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So,i bought this 1977 Gl1000 at an auction.Was told it ran good.So i took a chance and paid $500 smackers for it.Was told runds good but carbs leak.

So I take the carbs out and the y look clean.O-rings all look good.I re-install them get fuel it up

After 15 to 20 short bursts on the starter she fires up.Yippee!So im standing there just enjoying the fact that its running and I notice a pool building under the bike.

I say to myself "On No it's leak is not fixed yet.Its leaking right where the two halves join.I imagine without looking at a schematic that there is a tube and or o-ring that seals the gas feed from the right half to the left helf.

Here is my question to anyone who had experience with these carbs.

What the heck did you use to get those soft headed screws out?The ones that hold the two halves together?

I have an Impact driver but its too girthy to get at the screws.at a rasonable angle.They are on real good.A regular Philips head screwdriver is out of the question as they need high pressure applied so as not to shear the soft pot metal heads off.

I know there are some crude ways to remove these.I was hoping one ofyou brilliant members knew of a tool that worked for you.

Thanks, Flatfour
 

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yes they sre soft . i was able to get some very small vice grips on them. the ones on the inside that hold the carbs on the plenum are soft too. randakk has the center seal gasket available on his site and i think new screws come with the kit. jb.
 

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there are gaskets where the carbs connect to the plenum, they can be a problem expecially if someone took the carbs off the plenum....

have you checked out Randakk's site for tips on wrking on "olde-wings"

and, btw, change the timing belts
 

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Actually I have a Randakks rebuild kit.Didnt get the video but now realize it would be in my best interest.I dont have a problem to rebuild the carbs.True, its a small chore to remove and twice as hard to reinstall the carbs.I was experiencing the throttle not returning.Greased the cables real well and made sure that connections at carb were not too tight and binding.

If i could just get the two two halves apart without destroying the heads of pot metal screws.
Ideally i need 8 inch long phillips that fits into my impact driver.

Change the belts?Sure I will of course.Just wanted to make sure it runs before i go dump time and money into it.It seems to run good even only two minutes under choke.

Flatfour
 

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if you break a belt, you will screw the engine.... so it is worth the investment

try putting a socket extender on your impact driver for those difficult to reach places.... have you pulled the carbs out.... isn't too hard to do
 

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If your impact driver has removable head pull it off a install 1/4 or 3/8 extension put

head on end and go for it.
 

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Home Depot or Lowes sell a close substitute for the screws, just a tad short in some cases. It worked for me. I paid Mother Honda a heck of a lot (too much) for the gasket. I firmly believe one could fake the fuel seals with some o'rings and sealant instead of buying the gasket. I used blue loctite. Took em out with a lot of swearing and small vise-grips.
 

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Yeah! I had the carbs pulled.in July.They looked so clean I was astonished.Used part of Randakks kit.Put them back together installed them and now i realize what the auctioneer meant by leaking carbs.
I originally in my mind thought the float bowl was stuck.Im kicking myself for re-instlling the carbs.I got them back out again.Took about 35 mins.
Here we go again!
Im not overly concerned with the belts yet.The bike ran in January.I think i will get a few more spins out tof the motor.It needs fork seals too so I wont ride it until all is in good order.
I just realized this bike was loved at one time and used regularly.Has Lester mags, drilled rotors nice fairing with working radio and the weirdest looking one piece saddlebag trunk.Huge storage space.Im really looking forward to getting this one on the road.
Thanks for all your suggestions.
Flatfour
 

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It's your bike, but if you don't know the miles or age of the belts, your risking the next time you fire her up being the last. You have determined it will run and the belts are inexpensive from rockauto.com


GATES Part # T274
{3/4" x 32 5/8" (87 Teeth)}
Category: Timing Belt
$16.01
Discount code 1027410582647 will get you another 5% off (good thru Nov 9,2008)
 

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someone on here suggested I run the throttle cables outside the frame. makes getting the carbs on and off easier.
 

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curious if that part # is good for the 78 gl1000?
 

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flatfour wrote:
Ideally i need 8 inch long phillips that fits into my impact driver.
If your driver is like mine, the end that holds the bits pulls off, leaving you with a 3/8 squalre drive. Using an extension, you can use a socket to hold the bit and PRESTO! you have a, 8" long impact driver.
 

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rcmatt007 wrote:
morriscatt wrote:
curious if that part # is good for the 78 gl1000?
yes.... same belts for all the 1000's and 1100's
Thanks Rodger... Bikes coming along nice.. just finished carb rebuild down to plenum gasket.. no leaks floats set nice.. getting ready to sync, time, ck valves.. then hopefully ride a lot..
 
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