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I did change the fuel line while I was there with the clear kind like they use on dirtbikes sometimes. just as a for now measure cause they were old. but I plan to get a nicer rubber hose

What is the "TEE" your talking about is it after the fuel pump?
Related to the tee I was thinking of a different thread. Sorry. :rolleyes:
 

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It's still an ignition problem. Like I said, probably a cracked coil.
 

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After initial settling points should be done every 3000 along with oil and filter from memory.
Same points as 450 and 500 twin by the way
 

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Get your bike a rain coat. (cover) ;) A hair drier can also help to dry out old cantankerous electrics, like coils and plug wires after they get soaked. If it runs enough to ride, take it out and get it up to temp for an hour or so. If you want it to be rain proof, you will most likely end up replacing everything high voltage, coils, plug wires, etc. as a start. Then start going over all the low voltage stuff, cleaning connections and applying dielectric grease, like when the bike was new.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
I was planning to get a cover for it but I never got around to it. I am thinking of just buying coils off a gl1500 and bypassing the ballast resistor because from what I understand it has it built in. I see them online used for around $40-60.
I saw this video:

where he mentions changing the coils over. but the guy in this video has dyna ignition. Will this work still with the points or am I better off just getting aftermarket stock coils? I had to buy LCAs for my car so I don't have the money right now for it but I paid next week so I'll have to wait to order them then.
 

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Yes, the 1500 coils will work with points.
 

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Dave uses Dodge neon car coils
 

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I was planning to get a cover for it but I never got around to it. I am thinking of just buying coils off a gl1500 and bypassing the ballast resistor because from what I understand it has it built in. I see them online used for around $40-60.
I saw this video:

where he mentions changing the coils over. but the guy in this video has dyna ignition. Will this work still with the points or am I better off just getting aftermarket stock coils? I had to buy LCAs for my car so I don't have the money right now for it but I paid next week so I'll have to wait to order them then.
I am not sure if the GL1500 coils have an internal resistor or not. It is not always necessary with electronic ignition but it is important for your point triggered ignition. If voltage is too high the voltage will cause arcing across the points while opening. If it were me I would leave the ballast resistor in place and run the bike. If it performs well and has no issues you are good. If there are running issues you can eliminate it.
In years past I have had cars that just seemed to use up points like crazy. I found that it was not terribly unusual to add a ballast resistor to the existing resistor or resistor wire. With an external resistor you could check the voltage at the coil to see that it had 9 to 10 volts running. I'm not sure how you could check that voltage IF the coils have an internal resistor.

Here is an article from Radakk that has a lot of info.

 

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Dave uses Dodge neon car coils
True & I did put one on a 1000 & it worked great but there is more to do and I'm just not up for trying to explain it all.
 

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I am not sure if the GL1500 coils have an internal resistor or not. It is not always necessary with electronic ignition but it is important for your point triggered ignition. If voltage is too high the voltage will cause arcing across the points while opening. If it were me I would leave the ballast resistor in place and run the bike. If it performs well and has no issues you are good. If there are running issues you can eliminate it.
I agree completely.
 

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After initial settling points should be done every 3000 along with oil and filter
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I am not sure if the GL1500 coils have an internal resistor or not. It is not always necessary with electronic ignition but it is important for your point triggered ignition. If voltage is too high the voltage will cause arcing across the points while opening. If it were me I would leave the ballast resistor in place and run the bike. If it performs well and has no issues you are good. If there are running issues you can eliminate it.
In years past I have had cars that just seemed to use up points like crazy. I found that it was not terribly unusual to add a ballast resistor to the existing resistor or resistor wire. With an external resistor you could check the voltage at the coil to see that it had 9 to 10 volts running. I'm not sure how you could check that voltage IF the coils have an internal resistor.

Here is an article from Radakk that has a lot of info.

Thanks a lot for the info it was a good informative read. And after reading it what you said makes a lot of sense. I will run the ballast resistor unless it gives issues.

Dave uses Dodge neon car coils
that sounds like a good option. I just don't want to have to fabricate too much. using the gl1000 seems like a pretty straightforward swap.


Thanks for all your help guys once i get the coils in I will come back and update this thread with my results.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
UPDATE: 10/4/20

I got the coils actually a couple of days ago now but with midterms I didn't have the time to install them.
Yesterday I finally got around to it, here are my stock coils:

323900

I couldn't tell if they had any cracks in them or not but they seemed to be the original coils cause they were hard wired.
I don't have any photos of the gl1500 coils I bought cause i forgot but it came with the wiring and brackets that hold all 3 together. I basically just snipped the oil coils out and soldered on the connectors for the gl1500 coils onto the harness thing for the coils. Since the gl1500 coils had markings on them for each cylinder I matched it up to that so the wires correspond to the correct cylinders. I had to shave down the airbox intake thingy to make space but they fit.
At first I had the ballast resistor hooked up but they may be something wrong with it cause when I tried to start the bike it only ran with the starter button depressed. So I jumped the wires and it started fine and ran. I only ran it for around 30 sec cause I had other things to do. I don't know if ballast resistors can go bad or if I had something wrong but I'll keep an eye on my points to see if they wear out and maybe buy an aftermarket ballast resistor.

