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Hi folks,

I have a 1980 GL1100 which has a number of age-related ailments. I am looking for advice on some of them.

1) Worn out front shocks. I've already replaced the back shocks with Progressives. (Actually, I had this done by a shop.) I am thinking of doing the same for the front. I am assuming front shocks are NOT a DIY project unless you have the right special tools and training (of which I have neither!). True?

2) Signifcant cracks in the fairing. If it weren't for the fact that nothing has fallen out, I would use the word "shattered" to descibe the cracked area. I am looking for advice on materials to use to repair the cracks as well as techniques (goes back to "lack of knowledge" - I've been a rider for the last 30 years, payingshops for repairs and maintenance, but the budget won't allow that anymore so I have to learn. A mixed blessing, as I am sure you all know!) The bike colour is burgundy, original colour. so I will need to know where to get whatever will cover the crack repairs with the right colour.

3) Intermittent ignition electrical problems. Disassembly showed me that the CDI devices had melted out their black whatever-that-stuff-is. I've installed replacement parts, but have no idea if the CDI's were the source of the problem or merely the victim of some other root problem. Thoughts and opinions are welcome, as well as fedback from anyone who has experienced this same problem. I'm calling this one "fingers-crossed fixed".

4) When getting at the CDI's, I had to dismount the fairing. I discovered a very strange wiring artifact: A red power wire ran from inside the fairing all the way back to the battery terminal. It was fused, but I cannot believe it was designd that way. Any thoughts? Especially any thoughts about where it really should have been wired to (some power point inside the fairing, I would expect)?

5) While removing the fairing, the antenna wire prevented me from taking the fairing away from the bike. I see where inside the fairing it plugs into the harness, but I cannot see how I would ever get it back together if I were to unplug it and draw the wire out of the fairing. There just doesn't sem to be much room between the inside fairing wall panel and the stereo electronics. How could I thread the antenna out and back in again?

6) Curiously, I noticed the stereo has a DIN connector for something, but also there is a second DIN connector with nothing plugged into it. Any ideas about that second DIN connector?!?

7) Heavy engine vibration. I bought a Bar Snake but have not yet installed it. It should dampen the vibration through the handle bar, but it doesn't address the root cause. Any guesses as to what the root cause might be and what I can do to diagnose and correct them? The bike has nearly 100,000 kilometres on it (60,000 miles for those of you south of the border).

8) Stator? Given the mileage, I've been led to expect the stator to wear out soon. This doesn't sound like a DIY project, at least not for one with my skills (better at breaking than at fixing:)). Should I address the stator as a "preventive maintenance" issue or leave it until I have to address it? From scanning some of the other posts, it sounds like there might be other options available. Advice and opinions are solicited.



There's probably more, but that's all that comes to mind right now. Do I have my work cut out for me or what?!?



Thanks one and all,

Richard
 

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Yep, thats one good sized job you have cut out for you. I'll try to help if I can. When I rebuilt my 1100 ( see link below) the only thing I had the shop do was the fork seals. Thats because the clymer manual made it sound like mission impossible. I took them to a local shop that does alot of work on the older bikes ( not the Honda shop).

It would probably be cheaper and less of a hastle to just replace the fairing. ( eBay and craigslist area great source for parts)

The red wire leading to the battery can be tossed. There are accessory terminals on the fuse block located under the false tank.

Is your radio the factory clarion? That antena wire should be routed out thru the hole on the lower left side of the fairing, right?

As for the engine vibration, is there a noise that comes with the vibration?....you might want to check your motor mounts and frame for cracks.

Oh yea, Welcome to the worlds greatest goldwing site!
 
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82winginvegas wrote:
It would probably be cheaper and less of a hastle to just replace the fairing. ( eBay and craigslist area great source for parts)

The red wire leading to the battery can be tossed. There are accessory terminals on the fuse block located under the false tank.

Is your radio the factory clarion? That antena wire should be routed out thru the hole on the lower left side of the fairing, right?

