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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi All, need some help again.

Decided to take a little ride yesterday, went about 6 miles. She no longer charges properly, even with a new stator and reg/rec. Battery died and I was able to get a jump and charged enough to get back home.

While running, hook up my voltmeter, battery very slowly drains or stays the same, no longer seeing 14+ volts while running. When running, runs like a goldwing should, just a bit of popping through the carbs between 1000-2000 rpms.

The first few start ups after rebuild, was seeing at least 14V while running, so she was charging great. Stator, reg/rec, and battery are brand new.

I'm running 10-40w high quality oil with a little bit of marvel mystery oil. I may have about 1/4 quart too much oil in there - was using the marvel to get the engine nice and clean after 20 years of not running, could that have affected stator?

Stator: https://www.randakks.com/upgraded-stator-for-honda-gl1000-gl1100-and-gl1201.html
reg/rec: https://www.randakks.com/regulator-rectifier-gl1200-gl1100-gl1000.html


It could possibly be a loose connection but doubtful , I'll go over it more thoroughly when I have time.

Any initial ideas/testing procedure/things I could check that might be cause her to randomly stop charging?
 

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I would go back to basics. Check the 3 wires that come from the stator for voltage. Make sure the connections are all good. Troubleshoot it just like you did originally when it quit charging. Unfortunately even new parts can fail prematurely. :)
 

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Check all the connectors from the stator to the regulator for signs of heat. Also recheck the battery and regulator grounds.

Unfortunately, its pretty common for aftermarket stators to last that long. I thought Randall's stuff was better, but maybe not.
 

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I agree with the other comment. Pull the Left side cover & check those 3 yellow wires at the plug. The plug melts & your charging stops. Cut the plug out & sodder them together. cover with heat shrink. Wires do not matter how they are re joined. as long as all 3 are reconnected to the other 3.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'll check the wires more thoroughly this week and let you know my findings.

Really bummed! Ran great for a week.
 

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I've had 3 melted connectors, one after the other that resulted in your symptoms. I finally chucked all the power connectors and installed 30 amp Anderson Power Pole connectors. They don't melt.
 

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Those wires run up to the reg/ref and get burned up under the false tank also, check everything all the way to the reg. The new reg/ref comes with wires that look to small for the load. There is a lot of heat around the reg. If the stator has the right voltage on each leg. with the rpm's up at about 2000 than it is ok. next check the wiring.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Those wires run up to the reg/ref and get burned up under the false tank also, check everything all the way to the reg. The new reg/ref comes with wires that look to small for the load. There is a lot of heat around the reg. If the stator has the right voltage on each leg. with the rpm's up at about 2000 than it is ok. next check the wiring.
Thanks Jerry,

Where should I be connecting my voltmeter to in order to check if the stator has the correct voltage at each leg? The three yellow wires, one at a time? What kind of voltage should I see?
 

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Thanks Jerry,

Where should I be connecting my voltmeter to in order to check if the stator has the correct voltage at each leg? The three yellow wires, one at a time? What kind of voltage should I see?
Assign any of the wires a letter A-B-C in any order. Put the two probes of your voltmeter from A to B then A to C then B to C.
The engine should be running at about 3,000 RPM and the plug unplugged or wires cut if hard wired. You are testing the 3 wires from the stator (engine side) You should see in excess of 50 volts AC. Again that is 50 volts AC. (VAC) That is for all 3 tests. (all 3 legs of the stator))
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Assign any of the wires a letter A-B-C in any order. Put the two probes of your voltmeter from A to B then A to C then B to C.
The engine should be running at about 3,000 RPM and the plug unplugged or wires cut if hard wired. You are testing the 3 wires from the stator (engine side) You should see in excess of 50 volts AC. Again that is 50 volts AC. (VAC) That is for all 3 tests. (all 3 legs of the stator))
Thanks, makes sense now. Will do that check hopefully tomorrow or the next day. I really hope I don't have to pull the engine again.
 

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Man! I hope it ain't that Randakk stator, for your sake and mine.

I've already bought one to use in my newer motor rebuild/change-out project on my 1100.

I think now I'm at least gonna Ohm it out before I commit to it.

Let us know the results of that test.
 

