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I replaced my stator in 05 when I got this bike. At the end of 2010 riding season I was having trouble starting the bike sometimes. I bought a new battery and kept it on a battery minder all winter 2010/2011.

My volt meter was giving me readings that the charging system was not working sometimes. It always reads below 12v at idle and sometimes it shows below 12v while riding, but then next time it would be reading 14v.

Is my stator going out? The only reason I changed it before is I had the engine out and did it as a preventive measure.

Is 5 yrs 20,000 mi all you can expect to get out of stator life?
 

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You need to test the output of the system. If you have a digital gauge check voltage at the battery with the engine at or near 3k. You should be getting more than 13 but not more than 16 volts.
 

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As Ohara said, and if everything checks out, check the yellow wires to see if they have had all the connectors cut out and soldered direct from the Stator to the regulator. Sounds like a lose connection on one or more of the yellow wires.
 

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jobe05 wrote:
As Ohara said, and if everything checks out, check the yellow wires to see if they have had all the connectors cut out and soldered direct from the Stator to the regulator. Sounds like a lose connection on one or more of the yellow wires.
They were soldered when new stator was put in
 

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Check the Stator by reading the voltage on each yellow wire. Here are directions as posted on this forum by someone else.

1- First, put the bike on the center stand. Cut the wires on both sides of the stator connector plug. Strip the insulation aprox. 1/2"-1" back on all three yellow wires. Label each wire A, B, and C.

2- With a multimeter, digital or analog, set to read resistance, check each leg to ground for short's. If no short's are found, (o resistance), you're good to go so far.

3- With the meter set to read resistance, check across each leg. A to B, B to C, then C to A. The reading's should be about 3 ohm's. If you read infinite resistance across any of the legs you have an open winding and the stator is bad. If they read good, keep going.

4- A helper is good to have for this next step. With the battery fully charged and the three yellow wire's separated so they cannot make contact, crank the bike. Have your helper rev the bike to 3000rpm after the bike warms up.

IMPORTANT!!!

You are checking for AC voltage NOT DC voltage!! Make sure the meter is set to read a minimum of 120vac!!

With the bike at 3000rpm, check leg A to B. Note the voltage.

Then check leg B to C. Note the voltage.

Finally check leg C to A. Note the voltage.

Compare the three readings. They should be between 50-70vac plus or minus about 5vac per leg. If they read good, chances are you've got a bad regulator or a bad/burnt regulator connector.
 

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There is also the connector on the starter relay. If the red/white wire there is not making good contact it will cause a charging problem.
 

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oharaLTD wrote:
You need to test the output of the system. If you have a digital gauge check voltage at the battery with the engine at or near 3k. You should be getting more than 13 but not more than 16 volts.
Thanks for the reply
I checked with a digital Volt meter and I am getting 12volts DC at idle with a charged battery.

At 3000rpm it still reads 12VDC
 

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jobe05 wrote:
Check the Stator by reading the voltage on each yellow wire. Here are directions as posted on this forum by someone else.

1- First, put the bike on the center stand. Cut the wires on both sides of the stator connector plug. Strip the insulation aprox. 1/2"-1" back on all three yellow wires. Label each wire A, B, and C.

2- With a multimeter, digital or analog, set to read resistance, check each leg to ground for short's. If no short's are found, (o resistance), you're good to go so far.

3- With the meter set to read resistance, check across each leg. A to B, B to C, then C to A. The reading's should be about 3 ohm's. If you read infinite resistance across any of the legs you have an open winding and the stator is bad. If they read good, keep going.

4- A helper is good to have for this next step. With the battery fully charged and the three yellow wire's separated so they cannot make contact, crank the bike. Have your helper rev the bike to 3000rpm after the bike warms up.

IMPORTANT!!!

You are checking for AC voltage NOT DC voltage!! Make sure the meter is set to read a minimum of 120vac!!

With the bike at 3000rpm, check leg A to B. Note the voltage.

Then check leg B to C. Note the voltage.

Finally check leg C to A. Note the voltage.

Compare the three readings. They should be between 50-70vac plus or minus about 5vac per leg. If they read good, chances are you've got a bad regulator or a bad/burnt regulator connector.
OK I haveO Ohm resistence between each leg to ground

I have 2 Ohm resistence between the tree yellow wires as described in point 2

I am reading 16.5 vac ,19.9vac, and16.8 vac at 3000rpm



So does this mean my stator is shot?
 

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DaveO430 wrote:
There is also the connector on the starter relay. If the red/white wire there is not making good contact it will cause a charging problem.
Where is the starter relay located?
 

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Rex, 0 ohms from each yellow leg to ground is bad, that means the AC is grounded and that system is a non grounded system. It is a Y configuration and the windings are in that shape, a Y with each leg joined in the mid section of the Y.

If the system was grounded it would be at the centre of the Y and each leg, the opposite of each coil would be the generated voltage.

Test again from ground to each leg you should get infinity or some number on a digital higher than 20 meg ohms.

If you do have a grounded leg or 2 or 3 are they the same, ie, ground to #A, and then #B and then #C. If they are the same likely the alternator itself is grounde but with lowest ohms reading if they vary, look elsewhere.

The yellow wires are a 3 phase Y as compared to a 3 phase delta and the mid splice section IS NOT GROUNDED.

Your voltage readings must be equal at any given RPM, so you must use the same revs for all readings. A to B, B to C A to C, no difference, the RPM is critical, so is the drive to driven system of the alternator.

With readings around 12 VDC your stator may be good but:
field is sloppy, dirty, loose drive/driven connection

A bad regulator, lousy pick up wire, failing diode in the rectifier pack, dirty plug connection for R&R or a failing SCR in the regulator can cause all these problems. But first and foremost is checking the AC side, the yellow wires to each other and to ground and they are not normally grounded, but may be as they travel from outside the alternator to inside.
 
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