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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,
i just bought a decent looking 1981 Goldwing. I pulled the ignition switch because there was no key. Took it to a locksmith and had a new key made and now it seems to work fine..

When I plugged it back in and turned it to on I got nothing, no crank, no lights, nothing. The battery is brand new.

I found the main 30a fuse to be bad and replaced it. Still nothing. I removed the starter relay to better clean it and found another 30a fuse connecting the 2 large posts on top of the relay.

Is there supposed to be a fuse between those 2 posts? It doesn't seem like there should be. Can anyone shed some light on this and also what else could cause this no power situation other than the main fuse/fuses?
Thanks,
bix49
 

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No, there should not be a fuse between the main posts of the relay, bet it was blown. How did the wiring that plugs in on the top of the starter relay look? Get a test light and start checking for where power is and is not. Also check the battery ground cable.
 

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Wonder if there is some confusion? Are you asking if this fuse belongs? Does the solenoid look like it has just been replaced by an aftermarket? See pictures below. :unsure: One of the tabs on the fuse holder is a dummy. It only exists as a mount and has no electrical connection. Hope that helps.

Screenshot (39).png Screenshot (41)_LI.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hello,
i just bought a decent looking 1981 Goldwing. I pulled the ignition switch because there was no key. Took it to a locksmith and had a new key made and now it seems to work fine..

When I plugged it back in and turned it to on I got nothing, no crank, no lights, nothing. The battery is brand new.

I found the main 30a fuse to be bad and replaced it. Still nothing. I removed the starter relay to better clean it and found another 30a fuse connecting the 2 large posts on top of the relay.

Is there supposed to be a fuse between those 2 posts? It doesn't seem like there should be. Can anyone shed some light on this and also what else could cause this no power situation other than the main fuse/fuses?
Thanks,
bix49
Hello,
i just bought a decent looking 1981 Goldwing. I pulled the ignition switch because there was no key. Took it to a locksmith and had a new key made and now it seems to work fine..

When I plugged it back in and turned it to on I got nothing, no crank, no lights, nothing. The battery is brand new.

I found the main 30a fuse to be bad and replaced it. Still nothing. I removed the starter relay to better clean it and found another 30a fuse connecting the 2 large posts on top of the relay.

Is there supposed to be a fuse between those 2 posts? It doesn't seem like there should be. Can anyone shed some light on this and also what else could cause this no power situation other than the main fuse/fuses?
Thanks,
bix49
Yes it was blown. The wires to the top of the relay look fine. No corrosion, they didn't look burned and they were bolted tight. I haven't found all the ground wires, I think there are 3. The main one from the battery bolts to the frame on the left side of the bike toward the rear of the engine. Could the handlebar starter switch be bad. I believe that
Hello,
i just bought a decent looking 1981 Goldwing. I pulled the ignition switch because there was no key. Took it to a locksmith and had a new key made and now it seems to work fine..

When I plugged it back in and turned it to on I got nothing, no crank, no lights, nothing. The battery is brand new.

I found the main 30a fuse to be bad and replaced it. Still nothing. I removed the starter relay to better clean it and found another 30a fuse connecting the 2 large posts on top of the relay.

Is there supposed to be a fuse between those 2 posts? It doesn't seem like there should be. Can anyone shed some light on this and also what else could cause this no power situation other than the main fuse/fuses?
Thanks,
bix49
Wonder if there is some confusion? Are you asking if this fuse belongs? Does the solenoid look like it has just been replaced by an aftermarket? See pictures below. :unsure: One of the tabs on the fuse holder is a dummy. It only exists as a mount and has no electrical connection. Hope that helps.

View attachment 323840 View attachment 323839
I have something else to add. The bike does crank when I jump the starter relay although no power at any other time.
 

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Wonder if there is some confusion? Are you asking if this fuse belongs? Does the solenoid look like it has just been replaced by an aftermarket? See pictures below. :unsure: One of the tabs on the fuse holder is a dummy. It only exists as a mount and has no electrical connection. Hope that helps.

