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1980 Gl100 Goldwing. I am going to give a history of the bikes know mechanical state since I started working on this problem as it may help. The first time we tried to start the bike she would not turn over, and I was believed it was a bad battery, it was put on a battery booster and this didn't help much. The starter would engage, but the engine would start to turn and then quit. A new battery was purchased and didn't help. A car mechanic tinkered with the carbs and said it was running. When I returned to hear it run, we had the same problems. Then we got it to start, but it sounded like someone was beating on the cylinder with a hammer, and was leaking fuel from the exhaust pipes. I knew a carb overhaul was necessary. I did a rough dis assembly of the carbs to see how bad they were and cleaned them up using carb cleaner, but being careful not to submerge rubber of plastic into the solution. I noticed several parts needed to be replaced so I ordered a rebuilt kit and completed the process. She now ran better, but still had the banging noise and I could smell a lot of fuel I put a temp sensor on the exhaust pipes and the number 4 cylinder was running about 25-50 degrees F cooler. I shut it down, tried to start her again, and it wouldn't turn over. I pulled the plugs and spit fuel all over the place. (Great carb rebuilt job eh?) Back in the carbs this time, and instead of using the manual, I read the forums and was adjusted the floats and bench balanced the cabs this time! I read Randaks?? page and used his pictures to move some o-rings to the correct spots and make the critical adjustments. I runs much better, but not perfect, and I still smell fuel, still number 4 cylinder. Upon further inspection the vacuum piston seemed to be binding so I used the aluminum foil polishing trick to clean that further and seems to free it up nicely. Back together again, and still the banging a low idle (900-1000) rpms. I can make the banging stop above 1500 rpms using the stock tachometer. Time to try and sync the carbs on the bike. 3-1 sync'd no problem, 2 measured no problem, but when I pulled the screw out of the number 4 intake manifold the bike would quit. I am using a single vacuum gauge. This did not happen on any of the other cylinders. I could hear the puff puff of air moving when I pulled the screw out, but the bike ran, as soon as I would test on cylinder, i would replace the screw and move to next. Any idea why the engine dies when that screw is removed, If I put the vacuum gauge on it, it runs. I did get the carbs synced, but I still have the banging at around 900 rpms. When I first start the bike I see white smoke, but it only lasts a few seconds, it appears to come from the front of the bike, but the wind can play tricks on you. Any ideas?
1980 Gl100 Goldwing. I am going to give a history of the bikes know mechanical state since I started working on this problem as it may help. The first time we tried to start the bike she would not turn over, and I was believed it was a bad battery, it was put on a battery booster and this didn't help much. The starter would engage, but the engine would start to turn and then quit. A new battery was purchased and didn't help. A car mechanic tinkered with the carbs and said it was running. When I returned to hear it run, we had the same problems. Then we got it to start, but it sounded like someone was beating on the cylinder with a hammer, and was leaking fuel from the exhaust pipes. I knew a carb overhaul was necessary. I did a rough dis assembly of the carbs to see how bad they were and cleaned them up using carb cleaner, but being careful not to submerge rubber of plastic into the solution. I noticed several parts needed to be replaced so I ordered a rebuilt kit and completed the process. She now ran better, but still had the banging noise and I could smell a lot of fuel I put a temp sensor on the exhaust pipes and the number 4 cylinder was running about 25-50 degrees F cooler. I shut it down, tried to start her again, and it wouldn't turn over. I pulled the plugs and spit fuel all over the place. (Great carb rebuilt job eh?) Back in the carbs this time, and instead of using the manual, I read the forums and was adjusted the floats and bench balanced the cabs this time! I read Randaks?? page and used his pictures to move some o-rings to the correct spots and make the critical adjustments. I runs much better, but not perfect, and I still smell fuel, still number 4 cylinder. Upon further inspection the vacuum piston seemed to be binding so I used the aluminum foil polishing trick to clean that further and seems to free it up nicely. Back together again, and still the banging a low idle (900-1000) rpms. I can make the banging stop above 1500 rpms using the stock tachometer. Time to try and sync the carbs on the bike. 3-1 sync'd no problem, 2 measured no problem, but when I pulled the screw out of the number 4 intake manifold the bike would quit. I am using a single vacuum gauge. This did not happen on any of the other cylinders. I could hear the puff puff of air moving when I pulled the screw out, but the bike ran, as soon as I would test on cylinder, i would replace the screw and move to next. Any idea why the engine dies when that screw is removed, If I put the vacuum gauge on it, it runs. I did get the carbs synced, but I still have the banging at around 900 rpms. When I first start the bike I see white smoke, but it only lasts a few seconds, it appears to come from the front of the bike, but the wind can play tricks on you. Any ideas?
