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Discussion Starter #1
Once again I must ask for the help of you goldwing gurus,

I made a post a while ago at the beginning of summer about my gl1000 which ran poorly. After replacing the points and readjusting the timing which was way off among other electrical crimes the bike ran pretty good to me a little cold blooded but once warm ran good. After about 1500miles of commuting to and from school whenever the weather allowed brings me to around a week ago. The bike sometimes sits outside due to a lack of space available but last week (or the week before) central ohio had a pretty bad storm I wasn't expecting so the bike sat outside in the rain and lighting, which stopped by around 12am-1am.

The next morning around 8am I went to start it to go to school and it would not run right at all i would turn it on and it would only hit on 2 cylinders run for 10-15 sec then die. After fighting it for 5min I left it alone and took the car. After school I came home to see if maybe it was just because it was still wet, no go it ran this time only when the throttle was held open still on only two cylinders so while it was running i pulled the left hand back cylinder spark plug cap and it dies. But when i go to pull the front left it makes no difference. I do the same for the right and the front cylinders didn't seem to fire. Unfortunately I didn't have the time to fix so it sat for a couple days.

after which i tore the shelter off to check the wiring at the coils and found that the plug for the right coil was a little loose and had some rust on it probably from sitting outside so I cleaned that up and kinda clamped it a little tighter with pliers but didn't replace the connector. While I was messing with it I had a brand new condenser that came in so I went it and replaced the old one and cleaned the points up which looked a little worse for wear for only 1500 of running. After doing this work I started the bike up and it came alive like it used to but i only ran it for a couple moments. so I put it back together and went for a ride.

It ran fine at idle but would seem to occasionally lose 1 or 2 cylinders and have no power at all. But then sometimes would run fine. But would "wake up" if given full throttle. The choke weirdly enough seems to affect how it runs when its freaking out which seems like carbs but I want to focus on ignition right now at least. While riding i pulled over and jiggled the junction where the condenser points and coil interconnect and had no change in idle. I also sprayed wd40 around the intakes and had no idle change. I did change the intake o rings around 1000 miles ago.

I tested my coils today and here are the numbers:

1 and 2
with caps: 24,800 ohms
w/o caps: 15,320 ohms

3 and 4
with caps: 26,300
w/o caps: 16,950

Spark Plug Caps (These caps were replaced with the points 1500 miles ago) With ngk caps recommended on randakks site
1: 5,010
2: 5,020
3: 4,830
4: 4,720


I looked at this post on randakks site Coil Testing + Coil Replacement Options | Randakk's Blog

But I don't know how to interpret these numbers I got from testing. I cant tell if its off enough to be a problem or really what is going on.

Thanks again.
 

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1987 GL1200 Interstate
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Don't know about the numbers and really not very good with ignitions, but, when I hear "it won't run after sitting in the rain", I first think there may be a clogged drain in a spark plug cavity. I doesn't take much moisture to create problems.
 

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An ohm test on coils is almost useless. Unless you find one with infinite ohms or a very low reading, (shorted) they are probably good unless they are cracked which will cause problems when wet & can only be determined by visual inspection, traces of arcing or watching them in the dark.
 

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Just re read this and if you fitted new points they are due a recheck and adjust as the fiber "heel" will have worn slightly to fit the cam
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I will readjust the points tomorrow and come back with any results. I will need to get this bike up and running again cause my 1988 bmw 528e is due for a timing belt soon. I'll need this bike while i work on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
An ohm test on coils is almost useless. Unless you find one with infinite ohms or a very low reading, (shorted) they are probably good unless they are cracked which will cause problems when wet & can only be determined by visual inspection, traces of arcing or watching them in the dark.
Had no clue that this was the case the coils seem to create spark at both sets of points. And it doesn't change when the bike gets warm so i'll assume the coils are alright for now.
 

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Had no clue that this was the case the coils seem to create spark at both sets of points. And it doesn't change when the bike gets warm so i'll assume the coils are alright for now.
To add to Dave's comments, I will say this.
Remember in the "old days" when distributor caps would carbon track and misfire?

The same thing can happen internal to the coil. If that were the case you could not find it with an ohm meter.

As for the erratic behavior you describe. It is easy to blame carbs for ignition issues and vice versa.

The reason it can confusing is because lean mixtures require a strong ignition to fire the plug.

So when you enrichen the mixture with the choke, it is possible a weak spark will fire because the mixture is richer.

Seems like a carb issue when actually, it is an ignition issue
 

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Had no clue that this was the case the coils seem to create spark at both sets of points. And it doesn't change when the bike gets warm so i'll assume the coils are alright for now.
I will also add that sitting out in the rain probably had no effect on the carbs.
 

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I will also add that sitting out in the rain probably had no effect on the carbs.
To this comment, I will add that our Bad Boy Zero Turn mower sits out in the rain, and the carb gets wet every time it rains, and It also gets wet when I use the High Pressure Washer to clean off the grass from the engine base, and under the mower deck....

Does not hamper that motor one bit, it fires up instantly.
One click and you hear it running, now, no grinding, it just starts and runs.