As for the engine vibration, is there a noise that comes with the vibration?....you might want to check your motor mounts and frame for cracks.
I'll have to consider replacing the fairing. I have more time than money available, but not all that much time either. It sucks to work 500 miles away from where you live!

I saw the accessory terminals, but I have to wonder why the wire even needs to leave the fairing. There has to be enough power being fed to to the fairing for the headlight for example that this red wire could be connected inside the fairing. Am I being naive here? Is there something I'm missing? (There's lots I don't understand, so be prepared for many more questions!)

Yes, the radio is the factory Clarion and the antenna wire routes through its own hole on the lower left side, then seems to route - tightly - around behind the stereo electronics module before reaching the connector.

I would say no particular noise, just vibration. The vibration is most intense at highway speeds, of course. I suspect it is just "mechanical wear", but in reading about the alternator alternatives, I have to wonder if the timing belts could be looser than they should be and if so whether that could contribute.
 

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Wow, stupendous job. Exactly where I'm sitting right now, picture one....hehehe Hope it comes out as good, this is what I had in my minds eye when I started and decided to tear it down and restore it right. Sometimes I second guess myself and the time it will take but it's pics like this that restore my faith in it being the right way to go. Thanks again.

And oh sorry not to derail your thread but he touched several of your points, several are covered in detail in multiple posts. i.e. your stator,the search function in the upper left of the page will lead you to them, type in stator replacement and it should pop up a handful for you to sort through which will feed you other related info so you can make an informed decision as possible. The mileage on your bike isn't significant in any way if it's been maintained decent. As for your stator for example, I wouldn't mess with it but would just start keeping your eye out for someone with a cheap replacement now before you get boxed in when it does give up the ghost and have to get one short notice, that's when it hurts.

Same for fairing repair, search fairing repair.

What would worry me the most, and I'd hope you, ;p is that vibration. Get a good shop light or very good flashlight and as he said your going to have to crawl around all the joints of your frame and motor mount points to investigate for cracks. Clean all the gunk and road grime off so you can see cracks good.
Good luck and stay safe.
 

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"The vibration is most intense at highway speeds, of course. I suspect it is just "mechanical wear","

Did you investigate your tire balancing? New tires? Old tires? Straight line vibration?, in the corners? only under acceleration? deceleration? all the time?
 

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Personally I would rather save the $$ for a good looking used fairing than use one that looks like its been glued back together. Repairing a fairing that is in too bad of shape could end up costing you more.

I used a circuit tester and quick splice terminals to connect my radio and lights to wires inside my fairing without any problems. In my opinion , as long as you don't go overboard with the accessories, tapping into the fairings wiring harness shouldn't be a problem as long as you use inline fuses.

I'm sure there will be somebody come along that can help you with your Clarion radio questions.

As far as the vibration at highway speeds......You might also want to check your steering bearings also. I would think if your timing belts are loose you would have tapping noises coming from your heads. If your concerned about the belts , get em changed ASAP! One broken belt at highway speeds and the motor will lock up. Then you'll be replacing allot more than just the belts.
 

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I have a Hondaline fairing (Silver/Gray) from an '83 Aspencade that originally had a Clarion Type II in it. No cracks, and there were 2 or 3 toggle switches installed into the right knee panel that I would be willing to let go for $90+shipping.

I bought it before I found out that I could fix not only the crack on the lower mount, but the cause of said crack as well...so now all it's doing is taking up space in Man-Land.

Mike
 
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MDKramer wrote:
I have a Hondaline fairing (Silver/Gray) from an '83 Aspencade that originally had a Clarion Type II in it. No cracks, and there were 2 or 3 toggle switches installed into the right knee panel that I would be willing to let go for $90+shipping.

I bought it before I found out that I could fix not only the crack on the lower mount, but the cause of said crack as well...so now all it's doing is taking up space in Man-Land.
Thanks, Mike. At this point, I am still considering the repair option. Was your crack on the mount itself or the fairing panel? If the panel, please let me know what you did to fix it.

