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1800 Oil Change

1040 Views 7 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  Dannyboy1949
Ok, a buddy of mine asks if I'll help him change the oil in his '03 1800. No prob come on over. The last oil change was done by the dealer. Even after buying a socket to remove the oil filter we wound up driving a punch through the old one to get it out. Just before we installed the oil and drain plug we checked the torque specs. According to the download we got the drain plug was 25 ft lb and the FILTER WAS 20 FT LB! We were both shocked.

Do any of you 1800'ers ever tighten your filters to anything near 20 ft lb?

THANKS!!!
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No, put oil or a light coat of grease on the seal then tighten it by hand.
grease or fresh oil coat as Dave said, turn till o-ring snugs then 1/4-1/3 turn more by hand(all oil filters).
I do the same as the others in regard to the oil filter.
In the owners manual it states 19 lbf-ft ( 26 N-m) for the Filter, and 25 lbf-ft ( 34 N-m ) for the Drain Bolt. Providing that there is a new crush washer used at every other oil change.
I have not had to use a oil filter wrench to remove a filter in any of my vehicles in over 20 years. (finally got some learnin'!) With proper installation, all of my filters will come loose by hand, especially when removed warm, right after a ride. With Purolator Gold filters as well as other high end filters, there's even a "sand" type coating on the filters to give you a better grip as well.

No need for wrenches any more!
I'm more inclined to use a wrench on the filter and torque it to specs…. for a very specific reason.

The idea of 'hand tight' is variable. The guy that's 50+ years old with carpel tunnel syndrome has a 'hand tight' a lot lighter than the 25 year old that's got a hand shake grip that'll crush bones. Or the guy or lady that is doing there first oil change and don't know the difference. Or the person using a Fram with the 'grip tite' coating…. or the person with slightly oily hands that can't grip as good. All these things make it hard to have a consistent torque.

You can imagine the results of an oil filter falling off during a ride.

Please do make sure to pre-oil the new filters o-ring…. and please do make sure that the old filters o-ring isn't stuck on the engine… and please do use a new crush washer on the drain plug.
I'm with rayworx. I've seen too many 'hand tight' oil filters weep oil all over the bottem of the engine. The OE oil filter wrench will easily remove an OE filter torqued properly.
Just a tip: If you don't have a new copper crush washer you can use a propane torch and heat the old one cherry red, then shock cool it in water...that realigns the molecules and it's good for another "crushing". I've done it for years with aircraft spark plug washers...no downside to doing it.

I've always seen the directions on filters to be "snug then turn 1/4, 1/3..." Never had an issue with one that way...but it seems like if Honda wants them turned to 20 ft lbs...they must have a reason (?) Or, it could even be an error that was never corrected (?) Seems a little overkill either way.
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