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i recently purchased an 81 gl1100 its a great looking bike and i love it BUT,im having a bit of trouble shifting from first to second its real stiff and if the bike isnt moving almost impossible to get it out of gear or find neutral if anyone knows anything about this please help thanks a million!
 

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What happens when you go (or try to go) from neutral into 1st or 2nd?

It could just be the clutch needs adjusting.
 

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if its in first and im sitting still it wont get out of gear when i start rolling itll let me shift, shifting on the road is fine its when im stopped and try yo shift when i have trouble
 

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speedracer wrote:
if its in first and im sitting still it wont get out of gear when i start rolling itll let me shift, shifting on the road is fine its when im stopped and try yo shift when i have trouble
speedracer, try stopping the engine, then shifting (you might need to roll the bike back & forth a little while shifting),, If that helps then you probably need clutch work (like an adjustment) as the clutch probably isn't releasing all the way. Remember there are 2 places to adjust that clutch.

Twisty
 

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when the bike is off you can shift it fine,do you know where the adjustments are?
 

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speedracer wrote:
when the bike is off you can shift it fine,do you know where the adjustments are?
Speedracer, there should be a coarse adjustercover on the rear of the engine clutch housing. If that internal adjuster isn't set correctly you might not get total clutch release even if the cable is set correctly due to that internal actuator not traveling (stroking) far enough. I haven't personally ever set that coarse adjuster on the 1100 but did do a 1000 & that internal adjuster really helped the clutch operation.

I'm not sure if the 1000 & 1100 are exactly the same but probably shouldn't be too different.

This came from Randakk's site thought you might like a look at it.

1000 clutch adjust-


Remove the small access cover at the rear of the engine. Use a 10 mm socket on a ¼" racket. This is the semi-impossible part of the job. Now loosen the clutch actuator lock-nut and run the adjuster all the way in until you feel slight resistance (using a small screw-driver). Back the adjuster out ¾ turns and tighten the locknut. Replace the access cover and the worst is over!
Rotate the lower cable adjustment barrel (counter-clockwise from above) until you have about 5/8" play at the end of the handlebar lever. Now tighten the lower lock-nut.
Final free-play adjustment is made at the handlebar lever. Set this according to preference, but it should be in the neighborhood of ¼" to make sure you get full disengagement of the clutch. These should be at least SOME free-play or you run the risk of damage to the clutch.


Twisty
 

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Try giving her a little rev as you search for neutral. It's the nature of the beast. Just a wee bit of upward pressure on the shifter as you give the throttle a little twist, and it will pop into neutral. If it shifts fine otherwise, as you say when you're rolling, don't muck with your clutch

Kyle

Each individual has its own little quirks.
 

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You don't by chance have a toe/heel shifter dou you? I had the same issue, and took off the rubber pad on the original shift arm. The rubber caused the toe/heel shift fork to bind. There is a lot of play in the shift but you will get used to it.
 

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thanks guys for yalls input ill take a look at it after work today and let yall know what i find thanks again!!
 
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