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First of all, since I am new here, I would like to say hello to all on this forum! I am very happy to have found this board!:cheeky1:

OK, I bought a 1984 Aspencade with 33k miles from a person who had it in the garage for quite some time. I have the tank out (almost a full tank of very bad gas) and getting it flushed and treated chemically for the rust inside. I noticed that the LCD fuel gauge is not registering at all. But when I initially turn the ignition key on, the bulb checkilluminates all of the fuel gauge's bars, then they go off. I removed the float from the tank and reconnected it, moving it to see if the gauge worked. Nothing. I used a DVOM to check the float. It did change the ohms but it was all over the map. I checkedthe positive side of the wires going to the float and get about 5.01v, which I was toldis about right. The wiring diagram I have appears to show that the dash gauge supplies the voltage to the sending unit. I did a continuity test on the ground side of the tank float and it tested good. The only other thing I just remembered would beto ohm out the ground wire to make sure there is no high resistance,which would not show up in the continuity test. I will be doing that test shortly. Would anybody else have any suggessions? Thanks !
 

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First of all, welcome to the forum. Did you try setting your digital meter to a less sensitive ohm range ???If so,may be a bad wiper in the sending unit. Not sure, but I believe there is a seperate voltage regulator for the digital dash to drop the voltage to less than 12vdc so your 5 volts might be ball-park. Keep watching your post, hpoefully you'll get some more responses. Good luck :gunhead:
 

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Wendell wrote:
First of all, since I am new here, I would like to say hello to all on this forum! I am very happy to have found this board!:cheeky1:
Hey Wendell :waving: Welcome to the best Goldwing Forum on the net. :clapper:Would you please include the country that Springfield is in. :stumped:

:leprechaun::18red::leprechaun:
 

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OOPS! :?Sorry about that Redwing! I'm from warm (actually hot & steamy!!) and cheerful (sometimes!) Springfield, Ohio.

Thanks for your reply, Shooter! I'll keep an eye on this posting!
 

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Good man Wendell :leprechaun: Well done. :clapper:

:weightlifter::18red::weightlifter:
 

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I think the gauge has a delay in it's movement to prevent it from bobbing when the gas sloshes around. Don't let this fool you into thinking something is wrongwhen testing.
 

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Hi Wendell. That 5 volt reading sounds about right to me with the digital panel. If the resistance reading is jumpy when you move the float arm up and down it's likely that the wiper or the resistance element in the unit has had it. To test your LCD, measure the resistance of the tank sender with the arm in the full position, I think this will measure out to be 0 ohms. It that's the case you can ground the non-ground lead that goes to the tank sender and should get a full indication on your LCD. If the reading with the arm in the full position has a higher reading you could substitute a resistor of that value for the tank sender and get a full reading on the gauge. By measuring the sender with the arm set for half full or empty you could get a resistor for those values and substitute that for the sender to check out your LCD.
 

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Anybody have any ideas how the low fuel light works? Mine worked until I removed the sender to clean it and adjust the float, nowthe low fuel light doesn't work everything else if fine. Why doesn't the light come on when the sending unit is unpluged. :baffled:
 

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hitechluddite, Did you by chance overadjust the float?
 

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It's entirely possible. When I got the bike it had been sitting for about 3 years with very little use. When I filled the tank my gas gauge stopped 2 bars from the top. It also went to 1 bar with about 2 gallons left. I cleaned the slide contacts and simply held the float rod still as best I could while I bent in down some in order to raise the float. It all worked great, I have all bars now on fillup and I go to 1 bar with about 1 gallon left but I lost the low fuel light. I know it's not working because I ran the bike out on purpose prior to installing a new fuel filter.
 

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I hat to ask a silly question, but is the bulb good? It's been a long time since it's been called upon to light up maybe the socket is a bit scruffy.
 

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All I can say is that it did work before I removed the Sensor.:baffled:I wish the Honda Service manual gave more information on how these systems work. Thanks to this thread I know that 5VDC is supplied to the sensor and that a coresponding voltage drop via the varible resistor in the sensor rather than a simpleresistance reading.
 

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When I fill up to the filler neck, (but not above) my gauge is slow to add the top bar. When I am almost out, I think it has to be to the last bar for a while before the low fuel light comes on.
 

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Thanks to all for the info. When I get my tank back, I'll do further testing. I do know that I need a tank sending unit. I have an 86 float, so maybe I can get that to work. Thanks again!
 

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hi guy's mine is a LTD 1985 and it show's .5 gal when the fuel liyte come"s on good for approx 50 km. on the display....

good luck .....
 

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:clapper::clapper:ALRIGHT!:clapper::clapper:

After checking the gauge cluster and a little afterthought on this matter, I remembered something I have had in the basement for 3-4 years.I hadsome TV tuner cleaner for an old garage stereo and decided to give that a try. I sprayed the holy dickens out of the fueltank sending unitthrough every opening I could find. Man, alot of rust came out!! I let it dry and ohmed it out. The readings stabilized! I hooked it up and by golly the bars gradually made their way to the top! Thanks to everyone for the information! I cannot wait to have'er up and running! Thanks again!

 

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/forums/images/emoticons/sad.gif The low fuel light works on a 25 ohm NTC thermister on the fuel float.. not available from Honda as a separate item ... You can buy the Thermister from any GOOD electronic parts ......its a sort of thermocouple ... but then you have to carefully Solder it in ... Recall you are working around gasoline.. which explodes...especially if there are sparks around ...even 12 volt sparks .............there are several sites which give the part No. of the thermistor, and detail how to install it.. Mine is also broken. I intend to remove it in the winter.. and take the fuel pump assembly to a Quality electronics fabricator to let him have his way with it.. /forums/images/emoticons/sad.gif Do not feel up to doing this myself.../forums/images/emoticons/emoticonsxtra/cooldj.gif SilverDave 
 

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hellooooo mine is a 1985 LTD and i filled up to day with the key and kill swich on and i confirm there is a 15 to 20 seconces delay per pars on the display during fill up .. so be patient during testing your unit.......

good trouble shoot .....
 

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hitechluddite wrote:
Anybody have any ideas how the low fuel light works? Mine worked until I removed the sender to clean it and adjust the float, nowthe low fuel light doesn't work everything else if fine. Why doesn't the light come on when the sending unit is unpluged. :baffled:
I seen this one before, and it was an overbent float arm as johnmac already suggested.
 
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