[gdbaergen]

imported post

I've had intermittant problems with my engine dying on my 1981 GL 1100. Wiggling the key seems to have rectified it but now it won't power up at all when the switch is on. Has anyone got any experience in trouble shooting this or in replacing theignition switch?

 

[grambo]

imported post

you might be able to pull it out and pull off the bottom cap and fix it...might be a spring in there too...but some are 1 peice and not fixable....but i could be wrong....i have pulled some apart and fixed them but cant remember what bike or model

 

[RB]

imported post

You can buy replacement parts for this on ebay from georgefixit in Fl..do an search for goldwing..he'll be in there someplace..

Or take the ignition apart a little solder on the contacts raises them up and makes a good connection but solder won't last as long a the original copper..maybe 4 to 5 years not 30,

Or it coudl be a bad connection anyplace in the circuit but if key wiggling solves it bad ignition connects points most likely

 

[Air_Cooled_Nut]

imported post

I used my service manual to take mine out and apart (1981 GL1100). It's been over a year so I don't remember details but here's some pictures of it apart...

"Exploded view" of the assembly:

 

[Air_Cooled_Nut]

imported post

 

[Air_Cooled_Nut]

imported post

Showing where the bar rests and the area it slides on to make contact (close the circuit):

 

[Air_Cooled_Nut]

imported post

Showing where the bar rests and the area it slides on to make contact (close the circuit):

 

[Air_Cooled_Nut]

imported post

The ball bearings ride on the pointy teeth inside the housing and thus give you the individual key settings (Off, On, Start, etc.):

 

[brianinmaine]

imported post

about 2/3 down this page..
https://www.partsnmore.com/cat_index.php?model=gl1000-1100&category=electrical

their repair kit is $12, the whole switch is $20 (plus shipping). of course if you replace the whole switch, you would have another key to carry, or you could take the new switch to a locksmith to get it re keyed to your original key.
good luck!

 

[Air_Cooled_Nut]

imported post

brianinmaine wrote:

about 2/3 down this page..
https://www.partsnmore.com/cat_index.php?model=gl1000-1100&category=electrical

their repair kit is $12, the whole switch is $20 (plus shipping)...

Thanks for the link!

Since the whole assembly has to be removed either way and the tumbler rarely goes bad (keys will fail first) I'd recommend just getting the repair kit. However it would be a good idea to have a duplicate key made...this advice goes to anyone with an automobile or motorcycle. Tuck the original away and always use the duplicate, this way you'll always have a spare key and when you need a key made it will fit perfectly. Anybody remember the movie "Multiplicity" with Michael Keaton? You don't make a duplicate using a duplicate:dude: