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This issue deserves a new topic, will move your post and mine to
Having problems going into Neutral

1984 GL1200 A
 

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Do any of the lights come on? Did you try pulling in the clutch to start it? The clutch hydraulic system may need to be bled. The clutch itself has nothing to do with the starting problem.
 
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Thanks for starting a new topic for my post. When I turn the key, the red oil indicator does still come on, and usually when things are working properly it's both the green neutral light and the oil light. A previous owner put an GL1100 instrument cluster on it, so there aren't any other lights that activate upon key turn. The blue high beam indicator also lights up if I turn on the high beam.

I tried pulling in the clutch while starting and there was no start. Just silence. The headlight turns off when the start button is pressed, but that's about it.

One thing that I am just noticing is that the clutch feels much softer than the front brake. When I pull the brake, I the lever resists and I can't get it any closer than a half an inch from the handle bar. On the clutch side, there is much less resistance and the lever can easily be compressed so it touches the handle bar. When I do so, I can hear what I'm guessing is the slave cylinder activating, (I had the slave cylinder apart in the summer cleaned it up, and reinstalled).

Should the clutch have the same level of resistance and same feel as the brake? I'm guessing so, but please tell me if not. So Dave, I'll start by bleeding the clutch and see if I can get it feeling more solid. Thanks for telling me that...before potentially needlessly getting into the clutch itself.

I haven't noticed any dot 4 leaking from anywhere, but somehow air must have gotten in the system. I'll report back after the bleeding process. Thanks for your help!
 

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One thing I don't get is that the bike must be in neutral because I can roll it around....but then why won't the neutral indicator light turn on? I've read about the gear sensor sometimes malfunctioning. I'll do the bleeding and see what happens. Thank you.
 

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You could be in a "false" neutral between gears other than 1 and 2 and if he neutral light is not on plus yhe clutch switch not working(relatively common) the starter wont work.


Put it on the centre stand and whilst rocking the back wheel keep moving the gear lever down till it wont go any father then you are in 1st, a small movent up should get neutral, try doing it with ignition on and see if green light works
 

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Yup! It worked...now I'm in neutral and the neutral light works. Now I'm going to examine the slave cylinder for leaks and bleed the clutch fluid. Thanks a lot! I'll let you know how it goes.

-Chris
 

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PS. Should the clutch handle feel the same level of firmness as the bake handle? It hasn't been that way...maybe too soft and therefore not pushing the slave cylinder enough.
 

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PS. Should the clutch handle feel the same level of firmness as the bake handle? It hasn't been that way...maybe too soft and therefore not pushing the slave cylinder enough.
No, the clutch lever should have some resistance from the start but it does go all the way to the bar unlike the brake.
 

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plus the clutch switch not working(relatively common) the starter wont work.
The clutch not working has nothing whatever to do with it not starting. All it does is activate the micro switch when pulled all the way in, will or should do that whether the clutch works or not.
 

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One thing I don't get is that the bike must be in neutral because I can roll it around....but then why won't the neutral indicator light turn on? I've read about the gear sensor sometimes malfunctioning. I'll do the bleeding and see what happens. Thank you.
You have to get a neutral light for the bike to start in neutra;/

Assuming all is well the ground for the neutral light (gear sensor) is also the ground for the starter solenoid. This is a fairly common issue and is usually the sensor or a wiring issue.

Ther solenoid has to have a ground to engage the starter. There are two ways it can be grounded. One is through the neutral signal on the gear sensor and the other is the switch on the clutch. False neutral very rarely happen. It is like flipping a coin and have it stand on end. :oops:
 

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Thank you for your input guys. I bled the clutch and there was in fact a little air in there. I think I've had a slow leak through the site glass window which caused fluid level to go low. But after the bleed, the bike shifted normally and was great out on a test drive (my buddy was driving). The only problem was the small snow flakes that were hitting him. It's already cold up here in Ontario.

Thanks again for your help. This site is awesome.

-Chris
 

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So what was the starting problem?
 

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Hey Mike and Dave. Sorry for the delay...I'm not the type to suck information out of you guys and dash lol. I have way more respect for you seasoned bike owners than that. I may be back in the spring for help, but it better be for a different issue!

The starting problem seemed to be that the bike was not in neutral, but stuck between two other gears. Once I had it jacked up, I put a zip tie around the clutch handle, and was able to get it into 1st gear with my hand while rocking the back wheel. Once it was down there, a small lift of the pedal easily put it into neutral. I had the key turned in the ignition so I saw the green light right away.

The reason I believe I was having the shifting issues was a small amount of air in the clutch lines which meant the slave cylinder wasn't being activated strongly enough. While bleeding out the line, there were some small air bubbles that came out...not too bad, but maybe just enough to cause problems.

And the reason there was air in the system, I think is that a very small leak in the site glass window of the master cylinder allowed the fluid level to go down too far. I believe that is the source of the problem and that's what I'll be fixing.

Man, you really have to become a detective to work on these bikes. I love the problem solving part of it. But, it was you guys on the forum that steered me in the right direction...otherwise who knows what I might have started taking apart and how much time I would have wasted.

Thanks again! I really appreciated it.

-Chris
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
fully understand you guys who live in the land of frost.... puts a stop to just about everything.

appreciate you coming back and explaining what you found so far.
 

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Hey Mike and Dave. Sorry for the delay...I'm not the type to suck information out of you guys and dash lol. I have way more respect for you seasoned bike owners than that. I may be back in the spring for help, but it better be for a different issue!

The starting problem seemed to be that the bike was not in neutral, but stuck between two other gears. Once I had it jacked up, I put a zip tie around the clutch handle, and was able to get it into 1st gear with my hand while rocking the back wheel. Once it was down there, a small lift of the pedal easily put it into neutral. I had the key turned in the ignition so I saw the green light right away.

The reason I believe I was having the shifting issues was a small amount of air in the clutch lines which meant the slave cylinder wasn't being activated strongly enough. While bleeding out the line, there were some small air bubbles that came out...not too bad, but maybe just enough to cause problems.

And the reason there was air in the system, I think is that a very small leak in the site glass window of the master cylinder allowed the fluid level to go down too far. I believe that is the source of the problem and that's what I'll be fixing.

Man, you really have to become a detective to work on these bikes. I love the problem solving part of it. But, it was you guys on the forum that steered me in the right direction...otherwise who knows what I might have started taking apart and how much time I would have wasted.

Thanks again! I really appreciated it.

-Chris
Like John I appreciate the return reply. I think I came off kind of sarcastic and I did not mean it that way.
I think Dave and I both think you have not permanently fixed the issue, though it would be nice.
The reason for the skepticism is because if the transmission is in good shape the odds of getting a "false neutral" are like 1 in 10,000. And it seemed by your description you had a false neutral several times during your troubleshooting.
On the other hand the sensor has a very bad reputation of intermittent failure. My 1500 is starting to act up lately as a matter of fact.
So let me say it this way "respectfully, I think you have an intermittent issue with the gear sensor. It happens to be working now which is common. My bet is it will return to haunt you some day, but I hope not." Even if it does come back you are better prepared to deal with the issue now. :)
 

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Ah I see what you mean, Mike. Well, I'll definitely be better prepared to deal with it if/when it comes back. I'm sure this 1984 beast is not done with other surprises too lol. I'll be back:). Thanks for your assistance!

-Chris
 

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There’s a return hole, very Tiny in the master cylinder that plugs and allows fluid not to get back in the master and then air gets in the line.assure you clear that hole before you try to bleed it again
 
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