View attachment 323840 View attachment 323839
I am trying to figure out where that picture on the "Left" came from........lol...
 

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Bix49, I don't have a GL 1100 manual but believe the following might be the case.

1. The 30-amp fuse (located by the relay) gets "input" power from the battery positive post.

2.. Output power from the 30-amp fuse goes to the Ignition Switch.

30-amp fuse....ignition switch.....starter switch......power to trigger the relay.....!!!

Maybe someone with a GL1100 manual can confirm this configuration...!
 

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Could the handlebar starter switch be bad. I believe that I have something else to add.
The bike does crank when I jump the starter relay although no power at any other time.
Yes, the starter buttons are notorious for getting clogged up and not working. A quick test is to shoot a mess of WD-40 around the button while working it a few dozen times. If the switch starts working after that, it's best to take the switch apart and clean it, adding dielectric grease to the contact points.
 

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Yes it was blown. The wires to the top of the relay look fine. No corrosion, they didn't look burned and they were bolted tight. I haven't found all the ground wires, I think there are 3. The main one from the battery bolts to the frame on the left side of the bike toward the rear of the engine. Could the handlebar starter switch be bad. I believe that


I have something else to add. The bike does crank when I jump the starter relay although no power at any other time.
You stated in your first post there was no power to anything, when you get that fixed worry about the start button, which probably works. Never seen one on an 1100 not work.
 

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There are only 2 grounds from Honda.
1) The main one from the battery bolts to the frame on the left side of the bike toward the rear of the engine.

2) Green wire from the coils to the frame at the head bearings.

I have never seen a 1100 switch be bad.
 

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Yes it was blown. The wires to the top of the relay look fine. No corrosion, they didn't look burned and they were bolted tight. I haven't found all the ground wires, I think there are 3. The main one from the battery bolts to the frame on the left side of the bike toward the rear of the engine. Could the handlebar starter switch be bad. I believe that


I have something else to add. The bike does crank when I jump the starter relay although no power at any other time.
Maybe try to get a starting point. First thing is if you unplug the 4 small wires from the solenoid and you have a good fuse in the solenoid this is what you should see.

The 2 wires closest to the fuse must have power. (12 volts) Do they?

Make a couple jumper wires and jump from battery positive to either of the front terminals. Then jump from ground to the other front terminal. BEWARS: The bike needs to be in neutral as when you touch the last wire the engine should spin.

WHAT ARE YOUR RESULTS OF BOTH TESTS?

EDIT: One other thought. If you discover that the two terminals closest to the fuse do not have power check that the cable that comes from the battery, goes to the post on the solenoid marked with a "B." for battery. The other post with an "M" is for motor, like starter motor. Id you flip flop the cables the two the fuse will have no power available to it. If the fuse has no power the two small terminals closest to the fuse will be dead as well.
 

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Maybe try to get a starting point. First thing is if you unplug the 4 small wires from the solenoid and you have a good fuse in the solenoid this is what you should see.

The 2 wires closest to the fuse must have power. (12 volts) Do they?

Make a couple jumper wires and jump from battery positive to either of the front terminals. Then jump from ground to the other front terminal. BEWARS: The bike needs to be in neutral as when you touch the last wire the engine should spin.

WHAT ARE YOUR RESULTS OF BOTH TESTS?

EDIT: One other thought. If you discover that the two terminals closest to the fuse do not have power check that the cable that comes from the battery, goes to the post on the solenoid marked with a "B." for battery. The other post with an "M" is for motor, like starter motor. Id you flip flop the cables the two the fuse will have no power available to it. If the fuse has no power the two small terminals closest to the fuse will be dead as well.
Mike, Regarding the 4 small wires....

Two of them are to activate (trigger) the relay. (No power unless you press the starter switch)

One of them is (input power) to the fuse holder. (Always power from the battery)

One of them is (output power) from the fuse holder (with fuse installed). The Red wire....!!

