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Hello folks... I just broke my final drive housing on my 1984Wing installing new shocks. I ordered a used LTD Final Drive. Will it work? Easy fix for an unskilled mechanic? thx, Dave :waving:
 

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Did it break when you were unbolting the shock? That has happened to a couple of members here, it seems the bolt seizes in the hole.
 

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NO, shock was hard to get off(until it broke), then just broke the shock eye. Shock bolt came right out after turning it forever. thx....
 

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Hello and Welcome To the Forum :waving: Not sure how to answer your question , think the final drives should be the same. JB Weld and Duct tape are man's best friend !!!

Opps forgot WD40

Jim
 

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Hello to you Jim, I thought it would work but I did not know? Easy to remove and replace? thx again:thumbsup:
 

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Other than getting the drive shaft back into the ujoint it's a piece of cake.
This is also a good time to check all the splines for wear and lube them with moly paste. Not the moly grease you get at the local parts store but 60% or more moly paste.
 

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thx....does the shaft just pull out of the final drive? and will I have to remove the exhaust? thx soooooo much!
 

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The shaft will likely come out with the final drive but is not part of it and can be removed from the drive.

The exhaust does not need to be removed just the lower shock bolts then with the shocks tied back jack the rear wheel up to remove the axle.
 

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ok, that gives me a much better idea on how it comes apart. Do I have to remover the wheel completely? thx:thumbsup:
 

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dmays wrote:
ok, that gives me a much better idea on how it comes apart. Do I have to remover the wheel completely? thx:thumbsup:
Yes. Either with the drive or before removing it.
 

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LOL....I should put a new tire on while it's off then! Is the shaft for the rear wheel all one piece? So the wheel, final drive and shaft will all need to be removed from the bike and then worked on? kool...I wish we just had a real Honda dealership here. thx sooo much Ken
 

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It's a fairly easy thing to do. I would recommend being very organized as things come off the bike, and pay attention (even take pictures) of the wheel axle and the shims or spacers that are on the axle as they must go back in the same order as they came off.

I would do a search for what you are doing and read up as much as possible. Maybe the "How To" section has something.
 

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thanks....I think it is gonna be too tough for me.
 

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The wheel has to come out, but that isn't a very hard job. It just takes a bit of time. As far as I know, any GL1200 final drive will work.
 

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As mentioned, pay attention to where the spacers go ! When i replaced mine i was leaving/misplaceing one of them and went back and forth with the guy i bought the final drive and wheel from thinking he sent me the wrong wheel. I had to eat a lot a crow with him when i found my mistake. Be sure to check and lube the splines in the drive and wheel, thats why i had to replace mine, previous tire changers failed to do so so it ate up the splines. Be sure to use Honda Moly Paste, i bought mine thru E Bay since, as you , no dealers were near then.
Do you have a shop manual ? If not i can burn a CD i have with several Manuals on it ( Clymer, Haynes, Some Honda ) for you.

Jim
 

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dmays, You can do it! I am originally from WV and I did it. Not too difficult a job. The drive shaft can be pulled out of the final drive. Just yank on it. Put the shaft back into the universal joint and then connect it to the final drive. If you can take photos as you disassemble it, they will be helpful. Luck
Bobby
 

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dmays wrote:
thanks....I think it is gonna be too tough for me.
It's not tough at all, trust me, if this old fat dumbass can do it then I guarantee you can do it.

The spacers are on the axle, different sizes on each side that keep the wheel centered.

You do need to read some of the tips and tricks of it though. One of those was that the final drive comes off with the wheel, do not pry it off. Lay a couple 2x4 on the ground so that they are far enough apart for the tire to hit, but not the drive. The drive needs to be off the floor when laying on the boards about an inch or so. Pick the tire up (with it laying flat) and drop it on the boards. Momentum will pop the drive off. It doesn't take much, as I recall I lifted the tire up maybe 8 inches or so then dropped it with the drive side down, and it came right off.

No other surprises, nothing is going to fall off or out and your not going to be able to figure out how it goes back together, it's really not hard.
 

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rideandslidejim wrote:
As mentioned, pay attention to where the spacers go ! When i replaced mine i was leaving/misplaceing one of them and went back and forth with the guy i bought the final drive and wheel from thinking he sent me the wrong wheel. I had to eat a lot a crow with him when i found my mistake. Be sure to check and lube the splines in the drive and wheel, thats why i had to replace mine, previous tire changers failed to do so so it ate up the splines. Be sure to use Honda Moly Paste, i bought mine thru E Bay since, as you , no dealers were near then.
Do you have a shop manual ? If not i can burn a CD i have with several Manuals on it ( Clymer, Haynes, Some Honda ) for you.

Jim
Hello and thanks jim, does the cd have more info? I might be interested in a copy:cheesygrin: I'am still not sure if I can do it...lol
 

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Everyone is really awesome on here......I have learned more you folks then I ever thought possible.....I will keep everyone in the loop. LOL
 
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