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That is the bike in my avatar pic.

Here's a list of the parts I've replaced last summer and this summer:

Front and rear tires, front and rear brakes, seat cover, starter, driver floor boards, passenger floor boards, heel/toe shifter, harley bagger pipes.

This is for the complete bike only, won't part-out.

Also comes with some extra parts: two different sets of highway/crash bars, one with pegs, and the pair of straight pipes it had when I bought it. These are way too loud for me, that's why I put on the bagger pipes. One of the turn-downs was lost off the straight pipes.

I also have a clymer manual that will go with the bike.



This is a great opportunity for an engine mechanicto get a great old bike at a great price. I'm asking $700, which is less than I have in all the extra parts I've bought for the bike in blue above.



I live in Northeast Oklahoma, 74338
 

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The engine knocks when it is lugging, at the low end of the throttle range. It has done that since I owned it. I thought, from other posts, that it was characteristic of the GL1100. This mechanic says I've spun a couple of bearings in the bottom end.

On the top end, I've got 90 psi on three cylinders, and 70 on one on the left side. The mech said I need 100 at least, so says the top end needs rebuilt, also.
 

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Did you test the compression with the throttle wide open? Can't get enough air into the cylinders unless you do that.
 

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I spoke with the mechanic this afternoon, and he stated that he DID NOT perform the compression test with the throttle wide open. I'm not sure what that might mean to you more mechanically-minded folks.

I've had a couple of lookers, but none with cash in hand.

Reminder: this bike starts at a touch of the starter, idles smoothly, and runs at about half power. I paid $1500 for the bike, and have installed over $900 in parts and accessories.

I'm only asking $700 (firm).
 

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It means the cylinders didn't get enough air, and you get false low readings. Should be around 160 to 170. Personally, I think your mechanics evaluation is probably wrong. Does he work on lots of 4 cylinder Goldwings?The GL1100 likes higher RPM's and you can't expect the bike to run baby smooth in all RPM ranges.

Raymond
 

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If the bike starts as easily as you say, I am also suspicious of the mechanic's evaluation.

I'd take it to someone else that knows these bikes. You've got a bunch of $$$ into it, $30 for a compression tester doesn't seem like too much to spend if it can justify a higher asking price.

There is no better indicator of overall engine health than a compression test. Even if the cylinders are uneven, it could be a valve problem, which may be relatively easy to rectify. My Wing was making some horrible sounding bottom end noises until I did a good carb synch.

My $.02
 

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Hey...show some bigger close up pictures of the bike in question.:D
 

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Don't sell that bike.

I would say there is nothing wrong with that motor.



I had a horrible knocking sound from my engine that I was sure was a spun bearing. Turns out it was a bad coil!!!

You've got to much money invested to take a loss on it.

And your mechanic is obviously not good with GoldWings, he may be a good mechanic but he doesn't know GoldWings.

Before you give up on it get yourself a manual fromt he top of the Technical forum, buy a compression tester and set of carb synch gauges.

At the very least you can sell them with the bike if you have to.

Get those carbs synched before you go any further. The symptoms you describe scream out of synch carbs, at least to me. It wouldn't hurt to go over the ignition system too.

Check your plugs for any soot or "wetness" or any buildup. Then take a look at your igniters, they are under the fake tank on the left han side, a 10 mm bolt holds them both in place, pull the bolt and get a look at them if they look like this then chances are you've also got an ignition problem. The potting material should be flush with the edges of the metal housing. Now being in that condition doesn't mean tat the igniters are bad, just that something else created to much resistence in the ignition sytem and they overheated. they either work or they don't since the bike will run they work. You can refill them with high temp silicon found at any auto parts store. They generate a good bt of heat on their own.

If the igniters do look cooked out get a good look at your plug wires and you coils. Check the connections at the plug boots and at the coils. Look the coils overs for any irregualrities in the surface, bulges these may be very slight, cracks if you have cracks you have a abd coil, or stress liines they look like white lines or scratces in he surface of the coil.


By the way if you'ld spun a bearing...let alone a couple, that motor would be locked up in short order. Or at least that's what one very knowledgable prson said to me when I mentioned it.


With any luck there will be a forum member nearby to you who could ride by and take a look at it for you.


Either way I'm beting it is something in either the carbs or the ignition. Neither of which is wrth taking such a loss on the bike.
 

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you might have bad piston rings in your motor thats what mine is doing and a mechanic at cycle world told me thats what was wrong with mine.
 
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