and seat by the float. If full, no flow.

But, the vacuum has to come from somewhere, and I guess I never really thought of the vacuum line sucking fuel. I guess a small diaphragm leak would actually suck the gas into the manifold and there would be no tell tail sign of fuel leaking on the ground since the vacuum would be sucking air through the air drain line along with the fuel. Good point.

When the key is turned on, the fuel pump runs for about a second. If the diaphragm is leaking, I guessit would then have a tell tale sign of leakage on the ground.
 

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Foosman(5) wrote:
Ton 96,
If you tear the diaphragm in the vacuum petcock, fuel will be drawn into the middle right cylinder, fuel will also not be passing to the carburetors because the vacuum is too weak to open the petcock. In extreme situations you may see raw fuel come out the exhaust.
The vacuum petcock is only a valve that opens and closes to flow to the carb, right?

So, flow to the carb will then be limited by the needle and seat by the float. If full, no flow.

But, the vacuum has to come from somewhere, and I guess I never really thought of the vacuum line sucking fuel. I guess a small diaphragm leak would actually suck the gas into the manifold and there would be no tell tail sign of fuel leaking on the ground since the vacuum would be sucking air through the air drain line along with the fuel. Good point.

When the key is turned on, the fuel pump runs for about a second. If the diaphragm is leaking, I guessit would then have a tell tale sign of leakage on the ground.
The petcock is just a valve, vacuum operated.



The vacuum to operate that valve comes up a rubber hose from the intake to the middle cylinder on the right bank of cylinders.



The possibility I discuss is that the supplied vacuum to the valve may be low enough to not open the petcock (because of the diaphragm tear), but is enough to pull fuel into the cylinder, after all there is a spring in the petcock to ensure its closure when vacuum is withdrawn, i.e. shutting down the engine.



No there won't necessarily be a tell tale sign of leakage on the ground as there is a tray under the petcock to catch leakage, most of the time any leakage caught just eveporates, leaving the strong fuel smell.
 

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No there won't necessarily be a tell tale sign of leakage on the ground as there is a tray under the petcock to catch leakage, most of the time any leakage caught just eveporates, leaving the strong fuel smell.
Thanks for refresher course.

Been there, done it, and forgot.It's definitely not what we know (or forgot), its what we share.

They say life is a learning experience...some just have to learn it twice.
 

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Thanks for all the help guys I have kept the battery charged up and it has started no problem evry time i have tried it, Full choke and not touching throttle starts first turn. I think it could have been something to do with battery being down a little as i have an immobilser fitted so after 2 or 3 days this would probably run the battery down so i have now fitted a trickle charger and presto its fine thanks again guys...............:clapper:
 

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If the battery is running down that quick, do an output test on the alternator and a load test on the battery, chances are one or the other is not going to last long.

But the good news is, you can push start a 1500.
 

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bigjok, glad your problem sort of gone away.

You will eventually figure that old woman out when she acts up... or you will learn how to burp that baby when she needsit. And, when that bitch act up, you will learn how to man-handle her. But, never think you are totally in control.

But the good news is, you can push start a 1500.
Even when she gets big and fat, I am not going to push her fat ass just to get here going. Did that, and itabout gives you a heart attack and almost dropped that big cow on the ground. I wish I could give her the boot in the ass (kick-start). Had to get the electrical paddle out to get her engine thumping again.
 

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Foosman(5) wrote:
bigjok, glad your problem sort of gone away.

You will eventually figure that old woman out when she acts up... or you will learn how to burp that baby when she needsit. And, when that bitch act up, you will learn how to man-handle her. But, never think you are totally in control.

But the good news is, you can push start a 1500.
Even when she gets big and fat, I am not going to push her fat ass just to get here going. Did that, and itabout gives you a heart attack and almost dropped that big cow on the ground. I wish I could give her the boot in the ass (kick-start). Had to get the electrical paddle out to get her engine thumping again.
:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D
 

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Hi this my first post to this board. I hope someone can help me with my 1998 1500.

As in this thread I am having problems starting my bike when cold. It starts fine above 70 F. between 50 and 70 I can only start it with a boost charger. Below 50 I can not get it started at all. Using a car battery is of little help. If I blow heat near the ECM for 1/2 hour it starts fine. I have replaced the ECM with no change, also reseated all the connectors is that area, swapped out the relay, and even tried starting fluid. I have sprayed WD40 in the kill switch and jumped power directly to the input of the ECM. My bike does have a trigger wheel. I have not tried push starting it as I am not sure how to get it back up my drive if it didn't start.

After I get it started on a given day I have no more problems till it sits over night.

Thanks
 
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