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Hi All,
May I get your opinions/advise once again?
1978 gl1000 runs great, then after 10 miles or so,, runs real bad. That's what happened yesterday, then again this morning it ran great when I left here, and within about 10 miles, (after already warming up to center of gage), It sounded like it lost first one cylinder, then 2 cylinders before I got home. I does however have spark at each spark plug. I believe if I let it sit here until completely cool, it will start and run like the wind for another 10 miles or less!
Already changed fuel filter, and plugs to no avail.
 

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Is the gas tank breathing ok - do you hear a rush of air in when you take the filler cap off after ten miles? just a thought Cheers Bill
 

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curzons246 wrote:
Is the gas tank breathing ok - do you hear a rush of air in when you take the filler cap off after ten miles? just a thought Cheers Bill
Gas tank is breathing ok. Had that problem early on so I cut slice into rubber gasket, no more whosh. New carb rebuild and sync and it ran great for a few hundred miles after tuning carbs. Electronic Ignition (Dyna III)
The last thing that brought her to a hault was the dogbone fuse burning out. I had shorted the Air Box against the Resistor/Coil on right side. Put new blade fuse in and took off running great. Ran about 20 miles and a stop at Walmart then at 75 started losing a little power. I thought it was about time for new fuel filter. Tried that to no avail. and here i sit..
at 3:30 pm After about 1 hour I started it and at first the rods were knocking as if some cylinders had no gas, like the gas was not on, then within 30 seconds it started running great again.. I took the hose from fuel pump off yesterday and with kill switch on shot gas about 10" when hit starter.
 

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could it be that when you had the shorting out problem , that you also took out the ballast resistor ? just my 2 cents.
 

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wda-83wing wrote:
could it be that when you had the shorting out problem , that you also took out the ballast resistor ? just my 2 cents.
don't know, Is one of the symptons, it runs great till warms up enough? If so, how do I ck it when running bad?
 

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you`ll have to pull the air cleaner assy out first . unplug the wires from the ballast resistor . useing a ohm meter check the resistance--it should be 3 ohm +/- 10% between the prongs of the ballast resistor . this is for a stock set of coils . not sure on the dayna set if you have them too. do you know witch you have ?
 

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I believe they are stock coils. As i understand, I must remove the ballast resistor before cking resistance with my ohm meter, right?
Also, can I get a new one at Autozone?
 

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no you can check it on the bike---just unplug it. dont know if auto zone would have it or not. maybe---just take your old one and try an match it up . size and spec wise.
 

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My two cents I have a 85 1200 and mine did almost the same thing I changedthe starter and the positive cable and has run fine since . Hope it helps
 

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get IT HOT THEN PULL the PLUG WIRES OFF ONE AT A TIME PUT A SPARE PLUG IN AND HOLD it on the block..check for spark when hot( you could pull all the plugs to make it easier on the starter but keep them all on the block/grounded while you are testing) ..something could be heating up and causing an electrical failure but only when hot..if you find a weak or no spark start with coils, and work your way back to the pulse generator. Could even be a bad wire or plug cap. Or a connection that opens up when it gets hot..
 

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RB wrote:
get IT HOT THEN PULL the PLUG WIRES OFF ONE AT A TIME PUT A SPARE PLUG IN AND HOLD it on the block..check for spark when hot( you could pull all the plugs to make it easier on the starter but keep them all on the block/grounded while you are testing) ..something could be heating up and causing an electrical failure but only when hot..if you find a weak or no spark start with coils, and work your way back to the pulse generator. Could even be a bad wire or plug cap. Or a connection that opens up when it gets hot..
Hey RB, I pulled each plug with my gloves on while I was at side of road running real poor. Each plug individually made engine almost die. Did I accomplish the same thing?
 

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Well, well well. You said you replaced the plugs. Did the old ones tell you anything by their color? Black insulators, of course say too rich. White says too lean. The knocking when restarting says (to me) it's overheated. Perhaps a stuck thermostat and/or a malfunctioning gage. If it starts to die again, you might take a can of Wal-mart carb spray with the extension nozzle and spray it in the plenum, and, if it picks up RPM, it's lack of fuel. Knocking usually means pre-ignition or detonating. Overly lean mixture or overheating. Hope you have plenty of oil and your valves aren't too tight. My best (to me) guess, good luck.
 