If you unplug the 4 small wires, you would not have any power to the fuse holder.

One of the "unplugged" wires would have power from the battery....Right....???

The other 3 wires would not have any power.....!!!

The cable from the battery (has a small wire off it) that goes to the fuse holder. I believe there would be power to the fuse holder regardless if the cable was connected to "B" or "M" on the relay.

Does this sound right....??? Keep in mind I don't have a GL1100 wiring schematic and might be wrong....!!!

Let me know if I am out in left field.......!!
 

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Mike, Regarding the 4 small wires....

Two of them are to activate (trigger) the relay. (No power unless you press the starter switch)

One of them is (input power) to the fuse holder. (Always power from the battery)

One of them is (output power) from the fuse holder (with fuse installed). The Red wire....!!

If you unplug the 4 small wires, you would not have any power to the fuse holder.

One of the "unplugged" wires would have power from the battery....Right....???

The other 3 wires would not have any power.....!!!

The cable from the battery (has a small wire off it) that goes to the fuse holder. I believe there would be power to the fuse holder regardless if the cable was connected to "B" or "M" on the relay.

Does this sound right....??? Keep in mind I don't have a GL1100 wiring schematic and might be wrong....!!!

Let me know if I am out in left field.......!!
Pretty sure power comes from the positive battery cable then goes through the fuse to power both small terminals that are closest to the fuse. Like the diagram below. I added the red line. :oops:

Screenshot (58)_LI.jpg
 

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Pretty sure power comes from the positive battery cable then goes through the fuse to power both small terminals that are closest to the fuse. Like the diagram below. I added the red line. :oops:

View attachment 323848
Better than pretty sure, it is correct unless someone bypassed the main fuse.
 

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Pretty sure power comes from the positive battery cable then goes through the fuse to power both small terminals that are closest to the fuse. Like the diagram below. I added the red line. :oops:

View attachment 323848

Mike, read my post again. Your diagram verifies what I posted as correct....!!

But I don't need to be right...........Ok with me......!!!
 

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Mike, Regarding the 4 small wires....

Two of them are to activate (trigger) the relay. (No power unless you press the starter switch)

One of them is (input power) to the fuse holder. (Always power from the battery)

One of them is (output power) from the fuse holder (with fuse installed). The Red wire....!!

If you unplug the 4 small wires, you would not have any power to the fuse holder.

One of the "unplugged" wires would have power from the battery....Right....???

The other 3 wires would not have any power.....!!!

The cable from the battery (has a small wire off it) that goes to the fuse holder. I believe there would be power to the fuse holder regardless if the cable was connected to "B" or "M" on the relay.

Does this sound right....??? Keep in mind I don't have a GL1100 wiring schematic and might be wrong....!!!

Let me know if I am out in left field.......!!
It seems someone might have retrofit a solenoid on the bike. Hard to figure out when he does not answer. Hopefully he is out riding.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks to everyone for their responses. There are definitely some suggestions I will follow up on. I have been checking some things with a test light and now I am more confused than ever. Here is what's been going on the last couple of days. I was beginning to think there was a poor connection somewhere so I started checking all the connectors on the bike. They all seem to be good but somewhere during this fiddling the dash lights came on and amazingly the bike started without hesitation with the starter button. It idled nicely too. I shut it off and was replacing some bulbs in the dash and everything went dead again. Using a test light I seem to have power everywhere. The main fuse, the starter button, the coils, the sockets in the dash. I have continuity in the cable from the battery to the starter but I'm still in a no start no power situation. I still think this may be a connection issue but I'm at a loss on what I should do next. I must admit I'm pretty ignorant about electrical issues so any thoughts would be appreciated.
 

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One problem more common than others was the big connector block at the ignition switch and/or the switch itself
 

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One thing you might check is the ground wire on the front coil bolt. They will usually start when that is bad but yours might be the exception. Other than that wiggle, wiggle, wiggle until you find it.
 
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