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1980 Gl100 Goldwing. I am going to give a history of the bikes know mechanical state since I started working on this problem as it may help. The first time we tried to start the bike she would not turn over, and I was believed it was a bad battery, it was put on a battery booster and this didn't help much. The starter would engage, but the engine would start to turn and then quit. A new battery was purchased and didn't help. A car mechanic tinkered with the carbs and said it was running. When I returned to hear it run, we had the same problems. Then we got it to start, but it sounded like someone was beating on the cylinder with a hammer, and was leaking fuel from the exhaust pipes. I knew a carb overhaul was necessary. I did a rough dis assembly of the carbs to see how bad they were and cleaned them up using carb cleaner, but being careful not to submerge rubber of plastic into the solution. I noticed several parts needed to be replaced so I ordered a rebuilt kit and completed the process. She now ran better, but still had the banging noise and I could smell a lot of fuel I put a temp sensor on the exhaust pipes and the number 4 cylinder was running about 25-50 degrees F cooler. I shut it down, tried to start her again, and it wouldn't turn over. I pulled the plugs and spit fuel all over the place. (Great carb rebuilt job eh?) Back in the carbs this time, and instead of using the manual, I read the forums and was adjusted the floats and bench balanced the cabs this time! I read Randaks?? page and used his pictures to move some o-rings to the correct spots and make the critical adjustments. I runs much better, but not perfect, and I still smell fuel, still number 4 cylinder. Upon further inspection the vacuum piston seemed to be binding so I used the aluminum foil polishing trick to clean that further and seems to free it up nicely. Back together again, and still the banging a low idle (900-1000) rpms. I can make the banging stop above 1500 rpms using the stock tachometer. Time to try and sync the carbs on the bike. 3-1 sync'd no problem, 2 measured no problem, but when I pulled the screw out of the number 4 intake manifold the bike would quit. I am using a single vacuum gauge. This did not happen on any of the other cylinders. I could hear the puff puff of air moving when I pulled the screw out, but the bike ran, as soon as I would test on cylinder, i would replace the screw and move to next. Any idea why the engine dies when that screw is removed, If I put the vacuum gauge on it, it runs. I did get the carbs synced, but I still have the banging at around 900 rpms. When I first start the bike I see white smoke, but it only lasts a few seconds, it appears to come from the front of the bike, but the wind can play tricks on you. Any ideas?
 

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Did you pull the idle jets and clean the side ports on them? They can be pulled using a screw in the jet but carefully so you don't damage the jet.

look like this..w/o the threads..on 80 and 81's
 

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I did pull them, soaked them for an hour and blew them out with air. Would that cause the bike to choke out if I pull the manifold screw? Maybe I should check it again, or replace it?
 

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Ok I pulled the carbs and checked the idle jets, they are clean and I can see straight though all 12 holes and the jet itself is new from a rebuild kit. Any other ideas, I am going to leave the carbs off for an hour before I re install. I will check this forum before installation for any last minute ideas! Thank you for your input.
 

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Sounds like number 4 is working fine, and the others are not.

You CAN'T sync the carbs with one gauge. Don't remove the vac screws when the bike is running.

I would look at the float settings and the needle valves. Many aftermarket valves are junk when new.

http://www.randakks.com/TechTips.htm#AA


Bill
 

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Hate to disagree but you can sync with a single gage - I do mine with a single gage and a 4 gage valve set up.

Did you pull the slow jets? On the '80 they are pressed in so you have to use a screw to pull them

Still getting fuel out of the pipes? If so float or needle are sticking.

In the kits you bought, did you use the float needle that came with it? If so that may be an issue if they aren't OEM.

one more suggestion for the forum - please be sure to use paragraphs otherwise it's difficult to read through your posts :)
 

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If the bike kills when you pull the screw on the test port on any given cylinder it's likely that you have a vacuum leak on that cylinder. you can tell by looking at the plugs. the spark plugs are one of the best diagnostic tools you have. NGK as a lot of information on reading plugs on their website.

Most aftermarket cab parts aren't as bad as some people make them out to be but there are some that are totally junk.

Steve
 

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I have seen multiple posts that indicate you can use 1,2 or 4 gauges to sync the carbs. If you use 2 or 4 you must calibrate the carbs to each other for differences in vacuum readings. If you only use one, you don't have to worry about calibration, but you do have to worry about rpms' and if the radiator fan kicks on causing rpm fluctuations. That doesn't mean their correct, it just means it has been posted!
The big point I am hearing is the bike should quit if I pull the screw on the manifold?
 

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Ah... did I pull the slow jets?

Guess not being I have no idea where they are at!

I did use after market needle jets, but I used the after market seats as well. I got the kits from Saber cycle if that helps.

Are the idle jets and the slow jets the same? There is a picture above of an idle jet, and the author (RB) indicated the 80 and 81 carbs have no threads on them. Mine have threads, and look just like the picture, but my bike is a 1980!
 

