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Hey Guys and Gals:

Hoping for some help. I've been slowly fixing my '83 GL1100I. I rebuilt the front caliper last week and then couldn't get the brakes to bleed, even with the Mity-Vac. I realized that the piston in the front master cylinder was sticking and not releasing all the way. I received the parts today and rebuilt it. The piston travels smoothly now, but same thing, no fluid movement. I've even left the banjo bolt off and tried to pump the lever and see if any fluid comes out from the master cylinder, with no luck whatsoever. Any ideas? Thanks.

MM
 

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Maybe one of the holes is plugged still? If there is fluid in the reservoir and you pull the handle in, it should force fluid out, so does fluid get into the piston at all?
 

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That's exactly the tutorial I used. I'll have to check the brake line itself and see if it's plugged. Otherwise, I can't figure it out. I reassembled evrything again and still the same results. Both holes are clear as far as I can tell. I removed the banjo bolt and it was bone dry. So I'm guess the fluid is not getting to it and into the brake line itself. I'll check the line itself now.
 

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Brake line is fine. I tried to pump fluid from the master cylinder with the brake line off again and no luck. Crap!:sadguy:
 

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Try this and it may work:

Make sure the reservoir is full. Remove the banjo bolt at the wheel cylinder end. Put your thumb and finger over the end of the banjo bolt end and with light pressure pump the lever and hold it. Squeeze tighter and let up on the lever. Lighten on the finger and pump again.

Your finger and thumb act as a one-way valve on the bolt. When you pump the brake lever with a massive amount of air in it, you'll never build up any pressure.
 

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The one thing that helped me with this problem was to make sure the bleed valve at the slave cylinder is open enough, 1/2 turn or more when you pull the clutch lever. It only took me about 50+ times of loosening it, pulling lever, and releasing the valve. I just wasn't opening it enough.
 

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Did Silicon Sams idea work? When I had mine off last month I also put my finger over the hole when I pumped (and got a face full of brake fluid). Make sure you cover everything good and put a rag over the MC while you pump.

I don't think the 1100s have a slave cylinder.
 

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Hey Medic Mike,



I know that this is going to sound silly.



AND I mean this respectfully...



BUT, did you put the plunger seal on with the proper orientation?



When your installed the MC kit, you should have gotten a new plunger seal that goes on the new plunger. I have highlighted them in the picture in yellow. They are a bugger to put on. When I did mine I was terrified that I was going to rip mine trying to it on the plunger.



The plunger seal itself acts as a one way valve. The open face of it should be pointed toward the banjo joint if I remember correctly. That way, when the plunger is moved by the handle toward the banjo joint, the pressure of the brake fluid expands the seal against the inside wall of the cylinder making a seal. The more pressure the stronger the seal.



When you release the brake handle, the pressure is off and the spring returns it.



Just something to check. It is a VERY basic operation with this little hand pump. Not a lot can go wrong.



Tim.
 

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Silicon Sam wrote:
Try this and it may work:

Make sure the reservoir is full. Remove the banjo bolt at the wheel cylinder end. Put your thumb and finger over the end of the banjo bolt end and with light pressure pump the lever and hold it. Squeeze tighter and let up on the lever. Lighten on the finger and pump again.

Your finger and thumb act as a one-way valve on the bolt. When you pump the brake lever with a massive amount of air in it, you'll never build up any pressure.
Thanks Sam, I'll try this idea tonight when I get home. I hope it works. It's so frustrating.
 

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Mr Magic Fingers wrote:
Hey Medic Mike,



I know that this is going to sound silly.



AND I mean this respectfully...



BUT, did you put the plunger seal on with the proper orientation?



When your installed the MC kit, you should have gotten a new plunger seal that goes on the new plunger. I have highlighted them in the picture in yellow. They are a bugger to put on. When I did mine I was terrified that I was going to rip mine trying to it on the plunger.