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When it was barely running about 30 miles from home and I pulled the plugs, they all 4 had a light coat of white on the top only. When I rechecked yesterday after riding until it began to run bad, I pulled all 4 again and they looked fine. No white or black.
 

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I was talking about ..getting it to the running poorly state..then pull all the plugs and see if you still have a good spark..as heat could be causing an electrical issue causing one or more plugs not to fire or fire poorly...but if they all looked nice and tan when you pulled them... after it was running poorly for a bit, the the plugs were probably firing OK and the problem is elsewhere???

Does the rpm make any difference..IE can you run it at a higher rpm and keep it running better? IE does down shifting improve things when the problem starts.
 

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RB wrote:
I was talking about ..getting it to the running poorly state..then pull all the plugs and see if you still have a good spark..as heat could be causing an electrical issue causing one or more plugs not to fire or fire poorly...but if they all looked nice and tan when you pulled them... after it was running poorly for a bit, the the plugs were probably firing OK and the problem is elsewhere???

Does the rpm make any difference..IE can you run it at a higher rpm and keep it running better? IE does down shifting improve things when the problem starts.
Higher RPM does not make any difference. As to heat, the gauge has been working properly. Yesterday I let it warm up until the fan came on (just a little higher than a center of gauge reading), then I took off like and arrow.. took 10 miles before it started going bad, then went bad fast.
 

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Not so much the heat of the engine but something electrical gets hot when the bike is running at normal speeds..and causes an electrical failure..coils, resistors, pulser..or jsut wiring expanding. If it was fuel related higher rpm's would effect it..and that's all there is fuel, electrical(spark), compression..(valves/timing/rings). So one of those has to be failing after 10 minutes of riding.

The question is what is being effected after 10 minutes and why???

You could the next time it happens..take off the fuel line on the "out" side of the fuel pump and see if fuel is still gets pumped through..you have vapor lock in your gas tank..or simpler while you are having the problem crack the tank cap and see if it solves your problem if you hear a whusss when you open the cap that might be it..vapor lock in the gas tank..so the vent in the cap is clogged.

That's my best guess...if it's not electrical..and a lot easier to remedy.
 

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when I got home today I checked the ballast resistor and by taking it apart from the connectors coming from the Coil, one of the wires broke (from the resistor) off in my hand. I went to Napa and got a 1.8ohm. (cause of having a Dyna Ignition) and it was a choice between a 1.4 and a 1.8 on hand. it ran great for a while.. then on my way back within 10 miles or so,,, it started to miss on what sounded like one cylinder... I shut it off and came in outta the cold. I already had the Gas tank cap problem, and have cut a small slice out of the cap gasket to fix temporarily . No more whusss when I open the tank. I have taken off gas line to and from pump to check, and it shot out gas from the pump about like it did 2 months ago. about 8 -12 inches. If it was gas,, would it not be ok after just a few minutes sitting.. as opposed to and hour or 2?
 

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I don't know much about the gl 1000 but if it was a 1200 I would be considering the pulse generators. I'm not sure if the 1000's have them or not but when they start to go youcan get the same thing happening.
 

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Let's use the K.I.S.S.theory. It's something easy. Have you done any maintenance or changes to the bike before it started misbehaving? Double check and think if that could have unintended consequences. Overly advanced timing can cause these symptoms too. Does the bike still crank at the speed it ought to after it stops or is the motor binding up. Does it roll freely, or do the brakes drag. You say you modified the gas cap. Did you do that because of a previous problem? Is a new gas cap out of your budget? Did you try squirting some combustable (carb cleaner) into the plenum and see if it made it run again? This could isolate it between fuel and spark, all other things being equal. IF it runs, like you said, after sitting, and gets you back home, I'm prone to go with some electrical thingy overheating or fuel, but you must isolate it to one system or the other to make it easier to solve.
 

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Ok, i bought a 1.8 ohm resistor to and put on yesterday, as mentioned. Re-reading the Dyna-3 instructions they begin by stating the Dyna Ignition was designed to work with stock coils, or any that have 3 ohm resistance. And they include a ballast resistor that appears to take the place of the resistor that came on the bike. I thought this was a 1.5 ohm ran in conjunction with the original coils, however, I just checked the resistance on the resistor that I took off the bike and it read 2.5 ohms. Could this mean that it really requires a 3 ohm resistor instead of the 1.8ohm that i replaced it with?
 
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