[col_freecycle]

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Thanks to evryone for the help with getting my bike through the "seafoam in the carburetors" problem. It now starts right up. On to the next issue. Once started the bike will eventually idle at a stop at ~1000 - 1200 with the choke not engaged. Once I am riding if I come to stop or slow down to a near stop the bike will stall - unless I engage the choke 1/3 to 1/2. With the choke engaged it will idle - although sometimes at very high revs (~3000) until I adjust the choke. If I use the throttle at all at a stop with the choke engaged the engine will race at those same high revs. Once I am moving the bike runs withiut stalling. I've been trying to research this on this site and wonder if it is vacuum lines? I'd appreciate any thoughts or suggestions on what to check and how to check it. Also, can anyone suggest a good GL1100 mechanics manual? Thanks for the help.

 

[Hatchetman]

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A good manual is downloadable right here off our main page. on the forum faq section. What I think is your biggest issue would be 3 things. #1 your carbs are not sinced.
#2 your slow speed jets are still plugged enough to cause low end stalling.
#3 your float levels might be low.
To get your bike running great, I suggest pulling the carbs, getting the "Randakk" c.d & re doing them. This gets them clean, the floats can be adjusted which is critical & gives you a good look at all the vacuum lines, "O: rings etc.
Others will drop their idea's here soon!
Keep us posted!!!
Wayne

 

[FitzAl]

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Several factors can make a gl1100 not idle, the easiest job is syncing them first and it doesn't require stripping the carbs to do, and it may make a difference.

 

[Dubswing]

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As a last resort, you can buy a single carb manifold and carburetor from ldwingnut for less than $500.00 and have a great running and wonderfully reliable bike. No carb syncing issues, rebuild kit for the VW carb is less than $20.00 if you ever need it and parts availability anywhere. I installed one on my 1100 and couldn't have been more pleased. Just remove the stock carbs (hardest part of the job) install the new manifold and carb in less than 30 minutes with no modifications to the bike and off you go. As I said, this is something to consider if you can't get your OEM setup running correctly or do not want to spend the money to rebuild your carbs.

Bernie

 

[Hatchetman]

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Now, that makes the most sense to me!!!Dubswing wrote:

As a last resort, you can buy a single carb manifold and carburetor from ldwingnut for less than $500.00 and have a great running and wonderfully reliable bike. No carb syncing issues, rebuild kit for the VW carb is less than $20.00 if you ever need it and parts availability anywhere. I installed one on my 1100 and couldn't have been more pleased. Just remove the stock carbs (hardest part of the job) install the new manifold and carb in less than 30 minutes with no modifications to the bike and off you go. As I said, this is something to consider if you can't get your OEM setup running correctly or do not want to spend the money to rebuild your carbs.

Bernie

 

[Bike...and Dennis]

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Could the idlemixture screwsbe turned in too far, causing a lean condition the choke is making up for?

 

[fgh]

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Have you tried using the idle adjustment screw? You can see it from the right side just behind the carb linkage.

 

[Mike81Gl1100]

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I to have the same issue with my 81 GL1100, Carbs have been cleaned but it just idles at around 600 or so, and when i choke it it works but if i use the idle screwe it seems to make no difference.