It is a Vee Twin Kohler, not unlike our bikes having Wasted Spark. The coil wires go to different spark plugs.
 

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To this comment, I will add that our Bad Boy Zero Turn mower sits out in the rain, and the carb gets wet every time it rains, and It also gets wet when I use the High Pressure Washer to clean off the grass from the engine base, and under the mower deck....

Does not hamper that motor one bit, it fires up instantly.
One click and you hear it running, now, no grinding, it just starts and runs.

It is a Vee Twin Kohler, not unlike our bikes having Wasted Spark. The coil wires go to different spark plugs.
But it's not in it's 40s. The electrical system hasn't deteriorated yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Okay, earlier today I readjusted the points which were a little off and replaced some really old fuel lines as well as the fuel filter I had on its a new unit but I wasn't happy with how much filter element on it. It looked clean on the bike put when i took it off it had already collected a bunch of small specs no idea what they are so I replaced it with a higher quality fuel filter. Checked the plugs while i was at it and they seemed a little on the lean side so I opened the mixture screw about an 1/8 turn. After warming up it runs fine now. I guess I just have to stay on top of my points making sure they are well adjusted.

Thanks for all your help
Now for another issue I have created

Where can I get the connector that runs from the rectifier to the regulator. mine was covered in electrical tape and I removed it while changing the condenser to get more room and now my charging voltage has dropped from 14-15 to 12-13. I can assume its because of my connector its cracked and falling apart. I'd like to just get another OEM style connector I can just repin.
Thanks
 

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forget the connector.
Extend the wires if necessary and splice/solder/temp shrink over them.

the connector terminals do not have a high enough Amperage capability to keep from burning up.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
forget the connector.
Extend the wires if necessary and splice/solder/temp shrink over them.

the connector terminals do not have a high enough Amperage capability to keep from burning up.
Oh ok I'll get on that tomorrow after class and acquiring more solder. Man I'm getting pretty decent at soldering because of this bike.
 

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Okay, earlier today I readjusted the points which were a little off and replaced some really old fuel lines as well as the fuel filter I had on its a new unit but I wasn't happy with how much filter element on it. It looked clean on the bike put when i took it off it had already collected a bunch of small specs no idea what they are so I replaced it with a higher quality fuel filter. Checked the plugs while i was at it and they seemed a little on the lean side so I opened the mixture screw about an 1/8 turn. After warming up it runs fine now. I guess I just have to stay on top of my points making sure they are well adjusted.

Thanks for all your help
Now for another issue I have created

Where can I get the connector that runs from the rectifier to the regulator. mine was covered in electrical tape and I removed it while changing the condenser to get more room and now my charging voltage has dropped from 14-15 to 12-13. I can assume its because of my connector its cracked and falling apart. I'd like to just get another OEM style connector I can just repin.
Thanks
I suspect the bits you find in the filter are deteriorated hose. It is breaking up internally. I would change evry fuel line on the bike from the tank to the carbs. Good chance that was your issue and not the points. It plugged after the TEE and not enough gas was getting to the carbs??????
 

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yea by "adjusting the points" i meant cleaning them, gapping them, and then retiming them with the test light.
Did you put a dab of grease on the point cam? Without it the rubbing block will wear and the points need adjusted frequently. Still probably not your problem if it still acts up when wet.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I didn't put any grease on the cam not gonna lie. I'll put some on tomorrow when. But it seems like this didn't actually fix the problem

yesterday I took the bike out and it started good and ran good. smoother than before nice idle at 1000rpm with good throttle response so I though I was goochie.

this morning the bike started instantly with full choke it was around 45 degrees. I let it warm up for 30sec then ride off with 1/2 choke ( I live near neighbors and don't want to bother them at 7:30am otherwise i'd let it warm up longer.) I ride about a mile down the road perfectly fine about on get on the highway and it drops a couple cylinders and loses all power. I pull over in a parking lot and when I pull in the clutch they all come back on and the bike revs fine. okayyy... then I get back on the road for maybe 300ft and it drops cylinders again just going at a constant speed. not accelerating just a constant speed and it loses all power and sounds like its hitting on 1 or 2 cylinders. I pull off again the bike revs fine in neutral with maybe a little stutter just off idle. I ride home and it runs fine but I park it in the driveway anyways and take the car. Cause I was sketched out and didn't want to have to tow this thing home and I was late for class. The temp gauge was just before the start of the solid bar so I assume it had warmed up sufficiently to run properly.

Maybe a lose connection somewhere? I'm gonna take off the shelter, air filter, etc. again check and clean all the connections again tomorrow. While I'm soldering the connector for the rectifier and regulator.
I wish I could show y'all but its hard to recreate it happens seemingly at random.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I suspect the bits you find in the filter are deteriorated hose. It is breaking up internally. I would change evry fuel line on the bike from the tank to the carbs. Good chance that was your issue and not the points. It plugged after the TEE and not enough gas was getting to the carbs??????
I did change the fuel line while I was there with the clear kind like they use on dirtbikes sometimes. just as a for now measure cause they were old. but I plan to get a nicer rubber hose

What is the "TEE" your talking about is it after the fuel pump?
 
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