If I were to buy your fairing, first would it fit a 1980, and second what would it take to change the colour? (I have never done any body work, so assume I know nothing including what kind of paint or whatever I would need.)
 

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Not sure on the other stuff, but I wouldn't expect the stator to be going out after just 60k miles. If it still puts out 17-65v AC, should be fine.

Vibration, could be the carbs. I recently 'restored' an 83 that had sit around for pretty much 6 years in someone's backyard. Once I installed Randakk's carb kit and changed out the old timing belts, it runs REALLY smooth on the freeway. I mean, you simply cannot feel any vibration whatsoever at 4k rpm under normal load. I never thought a 4 cylinder could do that.

Now the low rpm rattle/noise is a different matter that I'm trying to sort out. Probably normal though.
 
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82winginvegas wrote:
It would probably be cheaper and less of a hastle to just replace the fairing. ( eBay and craigslist area great source for parts)
eBay wasn't much help.

craigslist seems to want to restrict my searches to the DCtri-state area. Any advice on how to get a craiglist search for the whole country?
 

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rjs wrote:
Thanks, Mike. At this point, I am still considering the repair option. Was your crack on the mount itself or the fairing panel? If the panel, please let me know what you did to fix it.

If I were to buy your fairing, first would it fit a 1980, and second what would it take to change the colour? (I have never done any body work, so assume I know nothing including what kind of paint or whatever I would need.)
Yes, it will bolt straight up to an '80. That's why I bought it. My own is an '80 ;)

My fairing cracked out along the right side mount due to the upper mount bolt (through the frame, up under the tank shell) losing it's nut. I wrapped heavy fiberglass cloth from the edge of the face panel, across the mount surface, and about 2" up the inside panel of the fairing. Drilled it, masked it off, and sprayed it down with Krylon satin black. Unless you're really looking for it, you can't see it.

For cracks on the face surfaces...Man, I wouldn't even try it, but then again, I've never been really good at body work. You're looking at trying to repair cracked ABS plastic, and I've never seen, or heard of a really good way for a backyard body-man to do it.

I'd planned on taking that fairing (and the rest of my pans) to a guy locally who has a shop and is highly recommended by bikers around here. My old girl looks good as she sits, but some of the road dings in her just annoy me when I'm polishing her up. :D

Mike
 
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chris in va wrote:
Not sure on the other stuff, but I wouldn't expect the stator to be going out after just 60k miles. If it still puts out 17-65v AC, should be fine.

Vibration, could be the carbs. I recently 'restored' an 83 that had sit around for pretty much 6 years in someone's backyard. Once I installed Randakk's carb kit and changed out the old timing belts, it runs REALLY smooth on the freeway. I mean, you simply cannot feel any vibration whatsoever at 4k rpm under normal load. I never thought a 4 cylinder could do that.

Now the low rpm rattle/noise is a different matter that I'm trying to sort out. Probably normal though.
I don't have a problem with the stator, but someone "who should know" told me I could expect problems by 100,000 km. Perhaps he meant 100,000 miles? Since my bike is fast approaching 100,000 km, I am worrying about it deciding to go.

As for the carbs, your story sounds a lot like mine. I bought from a little old lady widow some years after her husband stopped riding it. Can you explain why the carbs could affect vibration? I really don't get that aspect. As for the belts, I thought I read another message where the author replaced old belts and saw an improvement, so that I can understand. A little loose or stretched and things would run much less well, but not bad enough to force you to do anything. :)

Can you tell me more about the carb kit and what "installing" it really means?

Thanks,
 

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The Stator issue was on the GL1200 models.

The hardest part of doing the rebuild kit is getting the carbs off the bike and then separating them. I then took them apart and took the carb bodies into a good bike shop to get them sonic bathed. Then did the rebuild, but make sure you have the floats adjusted properlybefore you put it together.
 
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