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so i talked to the honda dealer since its under warranty. he actually is pretty decent. i explained the problem about the 40mph wobble and he is up front with me and says that honda wont let them do the fix on because there isn't one. he agreed the fix would be the all ball bearings on the steering head, but they wont let them put them in. OEM only. so i told him i'm takingit to cyclemax. that just fries my ass.
 

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yeh i went through all that 85 gl1200 aspenncade went through the front and rear end, springs, all balls wheel and steering bearings torqued everything new matching set of tires air pressure set in suspension tires aired up good, brakes are good EVERYTHING and still i get a wobble in my steering from time to time when the conditions are right and at the right speed i just keep my hands on the wheel.
 

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If you have several thousand miles on the front tire it's very likely a new front tire will eliminate the wobble.
 

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If you will put 15 or 20wt fork oil in it the wobble will be gone. Mine has not wobbled once in the last 75,000 miles through several tires and that is the only thing that explains it.
 

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we put a new dunlop on it just to see if it was the tire and it did exactly the same thing, i have thought about the fork oil though. i am also wondering if its just the way the handle bars are attached to the forks . the harleys don't have it. just a thought i had. but it definately is annoying
 

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This has been discussed before.. more than once.. :popcorn:



http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/forum1/120134.html



I am of the "All Balls fixes the problem" school of thought. Some think it just masks the symptoms, but if the problem goes away, who cares if it is masked or truly solved? It's gone., not bothering you any more.

I put tapered bearings in mine, no wiggle any more for 50K miles. I've put all balls in probably 20 or 30 Traxxion full montys we've done, all stopped wobbling. (I've long since lost count of how many we've done.)

The original ball bearings are sized appropriately for an off-road type bicycle, or maybe a 125cc dirt bike. Seriously. A 900 lb behemoth needs better bearings.

There are a ton of other improvements you can make to your suspension, and to oher systems on the bike. I would agree that a $25K bike should not wobble. In fact, no bike should wobble. But the Wing as delivered is a canvas to which you apply money liberaly to make it your own and to suit your purposes.



JMHO



=Dave=
 

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I agree with Dave, All Balls is the answer most times. By all means fit a new tire, fork oil, Dyna Beads etc. But you will very likely come back to the steering bearings if all that fails to cure the wobble.
 

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Dandy Dave wrote:
i am thinking that is the answer, i am also puting in progressive springs and 15 w fork oil. i only want to do this once. i would like to do one at a time to see what makes the most difference but since its apart. i'm going for it. i just think honda knows the problem, fix the freakin thing. i am so tired of junk being turned out and the lack of pride in the industry world anymore. so thats my opinion. :lash::waving:. i do have a question, does anyone know what weight fork oil the factory puts in. i was at state 8 honda in akron ohio and they had no clue, they thought it was 8 weight, ???????
This has been discussed before.. more than once.. :popcorn:



http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/forum1/120134.html



I am of the "All Balls fixes the problem" school of thought. Some think it just masks the symptoms, but if the problem goes away, who cares if it is masked or truly solved? It's gone., not bothering you any more.

I put tapered bearings in mine, no wiggle any more for 50K miles. I've put all balls in probably 20 or 30 Traxxion full montys we've done, all stopped wobbling. (I've long since lost count of how many we've done.)

The original ball bearings are sized appropriately for an off-road type bicycle, or maybe a 125cc dirt bike. Seriously. A 900 lb behemoth needs better bearings.

There are a ton of other improvements you can make to your suspension, and to oher systems on the bike. I would agree that a $25K bike should not wobble. In fact, no bike should wobble. But the Wing as delivered is a canvas to which you apply money liberaly to make it your own and to suit your purposes.



JMHO



=Dave=
 

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Yes, I'm pretty sure it's 8 wt oil. The problem is that there is no standard for fork oil, so Honda's 8 wt might be Belrays 6 wt, might be Mxima's 15 wt.

If you want to help your front end a bit, put a heavier weight oil in the left (damper rod) fork than the right.. maybe 7 or 8 in the right, 15 in the left.
Also, just as a suggestion.. Use a straight spring, not a progressive.. I had progressves, and they're OK, and your stock springs are progressives. The issue is that when you take the bike off the stand, you have used up most of the soft part,,and all that's left is the hard part.
And while you're at it, consider installing a set of RaceTech GoldValves. Between better springs and the valves, you get real big improvement in your front end.

Springs are about $125, either RaceTech or Traxxion, the GoldValves are about $250 (ish?) RaceTech fork oil is pricey, but supposed to last forever. More or less. If you are using BelRay or Maxima with the Goldvalves, 15 left and 5 right is the way to go.

