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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2004 with 87,000 mi is not charging. I know the 1500 had alternator problems, but not the 1800. Any ideas?
 

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Gregarious Greeter
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Check battery connections and make sure they are tight. Check alternator and ground connections. Being mechanical, anything can go bad, including alternators.
 

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Still Learning
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As with any charging system, there is failure rates. You need to test it to find out if its the alternator or the battery failure. You can pull the battery and take it to an autoparts store ask them to charge it and load test it to see if that is your problem but still you will need to test the system with a multimeter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
1800 alternator

2004 with 87,000 mi is not charging. I know the 1500 had alternator problems, but not the 1800. Any ideas?
This happened when I was going down the road. I have a volmeter installed on the bike & it just started discharging, got down to 7 volts. The battery conection are tight & it is taking a charge. How can I check the alternator output?
 

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Still Learning
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Good to hear you have the voltmeter on the bike.
Do you have a multimeter?
Do you have the repair manual?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yes I have a digital meter capable of reading amps. I don't have a service manual. Looking at the test procedure on Goldwing Forum, it says to remove fuse B, and put the leads between the upper and lower fuse block terminals. What terminals, where? That the fuse came out of? Also does fuse B just pull out? I don't want to break it.
 

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Check Main fuse "B" This is a 120 Amp fuse between alternator and battery. If it is blown the alternator can not charge the battery . The battery will use whatever charge it is holding to power the bike through main fuse "A" (between battery and all other electrical components) but once discharged the electrical system will shut down.
They are both located in the fuse panel just forward of the battery.

After reading your reply regarding pulling fuse B and then asking where to put the leads.... you're probably best to work carefully, if at all, with an ammeter in this circuit. An ammeter passes the current directly thru the leads and meter to measure it's value. Connection is very different than that used to measure voltage. You will be passing upward of 120 amperes thru this meter and misconnection will cook the meter and may kill you (it only takes 40 thousands of an amp passing thru your body to do that). Unless your meter is specifically made for this task it is likely capable of handling no more than 10 amps. I've not seen a handymans or even professional general use ammeter that works above that. I can't stress this enough. Know your test equipment and the circuit before you attempt this. Seriously !
But do start by checking that B fuse as a first item. If it is blown, then the question will be...why? and you can proceed from there. Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Wow, that's a different ballgame! The pocedure on the Goldwing Forum said it should read up to 2 amps. I worked on electronics for years & have a professional meter, but it only goes to 10 amps.
 

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yeah, your standard Fluke ain't gonna cut it
Granted, I haven't read their procedure, but I can only assume they intend to fire it up and measure current that would normally pass thru that 120A fuse. I suspect that if done professionally they would use an inductive clamp and multiplier.
 

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You will need to get hold of a multimeter. If the fuse us okay, start the engine and put your meters red probe to the output terminal on the back of the alternator, black probe to ground. If you are not getting 13-14 volts at idle, you have a problem with your alternator. And yes, they do give trouble so you are not alone.
 

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Thanks to everyone. The alternaor had a bad stator, got one from OBB for $150. Works great!
Thanks so much for coming back to share the results of your repair! Not everyone does and it means a lot to the rest of us!!! Well done!
 
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