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hi. i'm hoping someone can help me here, i've been working hard on my bike for a month now all completed, only to discover that when i put the bike into gear and squeeze the clutch handle nothing the bike just stay's into gear, i've put it on the center stand
and pride open the clutch has far has it will go still nothing, it's like it is binding
or something have i missed anything.lot's of pressure on the clutch, if i slip it in netural
the wheel spin's fine put it in gear just bring's to a stop, squeeze the clutch hande it should spin right? but it won't

i've spent a lot on time and money trying to put this together, any help is alway's appricated. ty


drking:clapper:
 

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We'll get ya dialed in but Im confused after reading your post. So I will ask a few questions.

I assume the wing now runs. When you squeeze in the clutch handle, are you feeling the spring tension?

When you put the bike in gear, engine running, clutch pulled in, does it grind or does it just go into gear?

when you let the clutch out while the bike is in gear, does this stall out the engine? is there any noises during this action?

How much free play in your clutch lever?
 

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no not running tried to start but all i'm getting is a clicking sound from the solinide, i think maybe it's the timing i set it by the 1980 owners manual, the motor is 83 asp
i haven't started it at all just got it back together.on the center stand if i pull the clutch handle and the bike is in gear you cannot move the rear wheeel, it's like it bring 's up on something.if you tap your hand on the desk the same reaction, that's has far has it will go. hope this help's you
oh i have adjusted the clutch many different way's has far out has it will go, lot's of tension but make's no different
the wheel still dosen't move.
 

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i checked the owner's manual for the timing on the 1980 it is T1, that's what i set the timing for on the 1983 asp.
is this correct?
 

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does your engine turn over with no plugs in it if you crank it by hand?

do you have the manual for the bike? there is a downloadable manual on this web site. It takes a while to load into your computer but it's worth it if you need the info!

You must get the bike running before you worry about the tranny issue. How long has this thing been dorment?

there is a stator plug that you can remove on the left side of the trans facing the back of the bike. Looks like a cap with a bolt head on it. You remove the cover & look inside. You will see a nut in there. I think it's a 17 mm socket but it's late so it might not be. You put a socket on that nut & turn clockwise only. This is with no plugs in the motor. If it turns over, than you have to check all connections on your main power wires leading to your starter from the battery. You can test your starter once you are sure that your motor turns, by putting power to the main starter wire. this will bypass the solonoid just in case it's hooped!

You have a wet clutch system, It might just be sticky from sitting. Keep us posted!!
 

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Cam timing is critical. When you set your cams & you think you have them right, You must turn the engine over by hand only... for a minimum of 2 full revolutions. If it stops, do not force it because valves can make contact with pistons & wreck your engine.

On this forum, I think it's it tech tips, you will find a step by step guide to replacing belts with pic's. You must confirm that this is done dead on!!!
 

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not sure how long the motor have been sitting i know it's been awhile, i just baught it,when i put the new timing belt's on i did has the manual instructed made 2 full turn's without the plug's in seemed fine ended right on the correct mark's.ok i guess tomorrow is another day will keep informing you......
 

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As hatchetman said, the clutch problem could go away by itself once you start the engine. The clutch should be advanced by the manual. If there is too much tension it could break the cable (it happened to me once).
 

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Set the clutch adjuster ( at rear of motor on right side ) so that you have 1/4 to 1/2" of slack. You can fine tune it later using the handlebar adjuster. When you pull in the clutch handle you should have a period of no resistance, then feel the clutch engaging with some tension on the lever. With bike off, put bike in gear, pull in clutch and turn the rear wheel. Seeing as the bike has set there may be some inital resistance to turning but the wheel should turn freely.

You should be able to feel a short period of no resistance at the lever and then feel resistance when the clutch engages.

Just do things one step at a time, cross it off your list and go to the next thing. Make sure everything turns over before you start it.
 

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yes i tried that still no movement in the rear wheel.i've been using this bike for the past 3 yrs. just replaced the motor and
exhaust, what if i put the bike down and pushed it. wouldl that not free it up?
 

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Have you changed the engine oil after that 3 years sitting? If not then change it before doing anything further! So, when the oil is new and when you are absolutely sure that the timing belts are installed properly and that the engine turns freely by your hand (without plugs), then I would try to start the engine, let it idle until it warms up to the working temperature and pull in and release the clutch lever several times (without trying to engage the gear). Then stop the engine, engage the 2nd gear, squeeze the clutch lever and try to push the bike a little (with ignition switch off, of course) and see if it will release. As it is wet clutch, the plates will stick together sometimes if not used for a long time.
Just an opinion!
 

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yes i have changed the oil and filter everything i could think off have been done.ok one problem with starting the bike i have to move it outside into the parking garage where i am in my shop
people would not appriciate me starting it up lol.and thank's
for the tip.has for the clicking sound when i push the start button, it worked fine when i parked it in october....if the 80 and the 83 timing are the same then i'm not worried i've set the time many times before alway's 100% dead on
 

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Since the bike has sat up for a while, have you give any thought to the fact that the rear brake just might be sticking?

I also recommend getting it running before worrying about the clutch. Just make sure it's in neutral, get the motor running, then work on the clutch problem.
 

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I think that the timing is the same for all GL1000 and GL1100 bikes. As far as I know the first change was made at GL1200 model. Now as for the starter, just do as hatchetman said - inspect all the wiring and contacts from solenoid to the starter. If find nothing wrong then try to short the solenoid outputs with a screwdriver. If still nothing then try to feed the starter directly from the battery using the jump cables. If no cranking again then a bad starter. Of course, check the battery first of all! Maybe it is week, as simple as that?
 

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Bagmaster wrote:
Since the bike has sat up for a while, have you give any thought to the fact that the rear brake just might be sticking?
....
I don't think so, as he said that the wheel turns fine in neutral!:baffled:
 

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Great advice!
Oil should be low viscosity with the temperatures around here. If you jump out the solenoid be careful of sparks, especially if battery is bad or going bad. It is important that you get the engine going first as the guys say and then do the clutch check. If you roll the bike out of the garage then the brakes must be releasing.

Do an off the bike charge on the battery and check the specific gravity of the electrolyte to verify you have enough amps when you attempt to start. Be sure you are in neutral. If the battery is doubtful replace it, but if you have a separate source and jumper cables use them without the bike's battery but keep the on time no more than 5 seconds because you will burn out the starter motor, give it time to cool.

Get back with the results, no rush and think through everything you do and write it down. Good luck!
 

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ok here is what i have done so far the bike has been striped down to frame alone, total rebuild, all new parts brakes , motor,everything very carefully put back together.new oil in the motor, new battery, also alway's on a charger. only put on the bike to test it. nothing has been overlooked. brakes have been all changed and bled and tested all working fine. today i will
take your advice and test the wiring again, thank's
 

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I think trying to turn the wheel by hand after it setting to me would be difficult I'd try it in 5th then you would have leverage over the transmission ratio-in 1st the transmission has the mechanical advantage over you,I tried to turn my 1200 wheel by hand in first gear it was quite difficult.As was previously mentioned get the starter working then try it.Also the timing is not likely if you get just a clicking with no other noises or vibrations.In my humble opinion pushing it in high gear is a darn good way to pre test both issues.
 
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