yer that seem the best way to shorten the drive shafts , but its the wishbone that have got me pickled:?don't think i would ever get them to run true , and they are cast so i could cut them but not weld them, any ideas ?
thanks for the link skip, i have been thinking like you , im going to do what you said and build fresh ones , think i will have a look on ebay bushes , what width should the back end be , overall ? ,
and i agree that text was hard to read , sould have stuck to black.
I would say 58" (1.48) & the body 60" (1.53)
That's 39" = 1 meter?
Do your own math to "mm"
Run search on web for decaged Jag rear end.
This should keep you busy for a while
thanks for those sizes skip, im in two minds , im not happy with this back end ! but i have a man who would like to buy it off me for his 1500,this way i could start from scratch again and do it right , too be truthfull this was not the axel to use the diff is fine but them heavey wishbone are cast and the back end is really heavey, this axel is off an xj8 , the one to use is off an xj6 this is the axel in all those link that you put up for me, so i bought on off ebay last night ,this one hs the brakeson the diff,it should be here by thursday , looking forward to starting again :cheesygrin:
so i will keep the pictures comming and you guys can all keep me right
skip , i will trying and get it down to 58" , how did you possition the diff ? i mean how long is your bike from front wheel to back wheel ? as i need to get this right , as the body would not fit, thanks
got it about 2 hours ago, i think this one is the one to use as it's lighter , it has a ratio of 3.058 , will this be ok? the propshaft houseing works in my favour as it's over the halfway point , this means less of an angle for the prop
it looks alot easyer to shorten as it round steel tube
calipers with handbrake leavers , note the off center prop
Not pretty, but good starting point.
Move it over bout 2.5"- 3" then shorten as needed.
The body I have is 60" wide, but the Trike is 65"
was able to shorten only 3" as an after thought.
Ihave not measured this axel yet , but the last one was 69" wide, you said 58" would be good for that body (mould) of yours , so i will work out the math later on today, i would like to keep it over to one side for the prop shaft, But would it be ok with one wishbone longer than the other?, or would i have to make a bed plate so that the wishbones were the same length and the diff was over by 2" or 3" then one drive shaft would be around 3" longer than the other one ? what do you guys think?:?
i'm doing the straight axle build. but on my first trike straight axle i left the rear end centered and it worked great. your shaft is already off center some so you may can get by with cutting both axles and tubes the same. i think you would be safe to do that.
but all the rear ends on here are different only you can decide which way to go. your there and you can mock it up and see how much of an angle you have. just my 2 cents worth.
i think 57"-58" and that includes to the outside edge of your tires. that would give you 1"-1.5" on each side for tire clearance. so your measurements will have to be made with your tire and wheel choice. your rear end length will be several inchs shorter than the 57 or 58 inchs.
would have been nice for you to have gotten the frame cage with the rear end. would have probably save you a lot of fabrication time.
and the gear ratio is very close. remember the height of the tire will affect the final ratio. the height of the bikes rear tire is a good place to start.
24" or 25" height should put you in the ballpark
thanks for the advice , i striped it down today and measured the offset on the prop it's 1 1/2" to the right , i alsothink it would be easyer and saferto cutting both wishbone the same length , , i measured the backend with tyres on to day came in at67" and need to get it down to 58 ish , thats 9" too loose , 4 1/2" off each shaft and wishbone , the hard part is cuttingthem square:?
i'm sure those tubes are sleeved so you can just grind the weld out of one end. get it straight by measureing from the other end and weld it back after you cut the right amount out. just like a drive shaft.
i believe i'd grind the inside weld out less chance of getting the alinement wrong.
i spent around 4 hours to night shortening the wishbones , took out 4 1/2" , ground a large champher on both edges and clamped it in a piece of angle iron, and tacked it , then checked the measurements and for square , then ran a big fat weld round and ground it smooth, in total i have lost 9" let me know what you lads think
Hi. Just about finished my latest trike and have put led's on the rear fenders.
Problem is they don't draw enough power to make the flasher unit work so my question is is where are the flasher units on a 2002 1800, is there separate ones for the hazards and how many wires go into it.
Cheers Bash
I purchase a body from Skip that was for a 1500 so will have to do alot of cutting a nd glass work to make it work for this 1800. Will do pictures as I go along. Here is what I'm starting with.
Looking around in basement, looking for a chainsaw I misplaced, found a like new Odyssey PC680 battery bought less than a month after I bought the one that is in our 1997 GL1500 Trike. I had almost forgotten it, I had bought it for a bike that I no longer own, so I got to thinking, build a...
My 2005 Goldwing 1800 came with a Voyager trike kit but I have not installed it. I watched the youtube video and it looks very easy to install and remove but I'm just not sure I will use it.. Anyone have opinions? Anyone looking for a nice trike kit?
I have uploaded a series of photos in my album...Basically, a front-engined, rear wheel drive trike, using a Mustang 2 front end (built for a 32 ford), and a 57" drive shaft to the rear wheel...Entire frame is hand built...Reverse is supplied by a 4+ hp electric motor belted via a centrifugal...
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