[kylemason]

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Just a quick question. I am helping an olderfriend replace his clutch cable on his 1980 Goldwing. I am mechanically proficent and am wondering if there are any tips not covered in the Chiltons manual (he has itI haven't read it yet)for replacing the cable. I am told by him I must remove the rear tire and exhaust(which side?) to replace it. Any other tips, hints, suggestions?

Thanks

Kyle

Gainesville, Florida

 

[Whiskerfish]

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The only reason you have to remove anything is to get to the rear cover. There are 2 bolts that hold the cover on and it can be a minor PITA to get to.I am not terribly familiar with the exhaust on the 1100 but once you lay on the ground under thebike you should see exactly what you need to remove. It might be a little aggravating of a jobbut not bad.

 

[oldgoat]

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Not sure what why you have to remove exhaust & rear tire.
I have just replaced the clutch cable on my '80. Both ends are visible, you don't have to remove anything other than the false tank
I joined the bottom of the new one to the top of the old one & pulled them out at the bottom. It was a bit tricky on my bike to get the cables down past the side of the actual gas tank & frame area but doable.

IMO, there are maybe some other things you could remove (airbox) but on an '80 certainly not the exhaust & tire.

 

[longrider]

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WHOA! Removal of the rear tire and exhaust is not necessary. Take off the seat and false tank. The clutch cable is easy to reach from the right side of the bike just next to the rear brake switch. once you disconnect it from the clutch lever that connects to the transmission, and the handlebar clutch control, you can CAREFULLY pull the cable through. You then route the new cable back through the way you pulled it out and reconnect the ends. Check the gentleman's version of the shop manual. I don't know what he's using but my Chilton and Honda manual don't show tire and exhaust removal.



Oh yeah. Welcome to the best Goldwing site on the planet!

 

[exavid]

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I've changed clutch cables on an '80, '81 and '82 GL1100 and didn't have to remove anything other than the top cover, also known as a faux tank. Removing that makes it easier to fish the cable through especially is someone evil has used tie wraps on it. On the two bikes I didn't have to remove the top cover I just used the old cable as a fish tape to pull the new one through. It does help if you loosen the triangular engine mount bracket on the right side to make the cable easier to pass under the bracket.

 

[Whiskerfish]

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Is there not a cover plate over the tranny end of the cable on the 1100?? I know there is on a 1000 and thought they were the same??

 

[oldgoat]

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On my '80 GL1100 you can see the lower end of the clutch cable where it attaches to the operating lever without removing anything. The operating lever is out in the open.

 

[Whiskerfish]

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oldgoat wrote:

On my '80 GL1100 you can see the lower end of the clutch cable where it attaches to the operating lever without removing anything. The operating lever is out in the open.

Thank you Sir! I am still learning about these newfangled 1100's:shock::shock:

 

[kylemason]

imported post

Thanks a million for the replies! I am heading out there Sunday and will look carefully so I don't have to remove the tire and exhaust. I knew this was the place to ask. I will also use the tape and pull method of replacement, sounds the easiest/least likely to make a mistake in routing.

Thanks

Kyle

 

[exavid]

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The clutch cable attachment to the engine on the 1000 is a verifiable PIA! Much simpler to remove the cable from the engine on the 1100s.

 

[Armando]

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Hi Kyle, It is definetly not necessary to remove the rear wheel and exhast. The so-called tank pod and the seat are in the way, and you must remove them. The space is al bit limited between the actual fuel tank and the frame, so easy does it! Just make sure that youroute the new cable in exactly the same pace of the old one.

Armando.

 

[krazy al]

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haveing done mine on 82 1100 aspencade.the hardest part was getting the faux tank off.you have to take two bolts out of seat in the back.one on each side.slide seat back then take both lower faring sides off.there are two bolts one each side.mine were 10mm.then two bolts at the back of tank also 10mm.move tank back then take cable off then reroute new cable.

 

[ROCKANDFINISH]

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I'm I missing something here? Says in manual to remove clutch cap. Loosenlock nut turn in adjusting screw till slight resistanceis felt. From that position turn adjusting screw counter-clockwise 1 turn and tighten lock nut Install cap. When I was takin off clutch cable. PO had bothlocknuts on top side of bracket. They are supposed to be one on top and one on bottom right? Just wana make sure I do this correct. Any imput be most helpfull. Thanks

 

[ARKnapp]

imported post

Remove seat
Remove false tank cover
Loosen bottom both nuts and the remove top at clutch handle, if too tight a bend pull up the bottom just s bit
Look at the cable and visually check for ties, remove any and all.
Tie a piece of string or #16 stranded wire to the bottom end.
Pull the cable out, with the attached string or wire taped to it in a smooth transition
Note the places where it is tight and the sharp turn around the front going up
When all is loose, it may now be easier to remove the clutch end, note how it goes, do not make any sharp turns
With the cable out and now the sting or wire in place, attach the new cable and pull the wire and push the cable following the same pattern the old cable was removed
When all in, leave loose, fit the bottom, fit the top, then adjust top and bottom in harmony, test the clutch action with free play and clutching action, do not tie up yet
After all adjusted, test the clutch action, by placing front wheel up against a curb, place in 1st gear and let out the clutch slowly, no gas, and try to mount the curb, the clutch action without gas should stall the motor.
With bike on flat surface, and in neutral at idle, pull in clutch and try 1st, then 2nd...all gears. Does it shift quietly and smoothly
After all gears work test on the road, in all loads and all speeds, is there enough free play, is the clutch handle loose when in gear running
Everything seems right, go home and snug her up, tie the clutch cable up, then grease the bottom end to keep water from entering the sheath. Verify the nuts are secure at bottom, verify the adjuster and covering are secure at top,
Ride

 

[ROCKANDFINISH]

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Like I said PO had both nuts on top of bracket. When I put new cable on with nuts on top and bottom way to much free play. Adjusted it down to get free play out but could't get lock nut started on bottom. Whats the deal abought the lock nut and adjusting screw on back cover,after u take clutch cap off?

 

[wda-83wing]

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the 1100 (80-83) do not have the adjustment nut under the cover. thats for the 1000 only (75-79).

this wrong. see later post.

 

[ROCKANDFINISH]

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That seems kinda odd. Took the clutch cover plug off and there looks like a lock nut and adjusting screw there.

 

[ARKnapp]

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You don't have to take that cover off unless the cable can not be balanced to give good clutch feel and control by adjusting both top and bottom simultaneously to get close, the test, then adjust bottom then fine tune at top.

Only after all this, with no luck will you have to play with the hatch, a lock nut and adjusting screw

Set up the lower and upper clutch cable as per the book. Then if all fails adjust the internal mechanisms.

When you disconnected the original cable, it sounds like it was installed incorrectly, was the arm bent? The eye at the bottom may have been widely opened to remve the cable lock and not squeezed shut.

 

[wda-83wing]

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i stand corrected. looked in my manual and there is a adjustment for 80-81 under the cover.

there thats better.

 

[ROCKANDFINISH]

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The bottom arm on the clutch bracket dosn't look bent. Got the bottom lock nut on barley, locked the top. The thing that worries me is I have to adjust the hand lever adjuster out quit alot to get travel. Took the cap off and looks like it's gonna be a PNA to adjust. Never adjusted one before. Have u ever or know of anybody ever adjusted the screw before? Also I was replacing some bulbs in tach and speedometer and was reinstalling them. When I tighten them up they seemed to be real loose. Put them on the way they came off,metal bushing, rubber bushing, flat washer and cap screw. I was thinking about putting o-ring on before washer to snug them up alittle tighter or are they supposed to be alittle loose for vibration?