The plunger seal itself acts as a one way valve. The open face of it should be pointed toward the banjo joint if I remember correctly. That way, when the plunger is moved by the handle toward the banjo joint, the pressure of the brake fluid expands the seal against the inside wall of the cylinder making a seal. The more pressure the stronger the seal.



When you release the brake handle, the pressure is off and the spring returns it.



Just something to check. It is a VERY basic operation with this little hand pump. Not a lot can go wrong.



Tim.
Thanks Tim. I did make sure it was correct. I checked the old one when I removed it. I did try it in the other direction and it just made the piston stick. I switched it back around and will try Silicon Sam's idea tonight. It's just seems strange that I can't get any fluid movement even with the banjo bolt off of the master cylinder. The master cylinder part assembly kinda defies logis with the inner seal on the spring, that looks like itblocks the fluid's movement.
 

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When you try to bleed a dry system, the plunger will push out air, but the return stroke will just suck what air that was pushed out, right back into the line.
 

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Thanks for the idea. I was wondering if it would be easier to submerge the wheel cylinder end of the brake line in a small container of brake fluid. This would basically create an airlock and would lessen the chance of me screwing it up.
 

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But you'll still have that big air pocket in the middle that will just go back and forth. You need to replace that big air pocket with a compressible liquid, like brake fluid.

It's like installing an oil pump. It has to be primed with grease, or when it starts pumping it'll just start pumping air and will never suck oil until some damage is done. Same with a scavenge water trash pump.
 

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Silicon Sam wrote:
But you'll still have that big air pocket in the middle that will just go back and forth. You need to replace that big air pocket with a compressible liquid, like brake fluid.

It's like installing an oil pump. It has to be primed with grease, or when it starts pumping it'll just start pumping air and will never suck oil until some damage is done. Same with a scavenge water trash pump.
Gotcha. I think I could grab a syringe from work (nice to be a Paramedic) and use it to fill the brake line with brake fluid. This will force the air our and make it easier to finish.
 

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Bike...and Dennis wrote:
Don't take this the wrong way, but, are you working on the correct brake caliper?
Yes sir I am. I made that mistake when I first bought it and was trying to bleed the right caliper with the handlebar lever.
 

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Silicon Sam wrote:
When you try to bleed a dry system, the plunger will push out air, but the return stroke will just suck what air that was pushed out, right back into the line.
So I tried my fingers over the end idea. It took the better part of an hour but it worked.... almost. I still can't a constatnt stream of brake fluid. I get to a certain point and then I can't keep the fluid moving enough to put in the banjo bolt. Help! I'm so frustrated. This is usually a simple process.
 

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Tell you what, I don't know what the deal is with the factory brake line, but they designed it so bleeding is a near impossibility.

I finally had enough and bought a braided hose just for the front to see if they were worth anything.

It took all of a minute to bleed! I was shocked. No air pockets.

It fixed my front brake problems. I grab the lever, the front end dives pretty hard now. Highly recommended if you're having problems.

The member 'lopeha' can hook you up. Very reasonable price too.
 

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Mike, if you didn't get the tiny little hole in the master cylinder cleaned out it will be almost impossible to bleed the brakes. It is the hole in the bottom that looks like a blind hole but it has a tiny hole in the bottom of it. The only thing I have found small enough and stiff enough to go through it is a bristle out of a wire brush. Also if you did get them bled and that hole is plugged the brakes will lock up when they get hot.
 

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DaveO430 wrote:
Mike, if you didn't get the tiny little hole in the master cylinder cleaned out it will be almost impossible to bleed the brakes. It is the hole in the bottom that looks like a blind hole but it has a tiny hole in the bottom of it. The only thing I have found small enough and stiff enough to go through it is a bristle out of a wire brush. Also if you did get them bled and that hole is plugged the brakes will lock up when they get hot.
Thanks for that tip Dave. I've tried several times to make sure that hole is open, but I don't know for sure. I know the front caliper has been bound up before, so I'm gonna guess no.



So, does anyone know where to buy a replacement front master cylinder housing?
 
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