Frankly, Traxxion is the better way to go, but it is quite a bit more costly, and the GV / spring route gives you a major upgrade. Maybe 70% of Traxxion for 40% of the price.

What year, level, and how many miles on your bike?

=Dave=
 

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I just put All Balls in my 1200 plus new fork seals and bushing. I got a wobble one time at about 35mph when I took my hands off of the bars. Of course, it stopped as soon as I put my hands back.

I was cogitating about this today. I remember when we could be driving a car down the road and just by giving the wheel a sharp turn it would start a shimmy. If we didn't stop it by grabbing the wheel it would grow to a very strong shimmy.

I don't know what the relationship may be between car steering geometry and motorcycle steering geometry but it seems that any vehicle, given the right situation, will shimmy or wobble. Most cars these days have rack and pinion steering and powerful power steering that may mask the shimmy issue very well.

Just some not very useful thoughts,

Lyle
 

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its a 2010 with 30,000 on it. two new avons on it. we tried a new dunlop with the same results.
 

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beachbuddy0253 wrote:
its a 2010 with 30,000 on it. two new avons on it. we tried a new dunlop with the same results.
Wow, a 2010 with 30K on it.. You're a Rider! :thumbsup::thumbsup:



Some Goldwings just wobble. No idea why. Maybe it's my theory of acceptable tolerances. Every part has a tolerance range thatis OK for it to be used in manufacture. Usually, some parts go one way, some go the other, and everything averages out. But once in a while you get all the parts on one side of the range. Each part is OK, but the whole assembly is out a little. maybe just enough to wobble. As good a theory as any, I guess.



You've eliminated tires, there are a couple of other things to check.

1> re-torque the head bearings, maybe just a bit tight. Sometimes Honda is kind of stingy with the grease, too

2> check the torque on the swing arm.

3> I assume that your tires are properly and well balanced, and properly inflated.. (41 front. 41 or 42 rear, usually per the tire manufacturer)

4> wobble can come form the rear tire, have you changed that?

5> rather than changing tires, have you tried swapping wheels with a known non-wobbler?

6> have you checked to be sure your wheels aren't out of round, or twisted a little?

7>while they are checking torques, loosen up the forks and front wheel, and make sure everything is properly aligned and moving as it should. Then re-torque.



If none of that it out of spec or solves the issue, back to all-balls. The good news is that the bearings are only about $45. The bad news is that they are buried, and it takes a bit of work to get there and change them, as well as a couple of specialty tools. One required, and two that make life a Maybe you can get your dealer to do the work if you provide the part? Unlikely, but stranger things have happened. And he seemd to feel guilty that you have a problem. maybe enough to fix it..



Keep us in the loop



=Dave=
 

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DaveO430 wrote:
If you will put 15 or 20wt fork oil in it the wobble will be gone. Mine has not wobbled once in the last 75,000 miles through several tires and that is the only thing that explains it.
Ya know, I have no idea why nobody pays any attention to what I write, may be because I don't fill a page with BS just try to keep answers simple. That is what the steering bearing thing is, BS. The all balls may mask the problem like a steering damper would but I am more inclined to want a fix, not a bandaid. I did change to the tapered roller bearings when I noticed a notchy place in my steering but the wobble was gone long before that.
 

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DaveO430 wrote:
DaveO430 wrote:
If you will put 15 or 20wt fork oil in it the wobble will be gone. Mine has not wobbled once in the last 75,000 miles through several tires and that is the only thing that explains it.
Ya know, I have no idea why nobody pays any attention to what I write, may be because I don't fill a page with BS just try to keep answers simple. That is what the steering bearing thing is, BS. The all balls may mask the problem like a steering damper would but I am more inclined to want a fix, not a bandaid. I did change to the tapered roller bearings when I noticed a notchy place in my steering but the wobble was gone long before that.

Some of us are listening Dave.



My book calls for Pro Honda Suspension Fluid SS-8. I can only find that fluid in 10 weight, so I'm guessing that is the only weight they make with the SS-8 designation.
 

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hey dave i'm listening too. i have tried eveything you mentioned well almost, i did put 15 wt oil in forks and very little diference. i will now replace the head bearings and springs. the springs just because it will be torn down and at that point why not. its good to know that i have thought about most things everyone else is. i am also puting a new pirreli tire on it at the same time. i will keep everone post on the results. i'm excited now. that darn wobble is just annoying. oh yah, the 30,000 mile are not all mine, i wish they were, i can only account for 10,000 of it since march. ( so far :action::waving:. i take it you are a mc mechanic ???
 