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Thank you to all for your input so far. SuperSkyPilot, you indicated a vacuum leak, and I like the sound of that, as the sync is done using vacuum. Where should I look that would isolate a vacuum leak to the number 4 cylinder? I would guess a compression test?

I cleaned all the spark plugs and will run it again when I put it back together. They have so many signs of problems and I have not put new ones in yet. They were all black and wet smelling of fuel, indicating stuck float. I could smell the gas.

Now I don't smell the fuel and they are not wet. I took a wire brush and cleaned them up we shall see.
 

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last thing would be the pilot jets, these are covered by an aluminum cap and the holes are very tiny, but the wire from a wire brush can go through them.
 

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Check the oil for fuel contamination before you do anything else. Your original description sounds like hydrolocking and its probably by fuel .
Check for a stuck float for fuel saturation and i also advise you do a compression test for possible valve troubles. Let us know how it goes.
 

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The best trick for finding a vacuum leak is this: With the engine running, use an UNLIT propane torch ( gas on but no flame) and move the tip around were you suspect you might have a leak. If there is a leak the engine will suck the propane in and the RPMs will increase. When you withdraw the torch the RPMs will come back down.

Steve
 

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Check the carb body base for a carb model number. Some one very well may have put 82-83 carbs on it. That number will tell us which year carbs they are.






nuclearbrew wrote:
Ah... did I pull the slow jets?

Guess not being I have no idea where they are at!

I did use after market needle jets, but I used the after market seats as well. I got the kits from Saber cycle if that helps.

Are the idle jets and the slow jets the same? There is a picture above of an idle jet, and the author (RB) indicated the 80 and 81 carbs have no threads on them. Mine have threads, and look just like the picture, but my bike is a 1980!
 

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Sorry took a few days off the bike to help a friend out.

Armo mentioned it might be the pilot jets(I assume the pilot screws? they are all four new.), I have heard the term idle jets and slow jets. According to the American Honda manual Chapter 4 page nine. I see there is a main jet that screws into the needle jet holder. Below that is the needle jet. I have not removed that needle jet.

Somehow reading this manual 10 plus times and removing the carbs 5 times I didn't see that little guy! That must be the one everyone says is pressed in eh?(Hope that is the problem, I will know later today!)

Machine head, I do need to change the oil anyway, so I will do that as well, once she runs smooth I will do the timeing belts.

As for compression, I did a test when I first got the bike, and don't remember the numbers exactly but I seem to remember around 120 or so with one cylinder being slightly higher at 135. That was not the "problem" cylinder either!
 

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Saber Cycle..oh NO!!! many have had problems with them sending out bad parts or the wrong ones..you may have to wrong jets. The idle jets has to pulled out with a screw, they are pressed in on the 80 and 81's if you didn't have to use a screw to get it out you haven't pulled them look at the picture I posted above..the idle jet looks liek that w/o the threads on it..similar to primary and secondary jets but not the same..
 

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Saber parts not good eh? I pulled the main jet/needle jet holder combo and pressed the needle jet out with a golf tee! They looked fine, but seemed to backed up when I blew through them. Soaked em in cleaner for 30 minutes and they were clear!

Good, just put it back together and all my problems will be solved... hey just one more look at the pilot screws.:sadguy:

Dang I broke the tip of one off in the carb body and cannot press it out. I am thinking of taking it to a machine shop and hoping for the best, or maybe heating it with a torch and hoping to push it out. (not my favorite idea due to the whole gas and flame mix!)

Oh the needle jets are the correct size, as I cross referenced the numbers with the original ones before installing. ( Not that simple to read as you get older!)
 

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I think you need to put all of your original parts back in the carbs. 30 year old OEM parts are better than brand new aftermarket parts. Especially if they are from Saber.
As Machinehead pointed out, your symptoms are of a sticking float or a leaking float valve.
When you say gas spewed from the spark plug holes, do you mean from more than one hole?

The knocking is a symptom of the carbs being out of sync.
 

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I have all the floats set and the carbs are bench sync'd.
The fuel came out of two cylinders originally, but now that problem is solved.

I would love to put the original parts back, but I had to do the rebuild at a friends house due to no garage at my house.

He put his house on the market and cleaned his garage and threw out the bag with all my parts in it! My fault should have taken them home! So now one of the cheap pilot screws broke off in the carb, and is stuck. ( I work on bikes because it's fun!) I broke the piece off myself, and cause my own problems!

I didn't break it like everyone else seems to. Mine the sharp tip broke off and is stuck in the carburetor body. I have tried dental picks, broken sewing needles and can't get it out. I am about ready to get a small drill, but am wondering if there is a better way.

I am sure the hole is tapered, but right now the carburetor is junk!
 

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Out here in NC and Irene is on her way in, so I buttoned up the bike to keep as much water out as possible. She runs like a top around 2000 rpm. Smooth as silk, but as she drops below the banging starts. I am sure it is related to the broken pilot screw (idle screw) do you all agree?
 
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