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new member needs help.1982 gl 1100.fuel crossover tubes leaking bad.remove carbs separate intake and carbs .dissasemble carbs and clean. install new oring kits per each carb and reinstall original accelerater pump and air cutoff valve diaphrams.reassemble and install carbs;fresh fuel;start and run engine;no leaks;number 3 not hitting;number 1 hits weak;check plugs;firing good;run compression test;1and 2 are at 95to 100 psi;3 is at 75 to 80;4is at 25 psi;but 2 and 4 hit strong;going to run valves;checked fuel in number 3 bowl;has plenty;my question is could acc pump and or cutoff valve diaphrams be bad causing poor vacum to 1 and no vacum at 3 causing no fuel to be drawn into cylinders. friends bike trying to get him on the road. anyone have any thoughts as to this problem.eng runs quiet with choke off. rlm61
 

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Wow a lot of questions jammed in there. Are you sure on those compression readings? 25psi seems awful low and it's a surprise it ever ran properly before you got the gas leak.
 

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Welcome, RLM you'll definitely find some help here!

Has the bike been sitting or did this problem "suddenly" appear? Did you do a complete dip and rebuild of the carbs or just replace the o-rings?

These carbs are picky, my 1100 was sitting for a year and it took me three tries to get all of the goop out!

J-
 

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rlm here;bike has been sitting for quite some time;last i heard it run it ran like it had a miss;did not soak carbs;used gumout spray and blowgun to clean and all passages were clean;also drained fuel tank and started with fresh fuel and filter.ran valves and 4 jumped to 105 psi;3 still at 75;needto run valves again;a little noisey rlm
 

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Hi RLM and welcome to the forum from Texas. Those compression readings are very strange. Was the engine warmed up? Did you hold the throttle wide open for the duration of the test?

The accelerator pump and air cut off valves won't cause the problems as described but they should have been replaced. They are probably perforated and non functional.

No vacuum on #3 may indicate that the butterfly is completely closed. As #3 is the base carburetor, the only way to adjust the butterfly open is with the idle adjustment screw (remember the idle screw will open all four of them by the same amount), then you will need to sync the other three to it. This may be better done on the bench with a 1/8" drill as the gauge. Then you can adjust the idle after you get it started and warmed up.
 

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Personally, I'd pull the carbs and do a FULL dip, clean, and inspection just so I knew the baseline. Then, as Jack suggests, bench sync all four.

Compression readings are still odd. Are they wet or dry? Hot or cold? If you dump some ATF in #3 does the compression go up? = rings.

Just going through my own mental checklist...
 

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This my first time responding to a post, I couldn't just stand by and let you waste your time trying to correct your problemworking on the carburetors.I am a master automobile tech (been one over 30 years),you need tostart with the basics first. If your compression isasyou stated,that needs to bediagnosed and corrected before making anycarburetor adjustments.

You may still havecarburetor problems, but you willnever get it to run correctly with your compression where it's at.
 

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rlm back;thanks for all your help;gives me more to look for;eng was cold and throttle was closed;buddy trying to save money is why no diaphrams were bought;already spent 250 and still not running properly;did notice when carbs off 2and4 butterflys moved before 1and3;also need to learn bench sync;once again thanks for all your help; rlm
 

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Hi RLM, you will need to recheck the compression. If it will run, warm up the engine, then hold the throttle wide open during the test. That will tell us what the compression actually is and we can move on from there.

What did he get for $250? Keep us informed on what has been done and the outcome. It can be made to run great but it will take some time and $$.
 

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You should have checked the diaphragms when the carbs were off. Definately check the diaphragms for rips and holes. I had rips in mine, but she idled like a dream, just no power. You can use a rubber glue to temporarily fix ripped diaphragms. It won't last long, but it will at least help you eliminate the diaphragms as a source of the problem.
 

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rlm back again;reran valves;someone aparently been in carbs and valves before;reset valves cold;run eng to operating temp;pulled all plugs;1 and 3 at 80 to 85;2 and 4 at 95 to 100 with throttle in close position; money spent on 4 oring kits;coolant cross over tube orings and gaskets as were leaking;coolant and carb cleaner;gas money;runs much better but 1 hits weak and 3 real weak; wonder if carbs need sync;used old pilot screws with new orings and backed out 1 and a half turn; 1 screw missing washer;found 1 misc parts rlm out; thanks
 

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hello jackjohn;rlm back.new to computer so trying to get used to it.information helped a lot,thanks. you mentioned bench sync with 1/8 drill bit. coulld you explain on how to. noticed a lot of information on site.just trying to learn computerli thanks,rlm61
 

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rlm here;valves are right;ran compression warm and throttle open and readings on comp are all at 160 to 165. now carbs need sync and dont have gauges and dont know about bench sync rlm61
 

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