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Hey, 10K in 6 months is very respectable.I only usually manage 10K a year. Some of it depends on vacations, and ifI can get one. And some on weather. Temperature's no big deal, but when the water on the roads gets hard and slippery, and they start throwing salt around, I'm done.



My business card lists me as a "Major Enthusiast" I guess that's a pretty good description.

I have a day job, because I must, but my "other "job is to be part of Rocket Moto. We are authorized traxxion installers, and we do a bunch of other lights and wiring related stuff. When we do a traxxion install on a Wing, I normally take the front end off, hand the forks to Adam, who rebuilds and installs Traxxion, (or Race Tech). While he is doing that, I continue to the stem bearings, replace them, and put the tree and handlebars on. If the forks aren't ready, I move on todigging outthe shock. So, while I'm not an overall mechanic / tech, I can strip a Goldwing in jig time.



If you do the bearings, I torque them to 23 ft lbs. You can also use the fish scale method if you like, but 23 has always worked for me, and felt right. If you run into anything you need a little help on, please ask. PM me if you like, to keep mundane stuff from clogging the board.



=Dave=
 

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DaveO430 wrote:
DaveO430 wrote:
If you will put 15 or 20wt fork oil in it the wobble will be gone. Mine has not wobbled once in the last 75,000 miles through several tires and that is the only thing that explains it.
Ya know, I have no idea why nobody pays any attention to what I write, may be because I don't fill a page with BS just try to keep answers simple. That is what the steering bearing thing is, BS. The all balls may mask the problem like a steering damper would but I am more inclined to want a fix, not a bandaid. I did change to the tapered roller bearings when I noticed a notchy place in my steering but the wobble was gone long before that.


Dave, did you have a bad day yesterday? You sound kind of grumpy.. ;)



I don't quite understand how increasing the damping would help or stop the wobble. I'm all ears and open to the suggestion, I just don't see where more vertical control would have any impact on a horizontal problem.

I sort of interpret the "fill a page with BS" comment as being pointed at me, since I tend to give long, thorough explanations if I can.. I'm trying to give a fairly new Goldwing owner some help with aproblem that hasafflicted our community for a long time. He has been working hard to fix this, andcame to this board for help. Rather than just give him a "Do this" answer, I have tried to give him a "Do this because it has this effect, and here are some other things that might be contributing" answer. I could have pointed him at the search function, where "wobble" returns 982 items to read, but I thought I'd offer him some specific ideas first.

I agree that the All Balls solution is probably masking something rather than offereing a definitve fix, but whether it's cured or masked, the problem is gone, and doesn't come back. There have been hundreds, and probably thousands tapered bearing conversions done on GL1800s, and I have never heard of one that didn't make the wobble stopunless the tires were badly worn in the wobble pattern, and new tires made it stop completely. In fact, you saw enought merit in the roller bearings that you chose to use them when it was time to replace yourbearings.

:smile:



=Dave=
 

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I have 56k on my '06. Some sets of tires wobbled. Others didn't. The current Elite III's don't do it even though the front is showing pretty good cupping at 10k miles. The last set was not good. I have no idea what a permanent fix might be. I am one of the folks who believes that the bearings are not the issue. The handle bar mounting is soft and I think helps build the wobble into a tank slapper (and it absolutely can build into a tank slapper). With one hand on the bars it never wobbles.
I love that friggin' bike - wobble or no wobble.
 

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Hi Greg.. OK, I'll keep the popcorn hot here..

I don't understand "the handle bar mounting is soft" Are your bars loose or wiggly? The bars are attached to the fork bridge, bolted firmly on with big bolts, torqued to (?) I think it's 22 ft lbs. (I always check to be sure I have the right number). The bridge is bolted to the tree and clamps the tubes in place. Everything else is firmly bolted in place, and there should be no play, looseness, softness, or anything like that. Bikes (some, anyway) used to have the bars mounted in rubber bushings to help reduce vibration, but Goldwings don't vibrate,

All I can tell you about the bearings is that bikes with roller bearings don't wobble. Take that for what it's worth. The bearings may not be the cause, I don't know. But they are the cure, and that has been demonstrated time and again. If you are tired of the wobble, and can do yourown work, this ischance to eliminateit for $45 orso plus an afternoon and a couple of beers. If you need to have it done, you're still probably under $400, depending on labor rates.



Just my opinion...



=Dave=
 
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