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My 84 Aspencade, which i literally bought two days ago...was riding fine and then today stopped letting me change gears. It also was trying to pull forward even witht he clutch handle in at a stop sign and then finally just wouldnt start and wouldnt change gears while running. I BELIEVE i have a cable problem that is not letting me disengage the clutch...but this is my first bike and im pretty ignorant. I was hoping maybe you all could help me get some ideas of what was wrong and how much it could cost me;....before i paid to have it towed somewhere and told its too much for me.

Also, this bike has around 75,000 miles on it and iwanted to take it on a trip, what all should i have done to it to get it good and steady.:weightlifter:

THANKSSSS if you cna help!!!

Anthony
 

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:waving::waving:Welcome to the Best Goldwing Site on the Internet Anthony!:waving::waving:

It sounds like you have a clutch problem, but not a broken cable, your bike has a hydraulic clutch. Did you see any fluid leak out anywhere? Is there fluid showing in the window on the clutch master cylinder on the left handlebar? It could be just low fluid or air in the system, the 1200s are difficult to bleed, it's often a fight to get the last of the air out. If you got a Clymer manual it has a good section on working on the clutch system. It doesn't sound like you have a serious problem, it shouldn't be very expensive to fix unless something internal broke in the clutch.

BTW are you in Davis, CA?
 

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yessir, i am in davis, ca. I just graduated from UCD and found an 84 aspencade used for 500$ so i grabbed it for my first bike. It was running great for a couple of days. I had some battery problems...the guy before me had been running it down and trickle charging it. The mechanic here fixed a wire which was causing the battery not to charge properyly, but my battery has died again. Either he didnt fix the problem or the old battery just doesnt really charge much from all the constant draining and charging the old owner had done to it.

i Do have the manual, im just know nothing soi guess ill try to bleed the air out of the hose myself. From what i read in the book though it does defiantely look to be pain. I do have fluid in the resevoir. This bike did sit idle for about a year as well.

Have any other suggestions about what i could fix on it? i was planning on taking a small tour in september. I already dropped about 300$ into the bike..and as a poor college kid trying to get on my own feet, i only have about 500$ mroe i can comfortably spare into this bike. I hope the clutch is relatively inexpensive to fix.

thanks guru
 

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As for the battery, if you have a volt meter available connect it across the battery note the voltage, start the bike and note the voltage with the engine running around 3500rpm. Should have over 14V then. If not the problem's in the charging circuit. If the voltage is 14+ the problem is most likely the battery.You can get a good cheap digital volt/ohm/mA meter from Harbor Freight for less than $10 if you have one in your area. Let us know.

Do a search in the box above on clutch bleeding, clutch fluid, etc. There's a lot of info on the subject. The clutch can be a bear to properly bleed but there are a lot of tips there.

BTW you didn't buy that bike you stole it!:cheeky1:
 

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I am trying to find my clutch bleed valve, but its differnent looking i think than from the picture in my book. Porbalby because i have an aspencade. I am getting a little frustrated.
Any help is appreciated.





Anthony
 

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Try this...Mr.1200 wrote:
Sounds like you got air in the system...

Place towels or rags on the top of the bike under the handlebars!!!!

Then:

1) Open the top of the Clutch Master (Two screws) and use some paper towel to soak up what fluid is in there?

2)Refill with DOT4 Fluid (look inside the reservoir for the fill line)

3) pump the lever a few times.

4) then pump the lever,and while holding it tight,open the bonjo bolt at the end of the Master Cly. Then close the bolt,and do this a few time till you see only fluid coming out...This will get the air out of the master!

5)Then you should start to feel pressure in the lever.

6) then you need to bleed the Slave Cly too.It in behind the engine,and you get access to the bleeder valve by removing the Black plastic canister (One bolt) near the left driver foot peg.. Then you'll see the slave Cly and bleeder valve..

7) Pump up the lever and then open the bleeder valve,then close,and repeat,till you see just fluid coming out..

It is best to have a helper working the lever.This way you can open the Banjo bolt while holding a rag over your hand as you open the bolt,this will keep fluid from spraying all over the place....And it make for bleeding the slave easier too.

Note: keep a garden hose turned on handy,in case Brake fluid should get on your paint,Water will neutralize the brake fluid!!
 

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The bleed valve is the same on all 1200's Anthony. It's on the left side of the slave cylinder. It's usually covered in road crud, so you might have to scrape it off first.
 

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Anthony, Welcome.

A bit of advice to the budget conscious rider. Do a search on this site about stator problems on the 1200's. Before you spend money fixing up things on the bike, make sure your stator is not dead. If it is, you will need to acess your situation in terms of money ,time and your ability, Dealers are getting alot of money to replace these stators if you cannot do it yourself. I would hate to see you spend all your money on other things only to be faced with a bigger problem like the stator.
 

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gkiesel wrote:
Anthony, Welcome.

A bit of advice to the budget conscious rider. Do a search on this site about stator problems on the 1200's. Before you spend money fixing up things on the bike, make sure your stator is not dead. If it is, you will need to acess your situation in terms of money ,time and your ability, Dealers are getting alot of money to replace these stators if you cannot do it yourself. I would hate to see you spend all your money on other things only to be faced with a bigger problem like the stator.
That's true. Save the chrome goodies money until you know the stator is sound. Many motorcycle shops just won't work on Goldwings, usually because they don't know anything about them. They quote outrageous prices just to get rid of you when you do ask.
 

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Thank you for the tip on the banjo fitting at the master cylinder. I did the gyrations and contortions under the bike and got nowhere.

A few pumps with the banjo cracked let the air out and I have a clutch again.

A word of warning.

While we know that brake fluid will eat paint, it also loves rubber grips. I was good at wiping off the paint but my hands were coated and therefore the grips got coated.

They get a bit sticky. I washed it down with soapy water and I hope stopped the deteriation, but who knows.
 

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:waving::waving: Welcome to the World's Greatest Goldwing Site bmjudd! :waving::waving:

Glad to hear that you got some benefit from the forum already. I'd think the stickiness of the grips will go away once all the volatiles evaporate from the rubber.
 
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