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I hear a lot about stators bound to fail. My 1970 CB750 has 60,000 miles on it and the stator works fine (with an Oregon MC Parts reg and rec). I've had no end of charging problems with the '75 GL1000. I've run all the tests, consulted with a friend who's an electrical engineer and ALWAYS the problem was a melted connector.
Although my advice is more-or-less worthless and I don't know how your electrics compares with mine, here it is: Chuck the Honda regulator and rectifier (in your neighbor's yard if you can throw them that far). Get on ebay and find an FH008EE regulator/rectifier from a CBR600RR and hook it up using Anderson Powerpole Connectors, the 30 amp version. On the '75 the FH008EE bolts to the battery holder without modification. The stock connectors cannot handle the current between the stator and the reg & rec. The Andersons can. I wired in Andersons at every connection involving serious current.
But it's happy hour and I most likely don't know what I'm talking about.

However, as Winston Churchill once said " Yes madam, but tomorrow I shall be sober". So I can furnish pictures and more facts if there's any interest.
 

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one thing about rumors, and bad parts.


we ALWAYS hear about the bad one, and the Biggest Fish ever hooked that got away.


We never hear about all of the good ones that run and run and keep on running forever.


when I got my '02 it had ~97,500 miles on it.
no problems with it at all, but with a 4,000 mile plus rally / vacation trip coming up, and me being alone for a lot of that trip, I took the paranoid route and bought a brand new OEM alternator.


the old one is in the box, and it sits in my Tow Behind bike trailer.... yup, it was still good, and works fine.... but paranoia being what it is, I feel better with a 'new one'...


in one sense, the new one is "better", no dust around the slip rings, and it has brand new bearings.... whoopee...


the '02 now has ~114,000 miles and run like a new one off the show room floor...
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Man! I hope it ain't that Randakk stator, for your sake and mine.

I've already bought one to use in my newer motor rebuild/change-out project on my 1100.

I think now I'm at least gonna Ohm it out before I commit to it.

Let us know the results of that test.
Whelp! Went to do some testing today and the plug from the stator to the main harness is completely melted together! I'm going to guess that's my problem right there.

Going to directly solder and shrink wrap the stator wires and let you know if that's the fix.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I hear a lot about stators bound to fail. My 1970 CB750 has 60,000 miles on it and the stator works fine (with an Oregon MC Parts reg and rec). I've had no end of charging problems with the '75 GL1000. I've run all the tests, consulted with a friend who's an electrical engineer and ALWAYS the problem was a melted connector.
Although my advice is more-or-less worthless and I don't know how your electrics compares with mine, here it is: Chuck the Honda regulator and rectifier (in your neighbor's yard if you can throw them that far). Get on ebay and find an FH008EE regulator/rectifier from a CBR600RR and hook it up using Anderson Powerpole Connectors, the 30 amp version. On the '75 the FH008EE bolts to the battery holder without modification. The stock connectors cannot handle the current between the stator and the reg & rec. The Andersons can. I wired in Andersons at every connection involving serious current.
But it's happy hour and I most likely don't know what I'm talking about.

However, as Winston Churchill once said " Yes madam, but tomorrow I shall be sober". So I can furnish pictures and more facts if there's any interest.
completely melted stator connecter. Going to guess that's my problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I agree with the other comment. Pull the Left side cover & check those 3 yellow wires at the plug. The plug melts & your charging stops. Cut the plug out & sodder them together. cover with heat shrink. Wires do not matter how they are re joined. as long as all 3 are reconnected to the other 3.
Connector is completely melted. Going to solder and shrink wrap.
 

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before you solder it all up, be sure to TEST the windings on the stator.
cut the plug out, then using only the wires from the stator,



mark them A, B, C


then measure the A/C voltage between any two legs, and rotate around the legs, and get all 3 legs written down...


a good stator will produce 50+ VAC at 3,000 rpm.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
before you solder it all up, be sure to TEST the windings on the stator.
cut the plug out, then using only the wires from the stator,



mark them A, B, C


then measure the A/C voltage between any two legs, and rotate around the legs, and get all 3 legs written down...


a good stator will produce 50+ VAC at 3,000 rpm.
Yes definitely will
 
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