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Discussion Starter #1
Thats my question, I have restored a few bikes but never seen one this bad so far, I am dreading taking the heads off as was hoping the engine would not really have needed touching, looks like it is now a full strip down....Come on give me some much needed hope, tell me I am not flogging a dead horse...
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02 GL1800 w/Auto Pilot
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that looks like it sat in a horse tank for 20 years

I am going to offer a suggestion, it came from Louisiana and was in the flood waters for many weeks
 

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Yes I have. It has had a lot of water in it not doubt. I bought 1 that had been sitting outside for a long time with the carbs removed. The intakes had been covered with duct tape but it was long rotted away. Intakes full to the top with water. I put it in gear and rocked it a few times and it broke loose and I actually got it running without pulling the heads off.
 
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IF,
you have a big enough tub, dunk it in water, and use Electrolysis to clean it up.
you would be amazed at the difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I don't know what a horse tank is but I agree with you! No I am from England and it was sat in a rotten shed in Scotland for years, in reality it may as well have just been sat outside!! Fortunately I do work in an engineering environment so the carbs will be going into a nice solvent jet bath at 65DegC and multiple ultrasonic cleans also! I need to take the heads off and replace the valves as a minimum. The engine is not seized and it turns over, I will wait and see what condition the pistons are in and the bores.
 

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I've got an 82 motor and frame been sitting in my backyard for 2 years waiting for someone to pick it up for free, and it don't look anywhere as bad as yours.
 

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1993 GL1500 Aspy 1980 GL1100 STD
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It does look like it was submerged in water for a while.

Did you pull the drain plug to see what comes out of the crankcase?

If it turns over, I'd drain and refill the crankcase with as much diesel fuel as you can get into the engine (all the way up to the cap!), diesel will serve as a good cleaner/rinse and does have a little bit of lubrication to it. Add goodly dose of automatic transmission fluid into the sparkplug holes. For the intakes, I'd just spray some rust dissolver into the intake ports and soak the valve stems, follow that with some spray lube. Then just turn the over-filled engine over (no spark plugs) with the starter to circulate the diesel fuel around and start to lube/clean things up inside. But before turning this engine over much more than a quick test put some new timing belts on it!

After a good amount of swirling, drain the diesel and replace with 4 qts of ATF and fresh oil filter. This is decent lube and also a very good cleaner.

I wouldn't expect to see any kind of good compression readings until after this engine has run for a while. Might not be any compression at all on some cylinders until the crud is knocked off the valve seats and the valves move freely.

The carbs should clean up, at minimum good enough to get the engine to try to start and run badly. Might need to find another set of carbs to get it to run right, but let's just see if we can get it to fire and run at all, first. Squirting an eye-dropper worth of fuel in each sparkplug hole before screwing the plugs back in might help fire this thing up!

Once it's running badly, but running, I'd run it with the ATF in the crankcase, see if you can get an hour's time running it on the stand. After that drain the ATF, replace with cheap oil and a fresh filter.

All this might sound optimistic, but then, after all, it IS a Goldwing, and stranger things HAVE happened.... 😁
 

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Discussion Starter #11
It does look like it was submerged in water for a while.

Did you pull the drain plug to see what comes out of the crankcase?

If it turns over, I'd drain and refill the crankcase with as much diesel fuel as you can get into the engine (all the way up to the cap!), diesel will serve as a good cleaner/rinse and does have a little bit of lubrication to it. Add goodly dose of automatic transmission fluid into the sparkplug holes. For the intakes, I'd just spray some rust dissolver into the intake ports and soak the valve stems, follow that with some spray lube. Then just turn the over-filled engine over (no spark plugs) with the starter to circulate the diesel fuel around and start to lube/clean things up inside. But before turning this engine over much more than a quick test put some new timing belts on it!

After a good amount of swirling, drain the diesel and replace with 4 qts of ATF and fresh oil filter. This is decent lube and also a very good cleaner.

I wouldn't expect to see any kind of good compression readings until after this engine has run for a while. Might not be any compression at all on some cylinders until the crud is knocked off the valve seats and the valves move freely.

The carbs should clean up, at minimum good enough to get the engine to try to start and run badly. Might need to find another set of carbs to get it to run right, but let's just see if we can get it to fire and run at all, first. Squirting an eye-dropper worth of fuel in each sparkplug hole before screwing the plugs back in might help fire this thing up!

Once it's running badly, but running, I'd run it with the ATF in the crankcase, see if you can get an hour's time running it on the stand. After that drain the ATF, replace with cheap oil and a fresh filter.

All this might sound optimistic, but then, after all, it IS a Goldwing, and stranger things HAVE happened.... 😁
Great advice, thanks for this. As you can see from the photo I have started the strip down today and I drained the oil, I was pleased it was oil and not full of water so once I get to the stage of engine cleaned externally and I have removed the cylinder heads I will check the bores for wear/rust then reassemble and follow your advice on filling with diesel/ATF and see if it flushes any residual crap out of it. I can't beleive how things were just falling apartin my hands today as I stripped it, I had too laugh as I was removing the exhausts and then noticed one was rusted completely in half!!

Any way wheels are off, headstock and forks removed and front end stripped. Rear torque bar and brakes removed and once I have walked my dog I shall go back in garage and complete the strip down until just engine left on the jack. Wish me luck....
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Don't order new valves yet. They may need to be removed and polished, but not necessarily replaced. Rings are probably seized, as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Calipers are not to bad and already stripped and cleaned up, a full new seal kit on way. Radiator I will probably get a new one and the gas tank I shall have a clean up first of all. www.davidsilverspares.co.uk has most new replacement parts and I did not struggle for them last year when I did a 1980 bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Well I have fully stripped the bike today and the timing marks got me concerned I may need to go internal to the engine...rust all over marks but possibly as that part been out of the oil for the 12 years the bike was off the road.
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Fill it with diesel all the way to the cap. 😁
 

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Our ‘56 Chevy sat in dry storage for close to 40 years. The motor was not stuck, but it had only 55-60 lbs. compression on all the cylinders. We knew that when it was bought, it ran and was driven 40 miles to the barn it was stored in, so I figured rings were just stuck. I filled each cylinder with a 50/50 mixture of acetone and old transmission fluid, and let that soak overnight with the plugs screwed in hand tight. The next day I pulled the plugs and turned the engine over to blow out what was left of the mixture. I put 2 oz. of oil in each cylinder and put the plugs back in. It then had 80+ lbs of compression, and started up. The engine had a lot of sludge build up on the heads. A mechanic friend who for years has been dealing with cars that had a lot of sludge built up, told me to drain the old oil, and to replace it with full Synthetic diesel oil. Drive it a couple thousand miles then drain and refill again with the same oil. After 2-3 cycles of doing this, the engine will come clean.
 
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