[Archameleous]

imported post

Hi all,

I have a 1983 GL1100I without any fairings and the front forks(springs) have a lot of travel in them. This has been confirmed by an accessory shop who tells me I need new springs and it can be done from the top of the forks.

I have searched all over and looked through the Clymer manual for my bike and I can't find any mention about how the springs can be changed from the top. The new springs are on order and I hope to be trying to change them over the next few days if I can find out the procedure.

Can anyone point me in the right direction or give me a link I may have missed?

I have a nasty feeling that if I try to take the large nuts off the forks without some guidance I may get myself into something I might regret.

Thanking you all in advance.

Roger

 

[newday777]

imported post

Here is progressive's instructions

http://www.progressivesuspension.com/pdfs/forkSprings/3055.pdf

You will need a M/C jack and strap the bike to the jack, to hold the bike up, and as pushing the cap back on and turning it in can be a bugger, but very do able, with much patience and persistence.

Here is a tool to help with the cap problem but requires removal of the fork tubes.

http://goldwingtech.info/exavid/forktool.html

 

[newday777]

imported post

You might want to check the bushings and replace the seals while doing your spring change out, especially if they have not been done recently. I replaced my bushing at 36,000 miles as the copper was showing through the gray surface.

 

[GLGREZMONKI]

imported post

Yes you can change the springs from the top. Jack the bike up so that the weight is off of the front ( wheel hanging) Unscrew the fork caps carefully as they are under spring pressure. Remove the old spring and replace with new. You might as well change the oil while you are at it. Remove the drain plug on the bottom. After draining replace the drian plug ( dont forget the sealing washer) and refill with the appropriate amount and weight of fork oil. The hardest part of the job is pushing the springs back down and restarting the threaded cap. Some members have made various tools to assist in pushing the springs down . The method I use is to straddle the bike and stand up on the pegs. I then use my body weight (ample) to push the springs and caps down. Be carefull not to cross thread the cap. A little trick to help get the cap started is to index it. Before you put the spring in insert the cap and see where it just starts to thread on and mark it. Then when pushing down on the spring and cap you will see where it starts. Like any other job it may seem a little difficult at first but actually it is a relatively easy task......

 

[AZWinger]

imported post

I put new progressive springs in my 83 Aspencade just like GLGREZMONKI described. I wasn't smart enough to mark where the threads start though.

Good idea!

 

[exavid]

imported post

I hope you ordered Progressive springs and not new OEM ones. The Progressive springs are far better and will work well on the bike without any air pressure in the forks.

 

[Mr Magic Fingers]

imported post

Hey Archameleous,



I replaced my front springs with progressives a few years back on my 82 Aspencade.



This article will help you along.



http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/forum1/94223.html



Good Luck and be safe!



Tim.

 

[Archameleous]

imported post

Thanks for all that info. Its all very helpful but I have another problem. I can't find any drain plug for either fork. My bike is fitted with T.R.A.C which I know was a fad in the 1980's and was abandoned by Honda. I have a picture of the bottom of the fork but I don't know how to attach it to this reply. I also have a PDF page taken from an original Owners Manual which I can put on if I can figure out how.

Thanks Guys.

I think I may have got a picture now

 

[GLGREZMONKI]

imported post

Rear of the trac assembly below the caliper bolt....