But today I finally took it out for a ride. I don't know why but it took a long time for the bike to warm up its around 65 degrees here. During this time it was coughing sputtering and running like trash. But once the temp guage hit the white part it ran way better and smoothed right out. I readjusted the mixture and idle screws and it seems to run good enough for me. Sometimes i get a little burble or pop on decel but i think that's because my straight piped exhaust. My mufflers rusted off and I haven't had the time to fix it but I have a friend with a welder now so I'll get around to it eventually.
I will try... keyword try to ride it to school tomorrow morning.

 

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The ballast resistor idea is to give a better spark when starting, the coils are 9v coild not 12 and when in run position the resistor drops the battery voltage to 9 but when you press the starter the starter current draw drops the battery voltage to 9-10 volts and at the same time the resistor is bypassed so full battery voltage is supplied to the coil
 

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UPDATE: 10/4/20

I got the coils actually a couple of days ago now but with midterms I didn't have the time to install them.
Yesterday I finally got around to it, here are my stock coils:

View attachment 323900
I couldn't tell if they had any cracks in them or not but they seemed to be the original coils cause they were hard wired.
I don't have any photos of the gl1500 coils I bought cause i forgot but it came with the wiring and brackets that hold all 3 together. I basically just snipped the oil coils out and soldered on the connectors for the gl1500 coils onto the harness thing for the coils. Since the gl1500 coils had markings on them for each cylinder I matched it up to that so the wires correspond to the correct cylinders. I had to shave down the airbox intake thingy to make space but they fit.
At first I had the ballast resistor hooked up but they may be something wrong with it cause when I tried to start the bike it only ran with the starter button depressed. So I jumped the wires and it started fine and ran. I only ran it for around 30 sec cause I had other things to do. I don't know if ballast resistors can go bad or if I had something wrong but I'll keep an eye on my points to see if they wear out and maybe buy an aftermarket ballast resistor.

But today I finally took it out for a ride. I don't know why but it took a long time for the bike to warm up its around 65 degrees here. During this time it was coughing sputtering and running like trash. But once the temp guage hit the white part it ran way better and smoothed right out. I readjusted the mixture and idle screws and it seems to run good enough for me. Sometimes i get a little burble or pop on decel but i think that's because my straight piped exhaust. My mufflers rusted off and I haven't had the time to fix it but I have a friend with a welder now so I'll get around to it eventually.
I will try... keyword try to ride it to school tomorrow morning.

After a man works on his bike for a long time the bike needs a good run to get the cob webs out.Take her for a 50 mile ride. :p
 

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I know its the auto correct but i just gotta do it

We aint got any moles round here will rabbits do?
 

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Do rabbits have cobwebs, and/or, are we talking hopping hares or Volkswagon Rabbits?

And I don't believe it's auto correct. "I" and "O" are right next to each other on the keyboard.
Just a matter of not proof reading before posting.
 

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Giving benefit of doubt there, we dont have volkswagen rabbits in UK i think its called the Golf here, as to cob webs you would have to ask Alice about that one.

We gotta laugh, it aint worth crying!!
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Update: Thanks for your replies.

I've been riding the bike for a couple days and it has this weird off idle stumble where it chugs and clanks until 2500rpm when cold.


But when warmed up it is way less noticeable but is still there.
I changed the fuel filter 3 days ago and my fuel was yellower than it should be. So I filled it up (the tank had maybe a gallon of fuel) with fresh gas thinking maybe the last time I put gas I had some bad gasoline cause i remember seeing the truck refueling the station. And the bike sat for a couple weeks before I could get around to fixing on it.

Yesterday I rewelded the stock exhaust back on. But it stumbled even before I reattached the mufflers. I rode it to school this morning and it still does it but today after I get home from school I plan to reset the idle mixture screws to stock, run it and change if needed. As well as check the points again for excessive wear.

To better describe the situation im having, when the bike has warmed up when the throttle is barely open the bike chugs but when you open it up more it clears up either pulling away from a stop or moving at a constant speed with the throttle slightly open. But it revs fine in neutral its only under load. It feels fine in the midrange and top end just down low.
 
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