1982 goldwing clutch removal tools

imported post

Funny enough but I just pulled this exact nut on my bud's '83 GL1100 this morning.

I too made a tool from a old socket and using a dremel to cut the four notches.

Getting the tool to fit the lock nut just right took me about 2hrs, let me pass the dimensions of the nut onto you so you can do it in much less time.

Center Lock nut to remove clutch center:
Outer diameter: 1.255"
Inner dia: 0.750"

Notch dims (there are 4 notches):
width: 0.241"
depth: 0.100"

Notches make a perfect "+"

Tips:
There may be a special tabbed washer behind your locknut (not shown in any manuals I have, including factory). One of these tabs is bent into a notch, to prevent nut from coming off. I had to sharpen a flat screw driver and remove the rear wheel to get a hammer on it in order to bend the tab up so the nut can be removed.

As far as locking the clutch goes in order to prevent rotation when removing nut, you don't need a special tool. Use the Haynes method:
1) After pulling lifter plate and springs, put two springs and the 2 long bolts back with some washers to take place of pressure plate. Tighten the bolts down, this will lock the clutch mechanisim together
2) put the bike in first gear (not mentioned in Haynes)
3) Remove the alternator inspection nut and put a 12mm socket and breaker bar on the exposed nut. This can be used to counter the rotation of engine when removing the clutch lock nut.

Worked like a charm for me.

Good luck.

imported post

This was a long time ago, but.... I made a tool to remove the clutch nut. I bought a socket of the appropriate size and I cut notches in it with a dremel tool with a cutoff blade. It took a little while to make but it worked fine. I could try to figure out how to send you a picture of it if you're interested (assuming I can find it.)



I got the clutch plates and heavy duty springs from J.C. Whitney. That was the best price at the time. It has worked fine for me for quite a few miles now.



Hope that helps,



Jim